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Post by 1dave on Jan 26, 2014 11:37:27 GMT -5
Rather than move the blade, I drilled and tapped some holes in my saw table, cut matching slots in some scrap plexiglass, attached it and slid it over so it just misses the blade. No way a slab will slip through and fall down into the reservoir.
A similar piece under the stone in the vise makes sure you have the proper bottom clearance.
Most threaded rod is 8 threads per inch, so one full crank will advance the vise 1/8". Don't forget the kerf - the width of the blade when calculating how wide you want your slabs.
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robsrockshop
has rocks in the head
Member since August 2012
Posts: 715
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Post by robsrockshop on Jan 26, 2014 11:57:05 GMT -5
Pretty easy to see why this model was discontinued when you compare it's construction to the LS12. I'm speaking in favor of the LS10.
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GeorgeStoneStore
starting to spend too much on rocks
Member since November 2011
Posts: 168
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Post by GeorgeStoneStore on Jan 26, 2014 12:09:36 GMT -5
I look at pictures and drawings .... Unfortunately, the photo is very deceptive Well I do not know. but it seems to me have slightly tilted mechanics 052-10 will be two screws at each end. need to look at screw loosened, and rotated the unit as a whole. We must strive to vise upper plate, right angle the saw blade.
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jamesp
Cave Dweller
Member since October 2012
Posts: 36,560
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Post by jamesp on Jan 26, 2014 13:29:17 GMT -5
I look at pictures and drawings .... Unfortunately, the photo is very deceptive Well I do not know. but it seems to me have slightly tilted mechanics 052-10 will be two screws at each end. need to look at screw loosened, and rotated the unit as a whole. We must strive to vise upper plate, right angle the saw blade.[/quote Look at bracket 52-07. It has 3 screws. Look at plate 52-106 yoke lower right. Look at shaft 52-16(lower shaft). Look at rust on 52-16 in photos 2nd page. No bushing to wipe clean... Is middle screw (with lock nut) on bracket 52-07 for adjusting plate 52-106 parallel to saw blade by swinging on top guide shaft ? See hole in plate 52-106 between yokes. To left of plate 52-106 is counter adjustment screw (with lock nut) for lower shaft 52-16.?
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GeorgeStoneStore
starting to spend too much on rocks
Member since November 2011
Posts: 168
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Post by GeorgeStoneStore on Jan 26, 2014 14:08:47 GMT -5
""Is middle screw (with lock nut) on bracket 52-07 for adjusting plate 52-106 parallel to saw blade by swinging on top guide shaft ?""
Yes, can set parallelism here.
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jamesp
Cave Dweller
Member since October 2012
Posts: 36,560
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Post by jamesp on Jan 26, 2014 14:19:50 GMT -5
""Is middle screw (with lock nut) on bracket 52-07 for adjusting plate 52-106 parallel to saw blade by swinging on top guide shaft ?""Yes, can set parallelism here. I do not understand how feed screw moves with this parallel adjustment. Must have floating feed screw nut....
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GeorgeStoneStore
starting to spend too much on rocks
Member since November 2011
Posts: 168
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Post by GeorgeStoneStore on Jan 26, 2014 14:29:34 GMT -5
obviously there is another twist in opposite directions ( schematic diagrams seems to bore)
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QuailRiver
fully equipped rock polisher
Member since May 2008
Posts: 1,640
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Post by QuailRiver on Jan 26, 2014 15:09:36 GMT -5
Donnie, In your last group of photos, especially in the 5th and 6th photo I am seeing something that disturbs me. It may just be the camera angle but it appears that the left end of the Upper Cross Feed Rod (part 052-06) isn't going to clear the blade Arbor Nut (part 481-57). If when your vise carriage is slid forward, the left end of that upper cross feed rod is hitting the blade arbor nut then the blade arbor definitely needs to be moved to the left. Otherwise your powerfeed system could be damaged. Also moving the blade arbor to the left will help prevent your slabs from falling and getting hung between the blade and the table edge. To move the blade arbor to the left you would tilt the saw back to where you can see underneath the saw where the bearings are. There will be two set collars mounted on the arbor in between the bearings (one each mounted next to each of the two bearings). With the proper sized Allen wrench loosen the set screws on the set collars. And with a rubber mallet or a block of soft wood gently tap the nut end of the arbor to move the blade away from the end of the Upper Cross Feed Rod. When the arbor has been moved left far enough that the Upper Power Feed Rod can pass by the blade arbor nut without touching it, just make sure that it hasn't been moved too far too the left and that the blade doesn't scrub the edge of the table. Usually there should be about a 1/16" gap between the left side of the blade and the table edge to the left of the blade. Once you have the arbor adjusted to where you wan it you can re-tighten the set collars. But first make sure the set collars are against the inside edge of the bearings, and with the Allen wrench re-tighten the set screws in the set collars. Larry C.
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Post by Donnie's Rocky Treasures on Jan 26, 2014 16:50:06 GMT -5
Larry, you are so right & that is the first thing that will be taken care of. However instead of moving the blade arbor I am going to put the felt washer thing that was in there when I took the arbor out, back in, after I split it in half (make it thinner) & that will fix that part of it.
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Post by Donnie's Rocky Treasures on Jan 26, 2014 18:38:07 GMT -5
All is good. Turn out we just needed to turn that triangular plate on the outside for those rods & that straighten the whole thing out. Got the blade moved back some so the blade nut is cleared. Tomorrow I will check it all out again & put an easy to cut rock in for a test run.
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QuailRiver
fully equipped rock polisher
Member since May 2008
Posts: 1,640
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Post by QuailRiver on Jan 26, 2014 18:48:18 GMT -5
If installed correctly the felt washer would have no bearing on the positioning of the arbor. The felt washer is just supposed to block oil and slurry from spraying out around the hole in the saw housing where the arbor passes through. The felt washer isn't meant to be a spacer. The set collars on the arbor located between, and next to the bearings are what act as stop collars to hold the arbor at the proper location. Larry C.
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QuailRiver
fully equipped rock polisher
Member since May 2008
Posts: 1,640
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Post by QuailRiver on Jan 26, 2014 18:55:32 GMT -5
Would it be possible for you to tilt the saw on it's back and take a couple of photos of the bottom where the bearings and arbor assembly are so we can see if the guy who did the refurb put them back on correctly? Larry C.
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Post by Donnie's Rocky Treasures on Jan 26, 2014 19:50:52 GMT -5
Actually, I did that part of it & my cousin helped me. When I got the saw it needed a little fine tuning & a new shaft & bearings was part of it. I will see what I can do about that picture. I put the bearings on the same way the old ones were put on. Tomorrow is another day & I will be able to do more in the daylight.
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Post by Donnie's Rocky Treasures on Jan 26, 2014 20:02:46 GMT -5
By the way, Larry, we undid the set screws on the bearings as you said & moved the shaft to the left enough for clearance. Couldn't get the 1/16" but I got 1/8" & that will work just fine. I didn't bother with the felt washer.
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kaldorlon
spending too much on rocks
Member since October 2013
Posts: 413
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Post by kaldorlon on Jan 26, 2014 20:29:20 GMT -5
You mean you aren't fixing this my candlelight, when all these MacGyver's can't want to help out? .... :-)
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Post by Donnie's Rocky Treasures on Jan 26, 2014 21:07:53 GMT -5
Heck no! I can't see as good as I used to & that goes double for anything having to do with candlelight! Hate those dim restaurants!!!!
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Post by phil on Jan 26, 2014 22:43:35 GMT -5
Did you realign the arbor to the trolly when you replaced it?
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Post by 1dave on Jan 27, 2014 2:49:04 GMT -5
The GOOD NEWS, now you will really know your saw and will be prepared for any problems that come down the road.
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Post by Donnie's Rocky Treasures on Jan 27, 2014 5:56:25 GMT -5
Thanks for reminding me Phil, no I have not done that yet. I will check that before I put a rock in there to cut.
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jamesp
Cave Dweller
Member since October 2012
Posts: 36,560
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Post by jamesp on Jan 27, 2014 8:50:44 GMT -5
I sawed coral specimens in half for years Donnie. It was the only job my 18 inch saw had. And i had to polish the faces. So i could not have saw marks. It took a long while before i learned to adjust the saw to cut dead straight. The saw you have is a bit complex like mine. But it allows for good cuts. I hope it stays adjusted once you dial it in.
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