jamesp
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Post by jamesp on Oct 21, 2013 7:50:46 GMT -5
My bad. I should have specified. I do not want to clean this muck. It stinks so bad I wanna gag after I am done cutting. I needed a solution for disposal. Ima dumbass! I "treated it" with kitty litter and put it in yard waste for compost. Maybe I shoulda grown mushrooms on it. jamesp - nice essay! Thanks. Can you simply peel up the rubbery rock mat and toss it? I peel it using a plastic spatula and put it in a low bucket that sits in the saw. I just remove it from around the bottom of the blade so the rubbery matt is not touching the saw blade at pick up. As long as that oil is clear i am happy. Storing the muck in the saw suites me fine. The less i have to clean it out the less i expose me and the environment to pollution. Why is it that more pollutive solvents and lubricants out perform environmentally safe materials? I use chemical resistant gloves.
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Post by sheltie on Oct 21, 2013 8:26:23 GMT -5
My bad. I should have specified. I do not want to clean this muck. It stinks so bad I wanna gag after I am done cutting. I needed a solution for disposal. Ima dumbass! I "treated it" with kitty litter and put it in yard waste for compost. Maybe I shoulda grown mushrooms on it. jamesp - nice essay! Thanks. Can you simply peel up the rubbery rock mat and toss it? I peel it using a plastic spatula and put it in a low bucket that sits in the saw. I just remove it from around the bottom of the blade so the rubbery matt is not touching the saw blade at pick up. As long as that oil is clear i am happy. Storing the muck in the saw suites me fine. The less i have to clean it out the less i expose me and the environment to pollution. Why is it that more pollutive solvents and lubricants out perform environmentally safe materials? I use chemical resistant gloves. I also use a plastic spatula and rubber gloves. However, I still manage to get as much on me as in the bucket. I clean out the saw all at the same time. The snot goes with the oil and they both filter together. My filtered oil is never clear as it was the day I bought it but it is still fine. My saw is almost completely clean although there are a couple of nooks and crannies that I'm too lazy to completely clean. Then. depending on what I'm slabbing, the snot begins to form at top of the oil level within two to three weeks. I don't let it get too bad, certainly not completely snotty before I clean it out. My best cleaning investment has been the shoulder length vet gloves.
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jamesp
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Post by jamesp on Oct 21, 2013 8:32:49 GMT -5
The gloves are great. Why get that stuff on you? There is no good in it. Sounds like you have a great system.
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Post by sheltie on Oct 21, 2013 15:21:20 GMT -5
The gloves are great. Why get that stuff on you? There is no good in it. Sounds like you have a great system. Actually it is terrible. I'd much rather have a system like Tony (Catmandewe) and some of the others have which use a shop vac but I'm not mechanically inclined enough to put one together. Even better would be the one designed by HP which automatically cleans the oil while the saw is being used. But at $750, it's way down on my priority list right now.
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Deleted
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Post by Deleted on Oct 21, 2013 15:35:14 GMT -5
I wonder if an electric oil pump and a big rig oil filter would clean the oil while we cut. Once clogged replace filter and move on. Mount filter downside up so that when not in use oil flows back into system and is not trapped (lost) inside of oil filter.
My guess is the filters cost too much to be worthwhile. Just checked. They can be had for $25. I wonder how much you could cut for that cost.
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jamesp
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Post by jamesp on Oct 21, 2013 19:18:25 GMT -5
It is a challenging environment at best. I am freaked about the way it compacts in the kerosene oil mix. I am used to the near foam consistency using the Mobil cutting oil.
The Brazilians use diesel fuel . They polish there slabs on a giant sanding belt about 12 inches wide. They put the slab on their fingers and flip it on to the belt holding it down with their fingers and remove it by sliding it towards there chest and off the belt in a quick motion. I think he said it is polished with one grit grade right off the saw. Does not sound possible though.
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Mark K
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Post by Mark K on Oct 21, 2013 19:44:18 GMT -5
I think the oil filters would clog every time. At 25 bucks each I think your cutting would get expensive fast.
But everyone keep thinking like this. Eventually someone will have an idea that is so wonderful that we all are able to make it work. And work well.
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Mark K
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Post by Mark K on Oct 21, 2013 19:56:11 GMT -5
OK, I just had a thought. When I was younger, I worked at a bakery. Guess who cleaned out the doughnut fryer 99% of the time. When I cleaned out the fryer, I would get the oil good and hot and put this filter powder in it. The powder caused the suspended particles to conglomerate and sink to the bottom where they were picked up by the vacuum filter system. I wonder if rough filtering the oil, and then heating it up to french fry temp and then putting this powder in it would work the same way.
Anyone have any thoughts?
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jamesp
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Post by jamesp on Oct 22, 2013 10:56:05 GMT -5
The most common ways to get heavy particles out of oil
-heat allows quicker settlement-that is a good idea- do they sell oil warmers for engines in the way north -vibration can settle particles -a centrifuge but who can afford that -filter
To me, vibration makes the most sense. Because it can be done right in the saw. I thought about clamping or attaching a small motor to the reservoir that would send vibration into the reservoir. A massager or something that vibrates.
I must say that the rock dust is far from compacted and makes the oil real dirty and mucky.
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Post by rockpickerforever on Oct 22, 2013 11:51:16 GMT -5
OK, I just had a thought. When I was younger, I worked at a bakery. Guess who cleaned out the doughnut fryer 99% of the time. When I cleaned out the fryer, I would get the oil good and hot and put this filter powder in it. The powder caused the suspended particles to conglomerate and sink to the bottom where they were picked up by the vacuum filter system. I wonder if rough filtering the oil, and then heating it up to french fry temp and then putting this powder in it would work the same way. Anyone have any thoughts? When you make wine, you use a "fining agent" to clear the wine of sediment. It does just what you said, causing suspended particles to sink to the bottom. Basically, it's a clay. Wonder if clay dust or rock snot from cutting rocks could act as a filter powder? James, maybe that Georgia clay is acting as natural fining agent, settling your oil quickly?
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jamesp
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Post by jamesp on Oct 22, 2013 12:21:13 GMT -5
It is the kerosene /motor oil mix for sure. I used Covington 'Rock Hound Oil' (Mobil cutting oil)for years and it stayed with suspended particles. It never had a compacted paste in the bottom of the saw as dense as i get with the kerosene..
But the technology you are discussing is exactly the problem with particles in the oil. There is no telling how much rock dust is in the bottom of my saw. And it is no threat because it is in a dense paste.
I want to try a vibrating particle settling devise.
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Post by rockpickerforever on Oct 22, 2013 13:31:58 GMT -5
How does the viscosity compare between the kerosene/motor oil mix and the Covington oil? I'd guess the kerosene mixture is thinner? That would allow the the suspended particles to settle more quickly. And certainly, temperature/time of year would also come into play.
What you need, James, is something like the vibrolap I picked up earlier this year. But while I would think the reciprocating action can help settle it, at what point does it agitate and mix it up, like a paint machine at Home Depot?
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Mark K
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Post by Mark K on Oct 22, 2013 14:54:58 GMT -5
OK, I just had a thought. When I was younger, I worked at a bakery. Guess who cleaned out the doughnut fryer 99% of the time. When I cleaned out the fryer, I would get the oil good and hot and put this filter powder in it. The powder caused the suspended particles to conglomerate and sink to the bottom where they were picked up by the vacuum filter system. I wonder if rough filtering the oil, and then heating it up to french fry temp and then putting this powder in it would work the same way. Anyone have any thoughts? When you make wine, you use a "fining agent" to clear the wine of sediment. It does just what you said, causing suspended particles to sink to the bottom. Basically, it's a clay. Wonder if clay dust or rock snot from cutting rocks could act as a filter powder? James, maybe that Georgia clay is acting as natural fining agent, settling your oil quickly? The filter powder is a type of clay. Diatomacious clay.
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Mark K
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Post by Mark K on Oct 23, 2013 11:17:15 GMT -5
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jamesp
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Post by jamesp on Oct 23, 2013 12:42:42 GMT -5
That is what it is? Diatomaceous, cool.
I tell you Jean, it is about the same. It is a mix though 75% kerosene and 25 % 10W-40 motor oil.
Of course the lighter the oil the more likely the particles to settle. Surfactants are used w/herbicides that 'lubricate' the liquid by playing w/adhesion. I think the surfactants are more absorbable and may be more likely to absorb into skin. And the higher flash point of kerosene makes it a liability to use for cutting fluid. But compare super high flash point acetone to the performance of low flash point solvents and acetone makes them look very poor. So, i think there are several factors at play. But for some reason cutting oil is way more expensive. I am guessing the cost is due to it's commonly coming in contact w/humans. And lower flash point requirements. AC current vibration at 60 Hz would be an excellent on off vibration to try. Like a buzzing solenoid. Or an A/C electric magnet that could be magnetically stuck to the bottom of the same for a few hours a week.
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Post by rockpickerforever on Oct 23, 2013 13:40:16 GMT -5
James, diatomaceous earth is the white powder used in swimming pool filters. It is composed of the (limestone) skeletons of diatoms. For fining wine, they use something called bentonite clay.
From wiki
I had no idea that they could be used in oils.
From wiki answers Funny that they say you should only use the filtered oil for fuel in your bio-diesel vehicle. Not safe for human consumption? What I remember is that it is gritty.
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Deleted
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Post by Deleted on Oct 23, 2013 14:01:26 GMT -5
If it's filtered its filtered, right? Not food grade after filtered?
Diatomaceous earth contaminates?
Then I don't want that abrasive in my engine either. Putting oil on the garden runs against my instincts too. I don't like that wiki-answer.
Sorry Jean!
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Post by rockpickerforever on Oct 23, 2013 14:06:49 GMT -5
That's okay, Scott. I had that same thought.
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Deleted
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Post by Deleted on Oct 23, 2013 14:10:36 GMT -5
OK, good, glad we still friends!
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jamesp
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Post by jamesp on Oct 23, 2013 14:15:23 GMT -5
Oil in the dirt is not good for even Joe Dirt, my cousin.
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