FACETING: DOP progress, photos

Pat, both machines will cut good gems but the Facette is by far the best and most accurate. Also the most expensive. However, condition is primary. There's always some risk in buying used faceting machines due to alignment problems and use/abuse, etc.

The Rayttech is built along the lines of diamond-cutting machines with a removable handpiece nicknamed a "frog" because it sits on a "lily-pad" rest, which makes it easy to inspect facets during cutting. Simply lift the frog from he rest and check progress. It's among the lowest-cost "entry-level" machines, with new ones going for around $2K with basic accessories. Raytech no longer makes the machines but parts and repairs are available through another manufacturer. The Raytech is a 6-inch lap machine which is more economical at the outset but involves some limitations because some of the most popular new laps are only available in 8-inch size. I'm thinking of the Batt Lap series although the manufacturer can often do special 6-inch orders. The machine itself can be accurate with care but is slow due to requiring lots of "cut a little, look a lot."

Facette is considered a "Cadillac" machine but it's no longer being manufactured and availability of new parts and repairs at present is "iffy." I've seen discussion to and fro about their supply status and it's definitely something you need to look into very carefully if it becomes your choice. It's a mast-type machine with a fixed handpiece that moves up and down on the mast and laterally by moving the entire mast. It's an 8-inch machine and it has a very solid reputation due largely to its oversize protractor which makes fine adjustments more accurate. It also usually comes with some sort of sophisticated electronic depth-of-cut indicator (there have been several versions and I'm not sure how machines of that age were equipped). I've seen used machines offered recently at between $5 and $6K. Price of both machines is affected by condition and the number and quality of included accessories like transfer jig, laps, dops, index gears etc.

I'll give the standard advice: join the free on-line USFG Faceters Guild to get more current and detailed advice. The enthusiasts there are very helpful and are have the latest information on pricing, parts availability etc. I'm just telling you stuff off the top of my head from memory. I've used the Raytech a lot and it's a good little machine if you give it proper care and pay attention to alignment etc. In fact I far prefer its design to mast machines. But you'll see it bad-mouthed by many cutters who use more expensive machines and consider it junk. In the final analysis its a big decision and the machine purchase is just the beginning. You'll need all sorts of laps and when it comes to faceting rough the sky's the $ limit.

Buying a second hand machine is good if you get one that has been looked after and comes with everything you need to get started.
Don't underestimate the value of a machine that comes with laps, different index wheels and a good selection of dops. Bits and pieces like that can end up costing you a fortune if you have to buy them all to get started.
Other things that might sway you are, dopping glue and faceting dopping wax, a transfer jig (a must have). diamond powders, used machines aften come with a collection of rough.

Thank you for all the information. Now to digest it and make my decision. Lots to consider.

****and material.....

I love to see that!!!

Pat

Congratulations and welcome to faceting! The Raytech-Shaw is a good machine and the free-handed Handpiece is beneficial when learning to facet.

Did the portable Fac-ette model look like the one pictured here?

If so, I have never seen one of those models in person and didn't even know they were ever produced until recently when Jay Connor posted a scan of the above vintage ad on Facet Finds FB group page. But if it was from the Seattle, WA plant then it is more than 8 years old. Here is an article on the Dobo brothers who used to own Fac-ette: www.starnewsonline.com/news/20100709/robert-and-william-dobo

And since I've never handled one in person or seen one for sale I have no frame of reference for a value on this model. Perhaps if you contact Cindy Young Hine through the USFG Yahoo group page, or through FB, she will be able to tell you more. Cindy used to work for Fac-ette when they were in Leland, NC and still does re-calibrating both new and old machines through Wyatt Yeagar's company Precision Faceting.

Larry C.

gemfeller Thanks for the offer. I'll pm my information. Haven't seen a manual yet. I don't even know if I have all the parts.

Not yet. However, I now have a usable place for it and the manual. I started go check that I have all the parts, matching items per the very helpful manual. Moving right along! Sorta!

I've been reading Herbst: Amateur Gemstone Faceting - it is a bit basic but just making sure that I do exactly that and I get all the basics covered. I would recommend it. I have vol 2 tucked away to read in future too. 'Reading' is too strong a term, but one way or another I've just about got through vol 1.

Haha - compliments will get you everywhere! It seems like a huge learning curve. I've almost finished Herbst vol1 except for the bits I haven't read, cut a couple of stones and fired a few around the room. I'll post another pic later.

Don't get too hung up on selecting a stone. You'll learn as much, if not more, from hands on than reading. Make a few mistakes and there's your learning right there!

I started with the sard, a generally flat and already lozenge shaped stone. I simply true'd up the sides so that they were parallel to one another and put a flat top and bottom on. I slipped a bezelled edge on then another just a fraction away just for the sake of it. What I missed out here is my early mistake, not thinking through: the bezel was shallow and it worked its way inland quite a bit... the finished stone is a bit smaller than intended.

In summary though, pick a stone that's not too precious, nor needs much to it. Let intuition guide you and just formalise a bezel that you might free-hand on a cab... that is, set to a specific angle and just try to get meet points all the way round 4 sides for starters. We can run after we've learned to crawl then walked.