|
|
Post by Donnie's Rocky Treasures on Mar 19, 2014 7:29:14 GMT -5
Here is the used flat lap I got. I tried using JB Weld to reattach the leg, but the putty wouldn't stick so I used super glue. Seems pretty secure for the time being. I am probably going to replace at least one of the belts because it looks kind of frayed but how do I put the other one on the motor pulley?  The inside. I know the spot with the hole is the drain but what about the area at the top with the wing nut? What is that for? Is that nut to the left supposed to be loosened to move that arm there on the left so I can put the belt on the motor pulley? Should I be greasing or doing any kind of lubrication before I use this thing & if so, what do I use & where?  I actually found a name on it, does anyone recognize the brand? I couldn't find any info online.  Bottom  Top of motor  Bottom of motor - see that stuff falling apart, does it serve a purpose? Like maybe for some kind of cushioning or something? I have some gasket material just exactly the right size I could use there, both a fiber type & a rubber type.  The way the switch is wired  I just want to make sure all these little details are taken care of before I start using it. The motor runs quiet & smooth & I have some laps to use on it, although I will probably get more or maybe even switch to something different, like magnetic so I could have a smooth top. |
|
|
|
Post by roy on Mar 19, 2014 9:26:52 GMT -5
if you take the piece off the bottom and send it with the leg i can weld it back together for you jb weld wont work! the part under the motor is a just a cover
|
|
|
|
Post by Donnie's Rocky Treasures on Mar 19, 2014 13:54:55 GMT -5
You don't think the super glue will hold it, Roy?
|
|
|
|
Post by jakesrocks on Mar 19, 2014 14:26:50 GMT -5
Donnie, if Roy can weld that leg for you, let him do it. You'll be happy you did. Super glue probably won't hold for long.
That fiber looking stuff was probably added by a previous owner as a way to reduce noise. Use the rubber you have and replace all 4 corners. Bolting the machine to a bench without some sort of cushion will only amplify and motor or grinding noise.
I would suggest adding a ground wire to the motor, and using a grounded plug. It shouldn't take more than a few minutes to make that safety fix. Without the ground you run the risk of lighting up like a Christmas tree.
|
|
|
|
Post by Donnie's Rocky Treasures on Mar 19, 2014 14:35:52 GMT -5
Thank you, Don. I already have a grounded plug for it, it just needs to be spliced in, which I don't know how to do! Don't know how to do the ground wire either but I might be able to figure it out. I will try to get that leg off again, had trouble with it before.
|
|
|
|
Post by jakesrocks on Mar 19, 2014 16:23:52 GMT -5
Donnie, on either end of the box on your motor that the wires connect to, there should be a screw hole. Find a screw to fit one of the holes and attach a green ground wire there. On your power switch there should be a green screw on one end. Attach the motor ground to that screw. Run a second longer green wire from that screw to your plug. There should be a green screw in the plug to attach it to. There will also be a silver and a gold screw in the plug. White wire to the silver screw. Red wire to the gold screw.
|
|
|
|
Post by Donnie's Rocky Treasures on Mar 19, 2014 17:35:53 GMT -5
A couple pics of where the wires attach to on the motor.   I should be able to go to Radio Shack to get wires, right? I want to replace the wires anyway. |
|
|
|
Post by jakesrocks on Mar 19, 2014 18:28:51 GMT -5
Radio Shack should have them. Also any auto parts store. Do you have the crimp on connectors for them ? Use 14 gage wire. You might also want to replace the power cord. I always salvage the heavy duty cords from washing machines, dryers and air conditioners. They already have the 3 prong plug attached. Any appliance store will probably let you remove a cord from one of their junk machines for free. If you can find an old motor, remove the wiring cover and screws to use on your motor. I see some corrosion in your last pics, from water spray getting into the connection box. Water may short out your motor.
|
|
stephent
starting to spend too much on rocks
Member since March 2014
Posts: 213 
|
Post by stephent on Mar 19, 2014 18:35:12 GMT -5
Got to your local hardware or home center to get wire (cord!!).. Either a piece of #16 or #14 SO or SJ cord (and it may have other letters after the SO or SJ) and it's weather and water "resistant" with a tough! outer jacket ... 3 conductors in a cord. Cheaper then Radio Shack. And will be far more "legal" then individual wires.
|
|
|
|
Post by Donnie's Rocky Treasures on Mar 19, 2014 19:31:19 GMT -5
Thank you all very much for the information. I do have a new power cord for it already, a nice heavy duty one. I will round up the wires & connectors & Roy I will get that leg off of there & take you up on the welding.
|
|
|
|
Post by jakesrocks on Mar 19, 2014 22:11:45 GMT -5
Let us see how it looks when you get it finished. It looks like there's enough room in there to go to the next size larger lap. Many of those old flat machines were made with a saw attachment. I suspect that's what the wing nut in the tank is for.
Donnie, if you can get all 4 legs off without breaking something, put a little anti seize compound on each screw. It'll make it much easier to take apart next time.
Also, I don't see a grease fitting for the arbor bushings. It might be a good idea to have it drilled and tapped for a grease fitting.
|
|
Fossilman
Cave Dweller 
Member since January 2009
Posts: 20,718
|
Post by Fossilman on Mar 20, 2014 9:50:08 GMT -5
Thumbs up you all!!!
|
|
|
|
Post by Donnie's Rocky Treasures on Mar 20, 2014 9:57:45 GMT -5
Took the master plate or whatever you call it, off & took a picture. Is the hole for grease or whatever lube? If so, what kind would I use? Also do I need to do any kind of cleaning first? Also, Don what would you consider "anti-seize" compound? I also just discovered that I can pull that post there in the center up & down.  |
|
|
|
Post by jakesrocks on Mar 20, 2014 15:36:35 GMT -5
Donnie, that hole may have had a grease fitting in it at one time. Take a toothpic or something and try cleaning it out. If it's threaded, it probably had a grease fitting. It's also possible that the old grease fitting is broken off in the hole. If that's the case, the old fitting can be removed with something called an Easy Out. It's a tool with a reverse spiral. Turn it into the hole like you're trying to remove a nut. The reverse spiral will take a bite inside the broken fitting and screw it right out. Get a new grease fitting at an auto parts store and replace it. There are different thread size grease fittings, so take the piece you remove with you. They're commonly called a Zerk fitting.
You'll need a grease gun to put fresh grease in the arbor. You can buy a small, inexpensive one at most hardware stores. They take a grease cartridge. Get plain old bearing grease.
Anti Seize compound is just that. Ask for a tube at the auto parts store. It'll either come in a squeeze tube like a tooth paste tube, or a small bottle with a brush in the lid. Get the smallest amount that you can. A little goes a long way. Just a tiny amount on threaded parts is all you need. Use it on any nuts or bolts which may rust or corrode.
|
|
|
|
Post by Donnie's Rocky Treasures on Mar 21, 2014 11:55:18 GMT -5
There is no way to get that screw undone on any of the legs. It loosens slightly to where you can move the leg slightly from side to side & that is it. On the hole for lub.................here's pictures Remember I said I could move the shaft up? Here it is down  Here it is up...the part at the top is where that hole is, it's solid underneath.  Another view from underneath - shaft up  shaft down  I do not know what is what here. |
|
|
|
Post by jakesrocks on Mar 21, 2014 12:05:49 GMT -5
|
|
|
|
Post by Donnie's Rocky Treasures on Mar 21, 2014 12:18:31 GMT -5
What bottom bearing?
|
|
|
|
Post by jakesrocks on Mar 21, 2014 12:30:41 GMT -5
There should be a bearing in the bottom, just like the top. Unless they used a ball bearing at the top, and a bronze bushing at the bottom. Anyway. slide the locking collar up from the bottom until it almost touches the bottom bearing / bushing, and lock it down with the set screw.
Dang Donnie, if you lived up here, we'd have that thing running already. I have most of the needed tools and parts.
|
|
|
|
Post by Donnie's Rocky Treasures on Mar 21, 2014 12:40:35 GMT -5
So I should replace the bearings? When I move the shaft I would be happier if it sounded smoother. It sounds a little scrapey to me. Is this the other bearing, underneath? How in the heck am I supposed to get them out, if I am going to replace them?  I am thinking that I need to spray all the connections down with ? (can't remember the name of it)take it apart & clean everything up, etc. |
|
|
|
Post by jakesrocks on Mar 21, 2014 13:00:30 GMT -5
Yup, you have ball bearings top and bottom. That's a good thing.
If you have a long screwdriver, hold the blade against the top bearing. put your ear to the handle and turn the shaft. Do the same for both bearings. If you have a bad bearing, you should be able to hear it through the screwdriver. Sort of like a poor mans doctors stethescope. If one of the bearings is bad, you'll have to take the machine to a machine shop to get the bad bearing pulled,and a new one pressed in place. Remove the arbor shaft at home before doing that. It'll save the cost of the machine shop removing it.
The bearings have a number stamped in them. You'll be able to get a new exact replacement bearing using that number.
|
|
