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Post by johnjsgems on Jul 6, 2010 19:27:50 GMT -5
I think it would.
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cooknet
starting to spend too much on rocks
Member since February 2009
Posts: 169
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Post by cooknet on Jul 7, 2010 17:51:48 GMT -5
So now, having a 5/8th inch thick shaft, the arbor would be SAFE to hold 4 wheels?? I hope you haven't made anything yet for me cpdad!!
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Post by johnjsgems on Jul 7, 2010 22:20:14 GMT -5
I don't think the 1/2"would have been "unsafe". I think it would be too flimsy and might flex while grinding causing a vibration. I wish I was home to measure my Genie shaft. I think under the 1" shaft adapters the motor shaft is 5/8". Maybe someone here with a Genie can measure the shaft diameter and length with the shaft adapter off. I won't be near mine until August 16 or 17.
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cooknet
starting to spend too much on rocks
Member since February 2009
Posts: 169
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Post by cooknet on Jul 7, 2010 23:47:54 GMT -5
Thanks John for your input on that, it's funny, Canadians must REALLY be hated by the US suppliers, now I got blown off by Kingsly!
I asked them to confirm how the motor was mounted, as I wanted to know before I purchased the arbor, and I sent them pictures and measurements of my motor, to ensure that they could confirm the motor I have would be suitable, it's a normal 1/3hp 1725rpm motor, but I just wanted to make sure.
Here is the reply I got from that email asking if they could confirm the motor I had would fit before I ordered the arbor:
Dear Chris: I would suggest that you contact your local Lortone Dealer...it would be of your best interest. Dan Kingsley North, Inc.
I have to say that since I started out trying to purchase an arbor that I have NEVER had such crappy customer service from these companies, or been blown off SO MANY times as this, can someone please explain WHY these companies feel that they do not benefit from selling equipment to interested people with cash in hand, willing to purchase immediately, with the ONLY thing required is answering a few simple questions about the item?
I cannot believe that they would rather blow me off than answer a stupid question. Either they hate Canadians, or they just feel that they don't need the business.
Screw them all, I'll just put some wheels on the arbor I have and save my money, and put it into wheels, such as John.
Now all I need really is a better, longer shaft, and to just build a housing to keep the water where it should be.
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cooknet
starting to spend too much on rocks
Member since February 2009
Posts: 169
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Post by cooknet on Jul 11, 2010 9:21:12 GMT -5
stop the madness here ;D...just post the length of shaft...length of threads each end....diameter.....and what size tapped hole in end of shaft you would like....and i will make it for you...just pay shipping. if shipping isnt more than you can have 1 made for.....just figured id offer and save you some brain cells ;D....kev Hi Kev, I've sent a PM to you via this message board and also an email to your hotmail address regarding this shaft, haven't hear back from ya, so thought I'd give you a nudge in here in case it isn't coming to you , or ended up in your spam bin! Just wanted to confirm the specs with you as I definitely want the shaft ASAP, thanks! Thanks! Chris
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cooknet
starting to spend too much on rocks
Member since February 2009
Posts: 169
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Post by cooknet on Jul 13, 2010 23:43:47 GMT -5
Ummm....what happened, did I get black listed or something??!!
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cooknet
starting to spend too much on rocks
Member since February 2009
Posts: 169
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Post by cooknet on Jul 15, 2010 9:35:36 GMT -5
cpdad, I'm trying to contact you regarding the shaft you offered to make for me, but I'm getting no reply from your hotmail address, or via this forum, please let me know if you are getting my messages as I'd REALLY like to get that shaft and build my polishing machine !! I know I screwed up on the measurements, and hope I didn't mess up the offer, totally my fault, sorry! If I costed you money because you started making the WRONG size shaft because of my mistake, I'll compensate you for that, no problem! I even don't expect you to make the shaft for free, I'll PAY you I'm so desperate to get this machine built and going!! Thanks!! Chris
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drjo
fully equipped rock polisher
Honduran Opal & DIY Nut
Member since May 2008
Posts: 1,581
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Post by drjo on Jul 15, 2010 20:04:27 GMT -5
Possibly on Vaca... He hasn't been here since the first.
Dr Joe
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cooknet
starting to spend too much on rocks
Member since February 2009
Posts: 169
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Post by cooknet on Jul 15, 2010 22:55:24 GMT -5
Thanks Dr Joe, I was beginning to wonder "why" I wasn't getting a reply from anyone! Chris
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cooknet
starting to spend too much on rocks
Member since February 2009
Posts: 169
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Post by cooknet on Jul 20, 2010 6:44:37 GMT -5
Well, I got the cabbing machine half built now, just waiting on the custom shaft from cpdad and the wheels, which I'll order once it is built and confirmed working properly, I'll post some pictures for you to critique soon I decided to use a length of 6-1/2" PVC tubing with a section cut out of it for the splash guard, as right now metal is too expensive to be an option. It will look good once it all gets a good coat of fisherman's paint! It's the oil based epoxy paint that the fishermen paint their boats with, it's hard, durable, and completely waterproof, and lasts forever. It only comes in glossy. When I lived in Cape Sable island, a small lobster fishing community here in Nova Scotia, I ended up painting my entire house interior with that stuff! It's the ONLY thing that can withstand the tremendous moisture caused by fog and humidity, that virtually rips the paint and paper right off your walls when the house "breathes"! The only thing that I'm still tossed up about is the "EXACT" RPM's to run it at, since it won't have a speed controlled motor (It has a 1725RPM 1/3HP motor attached to it currently), I want to ensure I can set the speed with a pulley ratio at exactly where it should be, so, where is that "Goldilocks zone" when it comes to RPM's for opals? That's what I mainly cut and polish. I get a varying answer whenever I ask this question, so what I'd like to find out is what exact RPM's all the commercial cabbing machines run at, like the Pixie and the Genie, and those ones, and then know what people "prefer" as an RPM, and if they don't like what the commercial ones set their speed at, "why" they don't! Like I said, it's REALLY hard to find any specs like that about those commercially made machines, and I've learned that you pretty much have to "ask" someone about any of the specs, as they just can't be found on the manufacturer's websites, unless I'm blind that is...LOL I'm also hoping to be able to mount a trim saw on the end of the shaft, just for easy access to a blade to trim off small bits and chunks as I cab, which is REALLY convenient, as opposed to having to haul out the saw, fill the reservoir with water, clean it when I'm done, ect ect. So, what RPM would YOU guys run your cabbing machines at?
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Post by johnjsgems on Jul 20, 2010 9:05:05 GMT -5
Genie runs 1725. Barranca 6" machines are 1725 (both pulleys 2"). Older cab machines had multigroove pulleys for speed choice but hard to find and probably not necessary. If you use expanding drums they have a maximum speed (I think 2200 for 6"). The stamped pulleys are relatively inexpensive so motor pulley can be changed if needed but I would use 1725 to start.
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drjo
fully equipped rock polisher
Honduran Opal & DIY Nut
Member since May 2008
Posts: 1,581
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Post by drjo on Jul 20, 2010 9:59:42 GMT -5
Mine's a 2 speed...1725 & 1145 rpm. I like the slower speed when cabbing delicate/difficult pieces plus it develops less heat at point of contact, and just seems to let you take your time cabbing.
I don't like faster when cabbing Opals, too much heat at point of contact and the Opal can crack /craze. Plus your taking material off faster than you can watch it, not a good thing with Opal.
I apprenticed with a Master Lapidarist/Gemologist that was very educated/experienced/particular about the equipment she used.
Dr Joe
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cooknet
starting to spend too much on rocks
Member since February 2009
Posts: 169
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Post by cooknet on Jul 20, 2010 11:13:06 GMT -5
Thanks Jon and Joe for your input and confirmation regarding the speeds od the lapidary units, I really appreciate that! Those are the numbers that I was thinking, and planning on making mine run at, but I've learned to not trust what "I" think is right, and to ask the "pro's" before building, as I've found that it's what you don't even know that you don't even know that makes all the difference! I've had people tell me that they like to run it at around 600RPM even, and also that you MUST have a speed controlled unit, so it's like anything else, it depends on who you ask, I think there is the industry standard ideas about how to cab an opal, and then there are the individual techniques, for which there are many different ones indeed! I tend to like a bit slower cutting myself, with my speed controlled flat lap, I find myself polishing even down around 300RPM sometimes, if I'm REALLY paranoid about a very particular spot on a stone that I just don't want to remove any material that I don't have to. I always use a TON of water, and it's very cold well water from a direct hookup to my lap, you can always tell when I've been cutting due to the huge over-spray all over the floor of the room, hehe. Better that then the stone heating up and cracking or crazing, which I "have" done back in the day when I was first learning to cut. Thanks again guys! Chris
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drjo
fully equipped rock polisher
Honduran Opal & DIY Nut
Member since May 2008
Posts: 1,581
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Post by drjo on Jul 20, 2010 13:14:58 GMT -5
If you want slow/low heat you could try a spool polisher w/diamond paste. Good for Opal & turquoise and other soft stones. Lots of water with Opal is not a bad thing that's for sure, when I mentioned heat at the point of contact it is where the stone heats and cools very quickly, causing micro fractures that make the stone look dull or hazy (just clarifying things for our viewers ). Dr Joe .
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cooknet
starting to spend too much on rocks
Member since February 2009
Posts: 169
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Post by cooknet on Jul 21, 2010 21:33:31 GMT -5
Hi all, I'm trying to figure out now what the best angle is to cut the water guard at. It is basically a 7" diameter PVC pipe that will have a section of it removed, to allow access to the spinning wheel.
Imagine that the 6" diamond wheel is spinning inside of this 7" pipe, and you wanted to cut a hole in it to allow the proper range of motion for the stone to make contact with the polishing wheel, at what angles would you cut it?
I've looked at the guards on some cabbing machines that barely seem to cover the top of the polishing wheel, while others seem to cover the whole top half of the wheel, leaving the entire bottom of the wheel exposed, (As if you were to cut the pipe in half length wise) while still others have the guard wrap around the bottom a bit, so that only about 1/4 of the wheel is exposed. (cutting out 1/4 of the tube length wise, leaving 3/4 of the tube in tact)
What is the best thing to do? I don't want water spraying all over the place, so I'm assuming it's a good idea to have it cover a good portion of the top part of the wheel, pretend you are looking at the wheel in the pipe from the side on, and you overlay a clock dial over it, at what "time" would you cut the first cut at the top of the guard, and then at what time would the next cut be, down around 6 o'clock, or more like 7 or 8? I was guessing that at 3 o'clock would be a good place to make the top cut, which is basically around the top half of the wheel covered if you were to look at it front on. Am i making any sense? It's a hard one to explain without pictures!
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spicer m
spending too much on rocks
Member since October 2008
Posts: 337
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Post by spicer m on Jul 21, 2010 22:36:45 GMT -5
I would start with 6 and 10 a clock. Can always take out more. Can also hang a piece of rubber on the top that rubs on the wheel. Mike
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drjo
fully equipped rock polisher
Honduran Opal & DIY Nut
Member since May 2008
Posts: 1,581
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Post by drjo on Jul 22, 2010 10:38:40 GMT -5
Are you using drip or bubbler / geyser for your water supply? A drip system throws more water out the front than a bubbler.
How about making the shield mounting holes elongated so you can rotate it to the best location for your machine or rock size being worked? That way you could start out with a smaller gap like 6-8 o'clock.
Or you could just get a really good rain slicker ;D
Dr Joe
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Post by jakesrocks on Jul 22, 2010 10:59:19 GMT -5
I think Mike has the best idea. Attach a piece of rubber to the inside of your hood, and let it lightly rest on the wheel. Let it hang down a little lower than the front of your hood. Many older machines used this with good results, and many rockhounds have made this change to newer machines. Maybe just clamp a piece of rubber in place, and see if it will solve your spray problem, before permanently attaching it. Don
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NDK
Cave Dweller
Member since January 2009
Posts: 9,440
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Post by NDK on Jul 22, 2010 20:05:56 GMT -5
Chris, if you gently (and slowly) heat the PVC, it will make it bendable. You could just make a cut down the length, heat it up, and gently bend it to make a visor of sorts. Then if you need to remove any material from the bottom of the cut, do it after.
Nate
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cooknet
starting to spend too much on rocks
Member since February 2009
Posts: 169
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Post by cooknet on Jul 22, 2010 21:50:37 GMT -5
Now see, this is WHY i come here, you guys have GREAT ideas!!
The idea of making the hood so that I can slide it up and down is a great idea, I can cut a slot where the bolts that hold it in place go, instead of just a hole, and it can be adjustable.
what I was most confused about was the need to have any kind of water guard "behind" or at the bottom of the wheel at all, but I guess the less spray anywhere, the better.
I plan on having a drip from above coming down onto the wheel.
I've seen those rubber flaps hitting the wheel, but thought those might have been an after thought in a design, and an attempt to fix something ill designed in the 1st place, and so I thought I'd find out exactly "how" those water guards "should" be, to avoid having to later on stick something in there to correct my flub, and lack of thinking through the design.
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