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spiritstone
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Purplpixie Dec 7, 2014 20:57:58 GMT -5

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Post by spiritstone on Dec 7, 2014 20:57:58 GMT -5

Is there any chance of some kind of test to determine what was heat treated when you look at a rock in a natural state or even cut, without all the fancy equipment to test for this? I had the thought cross my mind over a couple rocks I purchased online.

Thanks.

because as we know, there are known knowns; there are things we know we know. We also know there are known unknowns; that is to say we know there are some things we do not know. But there are also unknown unknowns -- the ones we don't know we don't know.

glennz01
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Purplpixie Dec 7, 2014 21:02:35 GMT -5 spiritstone likes this

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Post by glennz01 on Dec 7, 2014 21:02:35 GMT -5

Dec 7, 2014 20:57:58 GMT -5 spiritstone said:

Is there any chance of some kind of test to determine what was heat treated when you look at a rock in a natural state or even cut, without all the fancy equipment to test for this? I had the thought cross my mind over a couple rocks I purchased online.

Thanks.

The only method I know is is to cross examine the rock with other rocks of the same material known not to be heat treated. The reds usually tend to stand out... Also on large rocks the inside is usually not "treated" where the colors would have changed. Also the rock tends to break easier.

My website: www.alaskanlapidary.com
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spiritstone
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Purplpixie Dec 7, 2014 21:12:39 GMT -5

Quote

Post by spiritstone on Dec 7, 2014 21:12:39 GMT -5

Dec 7, 2014 21:02:35 GMT -5 glennz01 said:

Dec 7, 2014 20:57:58 GMT -5 spiritstone said:

Is there any chance of some kind of test to determine what was heat treated when you look at a rock in a natural state or even cut, without all the fancy equipment to test for this? I had the thought cross my mind over a couple rocks I purchased online.

Thanks.

The only method I know is is to cross examine the rock with other rocks of the same material known not to be heat treated. The reds usually tend to stand out... Also on large rocks the inside is usually not "treated" where the colors would have changed. Also the rock tends to break easier.

I understand this would work fine on some stone. There are others with just slight variations in shades of color that this concept would not work for. Has to be some other type of indicators showing, maybe?

because as we know, there are known knowns; there are things we know we know. We also know there are known unknowns; that is to say we know there are some things we do not know. But there are also unknown unknowns -- the ones we don't know we don't know.

jamesp
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Purplpixie Dec 8, 2014 9:11:39 GMT -5

Quote

Post by jamesp on Dec 8, 2014 9:11:39 GMT -5

Dec 7, 2014 21:12:39 GMT -5 spiritstone said:

Dec 7, 2014 21:02:35 GMT -5 glennz01 said:

The only method I know is is to cross examine the rock with other rocks of the same material known not to be heat treated. The reds usually tend to stand out... Also on large rocks the inside is usually not "treated" where the colors would have changed. Also the rock tends to break easier.

I understand this would work fine on some stone. There are others with just slight variations in shades of color that this concept would not work for. Has to be some other type of indicators showing, maybe?

Yes spirit. Liberal color. Pock marks. Chippability. Location of rock. Debitage.

Liberal color is not always liberal after cooking. So true.

All silicified agates and cherts chip much easier than unheated. Chip suspect rock and chip one most likely not heated. Compare chippability.
Not to mention, the fracture face will be much smoother on the cooked rock than the uncooked rock.

Lots of native heat treatments were done with 2-4 inches of sand on top of the rocks, camp fire on top, like potatoes in aluminum foil.
The rocks toward the top get too hot. Pocks, intense fractures, intense color, is a dead giveaway. Shattered rich colored chips often in soil everywhere.
Us modern guys use furnaces that do not have such intense hot spots, avoiding spoilage. I love to cook them in the sand, until a wind blows up
and raises the heat too rapidly. Faster than 100F per 1-2 hours heating or cooling will blow up your rocks. Moisture must escape slowly.

Location is big. For instance, coral is in the river. If it is sitting up on the bluff it was carried up there-most likely. If it was carried up there-great.
You may find artifacts-start looking !! If you find chip debris(debitage) give rebel yell, you likely found a native camp. Study the debitage, high speed
knapping chips are thin, about for sure man chipped. Forest fires can simulate same situation-beware(rock under soil, heated by forest fire). usually
there is a mass of overheated rocks laying around everywhere in such case.

Check out these photos of heat treated Savannah River agate.
Heat treated chips collected from a clear cut exposed native camp. Such beautiful material is almost impossible to find at source.
Natives found their rock veins. They could have handed these locations down for 100 generations. We hang in offices and buildings, they
hang outside where the rock veins are. No telling where their sources are, or how long they have handed down their honey holes generation after generation.
All greens and reds hardly occur in this rock lest it be heated. I know this rock. Have collected it for years. Check em out:

www.flickr.com/photos/67205364@N06/sets/72157632569773602

Last Edit: Dec 8, 2014 9:16:10 GMT -5 by jamesp

Deleted Deleted Member Member since January 1970 Posts: 0	Purplpixie Dec 8, 2014 12:43:15 GMT -5 Quote Select Post Deselect Post Link to Post Member Give Gift Back to Top Post by Deleted on Dec 8, 2014 12:43:15 GMT -5 holy cow, so now you have Cady's Mtn Moss Agate Fossilized Corals Still waiting on the crazy lace.

spiritstone
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Purplpixie Dec 8, 2014 13:10:25 GMT -5 unclesoska likes this

Quote

Post by spiritstone on Dec 8, 2014 13:10:25 GMT -5

Does the heat treating work on any agate to enhance color. I have a few disdero I was thinking to give it a shot on and see if I could get the same results. Two to four inches under the sand sounds like something I'm going to try when the ground thaws The corals you heat surprise me on how much change can take place.Thanks for the link with the agate pics, so red and green is uncommon until heated in these agates.
Why i was asking is I have a Oregon carnellian that had crossed my mind if it was heated or not. The color is already extreme and it made me wonder.
Thank you.

Watched a few vids on heat treating and found this one on melting obsidian. I could see you coming up with something home made like this.

Last Edit: Dec 8, 2014 13:24:49 GMT -5 by spiritstone

because as we know, there are known knowns; there are things we know we know. We also know there are known unknowns; that is to say we know there are some things we do not know. But there are also unknown unknowns -- the ones we don't know we don't know.

jamesp
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Purplpixie Dec 9, 2014 18:36:15 GMT -5 spiritstone likes this

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Post by jamesp on Dec 9, 2014 18:36:15 GMT -5

Dec 8, 2014 13:10:25 GMT -5 spiritstone said:

Does the heat treating work on any agate to enhance color. I have a few disdero I was thinking to give it a shot on and see if I could get the same results. Two to four inches under the sand sounds like something I'm going to try when the ground thaws The corals you heat surprise me on how much change can take place.Thanks for the link with the agate pics, so red and green is uncommon until heated in these agates.
Why i was asking is I have a Oregon carnellian that had crossed my mind if it was heated or not. The color is already extreme and it made me wonder.
Thank you.

Watched a few vids on heat treating and found this one on melting obsidian. I could see you coming up with something home made like this.

Some dope on heat treating spirit

www.dances-with-snakes.com/recipes.htm

A few materials

Rock Description/Name (Alphabetical) Preform Thickness Max. Temp. Special Instructions/Comments

Agatized palm wood, translucent (Texas) Slab <.25" 450-500 Beautiful!
Alibates Flint, various colors (Texas) Biface <1" 500
Allendale (Briar Creek) Agate (S. Carolina) Biface <.5" 500 Gets red highlites with heating
Amethyst agate, purple w/dendrites (Nevada) Slab <.25" 350-450 Incredible!
Arizona petrified wood Slab <.25" 500
Battle Mountain Jasper, white to tan (Nevada) Slab <.5" 500-600
Battle Mountain Jasper, white to purple (Nevada) Spalls <1" 550-650
Biggs Jasper, dark brown, smooth (Oregon) Biface <1.25" 450 Nice gloss
Biggs Jasper, with pattern (Oregon) Slab <.8" 550
Biggs Jasper, massive gray/brown (Oregon) Slab <.8" 600
Blackskin Agate (India) Slab <.25" 550
Bloodstone, green and red (India) Slab <.3" 550
Boone Chert, gray (Missouri) Spall/biface <.25" 550
Brandon Flint (England) Slab or spall <.4" 500 Thicker pieces will potlid
Brazilian agate, red to white Slab <.4" 600-650
Brazilian agate, white to brown Slab <.4" 500
Brazos River Flint Cobble (Texas) Slab or biface <2" 600
Bruneau Jasper (Idaho) Slab or end <.5" 600-700
Buffalo River Chert, tan (Tennessee) Spall <2" 600
Burlington Chert (Illinois) Bifaces 575-650 Hold max temperature for 72 hours
Burro Creek Jasp-Agate, purple (Arizona) Slab <.25" 550
Butterscotch Flint (Georgia Coastal Plain) Slabs < 0.5" 450-500 a.k.a. Flint River
Carnelian Agate (Oregon) Thick pieces 500
Carnelian Agate (Oregon) Slab <.25" 575 Red color increases with hold time
Chert, tan (Kentucky) Biface <1.5" 600
Cobden Flint (Illinois) Thin spall 500
Devine Terrace Flint, chocolate color (Texas) Biface <1" 350-450 Long drying time, gloss
Devine Terrace Flint, tan (Texas) Spall <.8" 400-450 Long drying time, satin finish
Flint Ridge Chalcedony, gray (Ohio) Biface <1.5" 550
Flint Ridge Chalcedony, gray (Ohio) Slab <.25" 650
Flint Ridge Chert (Ohio) Slab or biface <1" 600
Flint Ridge Chert, orange, (Ohio) Slab <.3" 650
Florida Agatized Coral Slab <1" 650
Fort Hood Flint, tan (Texas) Slab or biface <2" 600
Fort Hood Flint, gray (Texas) Biface <2" 500
Fort Payne Chert, brown to tan (Tennessee) Biface <1.5" 600
Georgetown Flint, gray, grainy (Texas) Biface <1" 400
Hornstone, Indiana or Kentucky Spalls and bifaces N/A No heating needed
Idaho Picture Jasper Slab <.4" 650
Imperial Jasper, red or green (Mexico) Slab <.3" 500-700
Imperial Jasper (Mexico nodular form) Slab <.3" 650
India Blackskin Agate Slab <.25" 550
India Fancy Jasper, red (India) Slab <.3" 500
India Fancy Jasper, pink and green (India) Slab <.3" 550
Jasper, mottled brown Slab <.6" 500 Long hold times produce color change to red
Jasper, black Slab or spall >.5" 500
Jasper, dark chocolate brown Slab <1" 500
Jasper, banded purple and gray Slab <.4" 600
Jasper, red Slab <.5" 400-500
Jasper, striped brown and red Slab <.6" 400-500
Kaolin, brown to red, somewhat grainy (Illinois) Slab <.5" 550-630 Color intensified with heating
Kaolin, brown to white, smooth (Illinois) Slab <.3" 600 Color change when heated
Knife River Flint (N. Dakota) Slab <.3" 500
Knife River Flint (ND) Slab or spall >.3" 400
Knife River Flint (ND) Chunks 350 CAREFUL! Potlids easily!
Kornthal Chert, gray to orange (Illinois) Biface <1" 600
Llano River Flint, red and brown (Texas) Bifaces to 1.5" 350-400 48 hr drying time
Llano River Flint, pale tan (Texas) Bifaces to 1.5" 500 48 hr drying time
Maury Mtn. Jasper (Oregon) Slab <.5" 500
Maury Mtn. Jasper (Oregon) Slab or spall >.5" 400
McKittrick Chert, fine-grained (California) Tabs <1" 450-600
McKittrick Chert, coarse-grained (California) Tabs <1" 600
Mill Creek Chert, dappled (Illinois) Biface <1.3" 600 Works like Burlington when cooked
Moline Chert, pink to gray (Iowa) Spalls <0.6" 650 Somewhat silty
Montana agate, clear with pattern Slab <.25" 500
Montana agate, translucent Slab <.25" 450
Montana agate Slab or spall >.25" 400
Mookite (Australia) Slab <.3" 550
Moss Agate, red to clear (Mexico) Slab <.3" 380
Mozarkite (colorful Missouri chert) Slab or spall <.5" 650
Novaculite, various colors (Arkansas) Spalls <2" 850
Nueces River Flint, brown (Texas) Biface <1" 400-450 48 hr drying time
Nueces River Flint, red and tan (Texas) Biface <1" 400-500 48 hr drying time
Nueces River Flint, white, gray, or pink (Texas) Spalls and bifaces to 1.5" 550-700 48 hr drying time
Opal, all varieties Spalls or slabs N/A No heating needed
Owyhee Jasper, red to green to tan (Oregon) Bifaces <1" 600
Paiute Agate, white (Oregon) Slab <.6" 600
Paiute Agate, translucent (Oregon) Slab <.6" 500
Pedernales Flint, smooth (Texas) Biface and tabular >1" 420
Pedernales Flint, grainy (Texas) Biface and spalls <1" 500
Petrified (agatized) wood (Washington) Slab <.25" 400 Brown, translucent
Petrified (agatized) wood (Grass Valley, Oregon) Slab <.25" 450 Brown with clear agate
Petrified (agatized) wood (Washington) Slab <.25" 550 Somewhat opaque
Petrified palm wood, opaque (Texas) Slab <.25" 550-600 Nice gloss at 600
Pierson Chert, red to green (Missouri) Slab or spall <.5" 450
Plume agate, orange (Oregon) Slab <.25" 500
Polka dot jasper (Oregon) Slab <.3" 550
Rainey Buttes Limonite (N. Dakota) Spalls N/A No heating needed
San Angelo Flint, brown (Texas) Slabs and bifaces to 1.5" 400 48 hr drying time
San Angelo Flint, banded tan and brown (Texas) Slabs and bifaces to 1" 450-550 48 hr drying time
Sunset Jasper, white to brown to pink (Oregon) Slab <.25" 550
Texas Rootbeer Flint Biface <1.5" 300-350 Translucent, dry 48 hours minimum
Thunderegg agate, clear with pint tint (Oregon) Slab <.25" 500

Note: Temperature ramping is 25 degrees F per hour. Hold at 205 degrees for drying. Then continue to desired temp.

Fossilman Cave Dweller Member since January 2009 Posts: 20,723	Purplpixie Dec 9, 2014 18:40:07 GMT -5 Quote Select Post Deselect Post Link to Post Member Give Gift Back to Top Post by Fossilman on Dec 9, 2014 18:40:07 GMT -5 I'm copying this down......thumbs up Just cut some Ohio Flint Ridge and Obsidian,will cook the flint...
	God,family and life.....

Deleted Deleted Member Member since January 1970 Posts: 0	Purplpixie Dec 9, 2014 19:15:33 GMT -5 Quote Select Post Deselect Post Link to Post Member Give Gift Back to Top Post by Deleted on Dec 9, 2014 19:15:33 GMT -5 I wonder what happens to burro creek and amy sage when heated to proscribed temps.

jamesp
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Purplpixie Dec 9, 2014 20:40:32 GMT -5

Quote

Post by jamesp on Dec 9, 2014 20:40:32 GMT -5

Dec 9, 2014 19:15:33 GMT -5 @shotgunner said:

I wonder what happens to burro creek and amy sage when heated to proscribed temps.

First priority for a knapper is workability improvement. Color secondary in most cases. Some of the better colored coral is not good for snapping, but has great color change.
Usually related to graininess, allowing more permeation of metals/chemicals, crap for knapping. grainy coral can go 700F, glassy maxes at 500.
Novaculite insane, some do 900F.
Moss gate turns ugly brown above 350/400.
coastal plain cherts great for cooking. Lots of color and makes great knapping material.

jamesp
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Purplpixie Dec 9, 2014 20:42:25 GMT -5 Fossilman likes this

Quote

Post by jamesp on Dec 9, 2014 20:42:25 GMT -5

Dec 9, 2014 18:40:07 GMT -5 Fossilman said:

I'm copying this down......thumbs up
Just cut some Ohio Flint Ridge and Obsidian,will cook the flint...

Flint Ridge a great one to cook Michael. best to get the saw oil cleaned well, may turn it brown. Many cookers cut w/water.
Palm is a great one to cook, it gets pretty. Thundereggs at the bottom of the list.....

Last Edit: Dec 9, 2014 20:44:24 GMT -5 by jamesp

Sabre52
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Purplpixie Dec 9, 2014 20:46:12 GMT -5

Quote

Post by Sabre52 on Dec 9, 2014 20:46:12 GMT -5

I bought some heat treated mozarkite at the Fredericksburg knap-in one year. Don't know if it improved color much but the swirls and such it brought out are incredible. Almost looks like swirly sagenite. I've never noticed that in mozarkite before heat treatment.....Mel

rockjunquie Global Moderator Member since March 2012 Posts: 35,018	Purplpixie Dec 9, 2014 23:28:06 GMT -5 kap, spiritstone, and 1 more like this Quote Select Post Deselect Post Link to Post Member Give Gift Back to Top Post by rockjunquie on Dec 9, 2014 23:28:06 GMT -5 Just read this thread straight through and I have to say.... I love how you boys can get so off topic with your rock recipes. Does my heart good.

jamesp
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Purplpixie Dec 10, 2014 3:03:03 GMT -5

Quote

Post by jamesp on Dec 10, 2014 3:03:03 GMT -5

Dec 9, 2014 20:46:12 GMT -5 Sabre52 said:

I bought some heat treated mozarkite at the Fredericksburg knap-in one year. Don't know if it improved color much but the swirls and such it brought out are incredible. Almost looks like swirly sagenite. I've never noticed that in mozarkite before heat treatment.....Mel

Mozarkite is pretty darn hard material.

jamesp
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Purplpixie Dec 10, 2014 3:05:37 GMT -5 spiritstone likes this

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Post by jamesp on Dec 10, 2014 3:05:37 GMT -5

Dec 9, 2014 23:28:06 GMT -5 rockjunquie said:

Just read this thread straight through and I have to say.... I love how you boys can get so off topic with your rock recipes.

Does my heart good.

If we can't cook food...

glennz01 driving up their electric bill Waiting for summer Member since July 2014 Posts: 2,253	Purplpixie Dec 10, 2014 4:58:28 GMT -5 spiritstone likes this Quote Select Post Deselect Post Link to Post Member Give Gift Back to Top Post by glennz01 on Dec 10, 2014 4:58:28 GMT -5 Dec 9, 2014 23:28:06 GMT -5 rockjunquie said: Just read this thread straight through and I have to say.... I love how you boys can get so off topic with your rock recipes. Does my heart good. Its all my fault
	My website: www.alaskanlapidary.com Facebook www.facebook.com/groups/Glennslapidary

Fossilman
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Purplpixie Dec 10, 2014 11:31:34 GMT -5

Quote

Post by Fossilman on Dec 10, 2014 11:31:34 GMT -5

Dec 9, 2014 20:42:25 GMT -5 jamesp said:

Dec 9, 2014 18:40:07 GMT -5 Fossilman said:

I'm copying this down......thumbs up
Just cut some Ohio Flint Ridge and Obsidian,will cook the flint...

Flint Ridge a great one to cook Michael. best to get the saw oil cleaned well, may turn it brown. Many cookers cut w/water.
Palm is a great one to cook, it gets pretty. Thundereggs at the bottom of the list.....

When I do anything other than cut on my rocks,I soak them in hot water with "Dawn" soap,than just let them sit in it for a few days,than rinse them and put them in cold water bath for a day or so..Can't be to careful....

Here are the pieces so far,before the cook....Three on this color and four on the red one...The red one is going to be killer cool I think after the cook!!!!

Last Edit: Dec 10, 2014 11:35:36 GMT -5 by Fossilman

God,family and life.....

Fossilman Cave Dweller Member since January 2009 Posts: 20,723	Purplpixie Dec 10, 2014 11:37:04 GMT -5 spiritstone likes this Quote Select Post Deselect Post Link to Post Member Give Gift Back to Top Post by Fossilman on Dec 10, 2014 11:37:04 GMT -5 This would be a great topic to pin for future references.....Get it off this taboo post....Thumbs up
	God,family and life.....

glennz01
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Purplpixie Dec 10, 2014 11:51:28 GMT -5

Quote

Post by glennz01 on Dec 10, 2014 11:51:28 GMT -5

Dec 10, 2014 11:37:04 GMT -5 Fossilman said:

This would be a great topic to pin for future references.....Get it off this taboo post....Thumbs up

I'm just going to share the opinion of my co-worker. He thinks that most flint ridge and other material looks better natural... like the 1st piece would be cooked and the 2nd piece would be natural.. He has been to flint ridge before and has some really cool stuff.

My website: www.alaskanlapidary.com
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spiritstone
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Purplpixie Dec 10, 2014 12:34:55 GMT -5

Quote

Post by spiritstone on Dec 10, 2014 12:34:55 GMT -5

Dec 9, 2014 18:36:15 GMT -5 jamesp said:

Dec 8, 2014 13:10:25 GMT -5 spiritstone said:

Does the heat treating work on any agate to enhance color. I have a few disdero I was thinking to give it a shot on and see if I could get the same results. Two to four inches under the sand sounds like something I'm going to try when the ground thaws The corals you heat surprise me on how much change can take place.Thanks for the link with the agate pics, so red and green is uncommon until heated in these agates.
Why i was asking is I have a Oregon carnellian that had crossed my mind if it was heated or not. The color is already extreme and it made me wonder.
Thank you.

Watched a few vids on heat treating and found this one on melting obsidian. I could see you coming up with something home made like this.

Some dope on heat treating spirit

www.dances-with-snakes.com/recipes.htm

A few materials

Rock Description/Name (Alphabetical) Preform Thickness Max. Temp. Special Instructions/Comments

Agatized palm wood, translucent (Texas) Slab <.25" 450-500 Beautiful!
Alibates Flint, various colors (Texas) Biface <1" 500
Allendale (Briar Creek) Agate (S. Carolina) Biface <.5" 500 Gets red highlites with heating
Amethyst agate, purple w/dendrites (Nevada) Slab <.25" 350-450 Incredible!
Arizona petrified wood Slab <.25" 500
Battle Mountain Jasper, white to tan (Nevada) Slab <.5" 500-600
Battle Mountain Jasper, white to purple (Nevada) Spalls <1" 550-650
Biggs Jasper, dark brown, smooth (Oregon) Biface <1.25" 450 Nice gloss
Biggs Jasper, with pattern (Oregon) Slab <.8" 550
Biggs Jasper, massive gray/brown (Oregon) Slab <.8" 600
Blackskin Agate (India) Slab <.25" 550
Bloodstone, green and red (India) Slab <.3" 550
Boone Chert, gray (Missouri) Spall/biface <.25" 550
Brandon Flint (England) Slab or spall <.4" 500 Thicker pieces will potlid
Brazilian agate, red to white Slab <.4" 600-650
Brazilian agate, white to brown Slab <.4" 500
Brazos River Flint Cobble (Texas) Slab or biface <2" 600
Bruneau Jasper (Idaho) Slab or end <.5" 600-700
Buffalo River Chert, tan (Tennessee) Spall <2" 600
Burlington Chert (Illinois) Bifaces 575-650 Hold max temperature for 72 hours
Burro Creek Jasp-Agate, purple (Arizona) Slab <.25" 550
Butterscotch Flint (Georgia Coastal Plain) Slabs < 0.5" 450-500 a.k.a. Flint River
Carnelian Agate (Oregon) Thick pieces 500
Carnelian Agate (Oregon) Slab <.25" 575 Red color increases with hold time
Chert, tan (Kentucky) Biface <1.5" 600
Cobden Flint (Illinois) Thin spall 500
Devine Terrace Flint, chocolate color (Texas) Biface <1" 350-450 Long drying time, gloss
Devine Terrace Flint, tan (Texas) Spall <.8" 400-450 Long drying time, satin finish
Flint Ridge Chalcedony, gray (Ohio) Biface <1.5" 550
Flint Ridge Chalcedony, gray (Ohio) Slab <.25" 650
Flint Ridge Chert (Ohio) Slab or biface <1" 600
Flint Ridge Chert, orange, (Ohio) Slab <.3" 650
Florida Agatized Coral Slab <1" 650
Fort Hood Flint, tan (Texas) Slab or biface <2" 600
Fort Hood Flint, gray (Texas) Biface <2" 500
Fort Payne Chert, brown to tan (Tennessee) Biface <1.5" 600
Georgetown Flint, gray, grainy (Texas) Biface <1" 400
Hornstone, Indiana or Kentucky Spalls and bifaces N/A No heating needed
Idaho Picture Jasper Slab <.4" 650
Imperial Jasper, red or green (Mexico) Slab <.3" 500-700
Imperial Jasper (Mexico nodular form) Slab <.3" 650
India Blackskin Agate Slab <.25" 550
India Fancy Jasper, red (India) Slab <.3" 500
India Fancy Jasper, pink and green (India) Slab <.3" 550
Jasper, mottled brown Slab <.6" 500 Long hold times produce color change to red
Jasper, black Slab or spall >.5" 500
Jasper, dark chocolate brown Slab <1" 500
Jasper, banded purple and gray Slab <.4" 600
Jasper, red Slab <.5" 400-500
Jasper, striped brown and red Slab <.6" 400-500
Kaolin, brown to red, somewhat grainy (Illinois) Slab <.5" 550-630 Color intensified with heating
Kaolin, brown to white, smooth (Illinois) Slab <.3" 600 Color change when heated
Knife River Flint (N. Dakota) Slab <.3" 500
Knife River Flint (ND) Slab or spall >.3" 400
Knife River Flint (ND) Chunks 350 CAREFUL! Potlids easily!
Kornthal Chert, gray to orange (Illinois) Biface <1" 600
Llano River Flint, red and brown (Texas) Bifaces to 1.5" 350-400 48 hr drying time
Llano River Flint, pale tan (Texas) Bifaces to 1.5" 500 48 hr drying time
Maury Mtn. Jasper (Oregon) Slab <.5" 500
Maury Mtn. Jasper (Oregon) Slab or spall >.5" 400
McKittrick Chert, fine-grained (California) Tabs <1" 450-600
McKittrick Chert, coarse-grained (California) Tabs <1" 600
Mill Creek Chert, dappled (Illinois) Biface <1.3" 600 Works like Burlington when cooked
Moline Chert, pink to gray (Iowa) Spalls <0.6" 650 Somewhat silty
Montana agate, clear with pattern Slab <.25" 500
Montana agate, translucent Slab <.25" 450
Montana agate Slab or spall >.25" 400
Mookite (Australia) Slab <.3" 550
Moss Agate, red to clear (Mexico) Slab <.3" 380
Mozarkite (colorful Missouri chert) Slab or spall <.5" 650
Novaculite, various colors (Arkansas) Spalls <2" 850
Nueces River Flint, brown (Texas) Biface <1" 400-450 48 hr drying time
Nueces River Flint, red and tan (Texas) Biface <1" 400-500 48 hr drying time
Nueces River Flint, white, gray, or pink (Texas) Spalls and bifaces to 1.5" 550-700 48 hr drying time
Opal, all varieties Spalls or slabs N/A No heating needed
Owyhee Jasper, red to green to tan (Oregon) Bifaces <1" 600
Paiute Agate, white (Oregon) Slab <.6" 600
Paiute Agate, translucent (Oregon) Slab <.6" 500
Pedernales Flint, smooth (Texas) Biface and tabular >1" 420
Pedernales Flint, grainy (Texas) Biface and spalls <1" 500
Petrified (agatized) wood (Washington) Slab <.25" 400 Brown, translucent
Petrified (agatized) wood (Grass Valley, Oregon) Slab <.25" 450 Brown with clear agate
Petrified (agatized) wood (Washington) Slab <.25" 550 Somewhat opaque
Petrified palm wood, opaque (Texas) Slab <.25" 550-600 Nice gloss at 600
Pierson Chert, red to green (Missouri) Slab or spall <.5" 450
Plume agate, orange (Oregon) Slab <.25" 500
Polka dot jasper (Oregon) Slab <.3" 550
Rainey Buttes Limonite (N. Dakota) Spalls N/A No heating needed
San Angelo Flint, brown (Texas) Slabs and bifaces to 1.5" 400 48 hr drying time
San Angelo Flint, banded tan and brown (Texas) Slabs and bifaces to 1" 450-550 48 hr drying time
Sunset Jasper, white to brown to pink (Oregon) Slab <.25" 550
Texas Rootbeer Flint Biface <1.5" 300-350 Translucent, dry 48 hours minimum
Thunderegg agate, clear with pint tint (Oregon) Slab <.25" 500

Note: Temperature ramping is 25 degrees F per hour. Hold at 205 degrees for drying. Then continue to desired temp.

WTH..

I never expected this, Thanks!.... were these handed down in a secret family cook book? LoL The list is copied now and fantastic.
I should have less disastrous attempts knowing somewhat on how get a start at it and to finish. Looking forward to trying this out spring thaw.

because as we know, there are known knowns; there are things we know we know. We also know there are known unknowns; that is to say we know there are some things we do not know. But there are also unknown unknowns -- the ones we don't know we don't know.