ingawh
starting to spend too much on rocks
The rock wants to shine, I just help it get there
Member since February 2011
Posts: 194
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Post by ingawh on Mar 10, 2018 23:08:16 GMT -5
You begin to learn just how impatient and lazy I can be... I never even bother to clean out the little punt at the bottom of the jug, since it's one grit per barrel. I have the 220 SC barrel, the 500 AO barrel, and I do actually have a polish barrel, though I can't remember when I used it last. I love the set-it and forget-it method! After the first couple of loads I filled that hole with epoxy. I’ve never had a rock or piece of ceramic stuck in there since then. But it would be my luck I'd get stuff that sticks in the epoxy, that I then couldn't clean out if I wanted to! However, I have heard of others who used a similar solution with success. I refer you the aforementioned "lazy" disclaimer. All that really sticks in there may be a piece of my filler, so I just can't be bothered to fish it out.
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Post by rockpickerforever on Mar 11, 2018 1:17:05 GMT -5
Found it! I haven't tried to attach a file before, so I hope this comes through. It is a handout I prepared to give a couple talks on my 2-step method using rotary for the course grind and a Lot-O for the second and final stage. As I review it, I see that the opener is a bit of a pitch for why the Lot-O is such a great cost and bother saver. Anyway, feel free to ask questions, point out typos, etc. Unfortunately, the .docx file did not attach. If you could save it as a .pdf, I think you could upload it to Flickr? It is a shame that manufacturers provide inadequate or downright misleading manuals for their products. Thank you for sharing information on your success!
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ingawh
starting to spend too much on rocks
The rock wants to shine, I just help it get there
Member since February 2011
Posts: 194
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Post by ingawh on Mar 11, 2018 1:56:34 GMT -5
Found it! I haven't tried to attach a file before, so I hope this comes through. It is a handout I prepared to give a couple talks on my 2-step method using rotary for the course grind and a Lot-O for the second and final stage. As I review it, I see that the opener is a bit of a pitch for why the Lot-O is such a great cost and bother saver. Anyway, feel free to ask questions, point out typos, etc. Unfortunately, the .docx file did not attach. If you could save it as a .pdf, I think you could upload it to Flickr? It is a shame that manufacturers provide inadequate or downright misleading manuals for their products. Thank you for sharing information on your success! Rats! It did seem to attach when I went to the other computer and opened it. OK, so here's my attempt to attach it as a pdf. If that still doesn't work, I'll try the Flickr thing. Or has someone else had success attaching documents that can help? For me they seem to be there, and both the Word document and pdf open. I think the folks who invented the Lot-O just never did as much experimenting with it as I did, and never hit upon what I consider it's greatest attributes. You'll see in my instructions (if we get this to work!) that I completely countermand their suggesting of adding extra water when working with obsidian. It's awful - the stones just clang and smash against each other! The other thing is, NEVER follow their instruction about putting a whole in the cap. The slurry doesn't have that much water in it - the worst thing is to let it get dried out. I actually use document-sized rubber-bands to make sure the cap never comes off. Once I get a nice slurry - I don't want it evaporating. Other than that, I think the inventors were still just too influenced by the old rotary way of doing things. They weren't so much guilty of misleading, they just hadn't discovered what their own invention was capable of. Anyway, that's my theory. :-) Cheers! Ingas Lot-O-Tumbler 2-step instructions.pdf (522.24 KB)
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Post by rockpickerforever on Mar 11, 2018 2:46:41 GMT -5
Rats! It did seem to attach when I went to the other computer and opened it. OK, so here's my attempt to attach it as a pdf. If that still doesn't work, I'll try the Flickr thing. Or has someone else had success attaching documents that can help? For me they seem to be there, and both the Word document and pdf open. I think the folks who invented the Lot-O just never did as much experimenting with it as I did, and never hit upon what I consider it's greatest attributes. You'll see in my instructions (if we get this to work!) that I completely countermand their suggesting of adding extra water when working with obsidian. It's awful - the stones just clang and smash against each other! The other thing is, NEVER follow their instruction about putting a whole in the cap. The slurry doesn't have that much water in it - the worst thing is to let it get dried out. I actually use document-sized rubber-bands to make sure the cap never comes off. Once I get a nice slurry - I don't want it evaporating. Other than that, I think the inventors were still just too influenced by the old rotary way of doing things. They weren't so much guilty of misleading, they just hadn't discovered what their own invention was capable of. Anyway, that's my theory. :-) Cheers! Maybe it's just my tablet? The .pdf download was also unsuccessful. Well, thank you for trying. I believe you are right, that the manufacturer did not realize the Lot-O's potential. I think you have dialed it in with your experimenting! Hurrah! The one's I was referring to that mislead consumers that buy their product are the ones that imply you can run rotary tumblers for a total of four weeks (one week for each stage) and get awesome, shiny rocks! How many new rock tumbling hobbyists get discouraged when their first batch of rocks doesn't come out looking perfect? I guess if they were honest and said that it takes probably double (or more!)the amount of time they originally said, some people might be dissuaded from getting into a hobby that doesn't give instant rewards. ETA - Scratch the idea of PDF to Flickr. Only image files files are accepted there, and those must be in JPEG, GIF (non-animated) and PNG file formats. 2nd ETA - After several attempts, the PDF downloaded. But it came in as a .bin file, and when opened, it was a bunch of gibberish. A light bulb went on! I was able to change the name of the file e tension from .bin to .PDF and open it with Acrobat. So was able to open it! Kinda late now (yawn), I'll get a look at it tomorrow. Thanks, ingawh !
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Post by Jugglerguy on Mar 11, 2018 9:23:32 GMT -5
It downloaded fine on my iPad. It’s a nice write up of your procedure. Thanks!
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inbtb
Cave Dweller
Member since May 2016
Posts: 351
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Post by inbtb on Mar 11, 2018 10:16:38 GMT -5
Downloaded and opened quicker on my phone LG V20, than it did on my computer.
Les
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Post by rockpickerforever on Mar 11, 2018 10:36:24 GMT -5
I figured the problem was probably with my antique, decrepit android tablet, lol. Glad you all are not having any problems downloading ingawh 's recipe.
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Post by grumpybill on Mar 11, 2018 11:42:05 GMT -5
The file opened fine for me last night on my Windows laptop running Open Office.
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Post by toiv0 on Mar 11, 2018 13:48:41 GMT -5
Some mentioned 220 AO, is there a difference between the Brian and the white. I see Kingsley North has it for 160 for 50 lbs of white and some makers have it for 85 for 50 lbs if brown. Where do people get there coarse AO.
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inbtb
Cave Dweller
Member since May 2016
Posts: 351
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Post by inbtb on Mar 11, 2018 13:59:40 GMT -5
eBay. theabrasivearmory
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ingawh
starting to spend too much on rocks
The rock wants to shine, I just help it get there
Member since February 2011
Posts: 194
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Post by ingawh on Mar 13, 2018 1:46:00 GMT -5
FYI - In reviewing the instructions I attached, I noticed a small but important typo: a missing "not" in the original version of this sentence: "There’s very little actual slurry, but still, do NOT send it down the drain."
I think everyone on this board knows that, but I changed it and updated both versions of it that I had posted, just because I'd be mortified if someone new to our sport got misled by it.
Please don't hesitate to tell me if you find any other typos. I tend to read what I meant, not necessarily what I wrote!
Thanks!
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jamesp
Cave Dweller
Member since October 2012
Posts: 36,561
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Post by jamesp on Mar 13, 2018 4:24:45 GMT -5
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jamesp
Cave Dweller
Member since October 2012
Posts: 36,561
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Post by jamesp on Mar 13, 2018 4:48:44 GMT -5
I use a 2 step. Coarse silicon carbide in the rotary and AO 220 in the vibe. For soft materials I add a polish step using Rock Shed polish. And I may be using the coarsest silicon carbide ever put in a tumbler, forge grade bulk SiC for 30 cents/pound. Amusing thread.
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Post by toiv0 on Mar 13, 2018 6:22:45 GMT -5
I ordered from him yesterday and got the white fused. Just ordered the 10 lbs. Was just a few cents a pound different then a larger quantity.
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jamesp
Cave Dweller
Member since October 2012
Posts: 36,561
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Post by jamesp on Mar 13, 2018 6:52:50 GMT -5
10 pounds lasts over a year in this shop Billy toiv0. This is the same fused material except it is AO 22 on 1/4 inch lines. The AO 220 looks just like this until the vibe gets a hold of it and pulverizes it into polish in 36 to 48 hours.
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Post by toiv0 on Mar 13, 2018 6:58:14 GMT -5
10 pounds lasts over a year in this shop Billy toiv0 . This is the same fused material except it is AO 22 on 1/4 inch lines. The AO 220 looks just like this until the vibe gets a hold of it and pulverizes it into polish in 36 to 48 hours. Interesting, been kind of watching all of your experimenting and its all kind of rolling around in my brain. Not very organized sometimes and am doomed to repeat mistakes until muscle memory takes over.
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jamesp
Cave Dweller
Member since October 2012
Posts: 36,561
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Post by jamesp on Mar 13, 2018 7:02:46 GMT -5
10 pounds lasts over a year in this shop Billy toiv0 . This is the same fused material except it is AO 22 on 1/4 inch lines. The AO 220 looks just like this until the vibe gets a hold of it and pulverizes it into polish in 36 to 48 hours. Interesting, been kind of watching all of your experimenting and its all kind of rolling around in my brain. Not very organized sometimes and am doomed to repeat mistakes until muscle memory takes over. No complexity in this tumbling shop Bily. Coarse as hell SiC in the rotary, AO 220 in the vibe. Both best left running a bit longer for abrasive breakdown for best polish.
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Post by toiv0 on Mar 13, 2018 7:16:27 GMT -5
Interesting, been kind of watching all of your experimenting and its all kind of rolling around in my brain. Not very organized sometimes and am doomed to repeat mistakes until muscle memory takes over. No complexity in this tumbling shop Bily. Coarse as hell SiC in the rotary, AO 220 in the vibe. Both best left running a bit longer for abrasive breakdown for best polish. Miss ingawh recommends 1/4 teaspoon of media. Real men think if 1/4 teaspoon is good a full teaspoon is better. Metamucil? Cat litter? Chia seeds?
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jamesp
Cave Dweller
Member since October 2012
Posts: 36,561
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Post by jamesp on Mar 13, 2018 9:00:04 GMT -5
No complexity in this tumbling shop Bily. Coarse as hell SiC in the rotary, AO 220 in the vibe. Both best left running a bit longer for abrasive breakdown for best polish. Miss ingawh recommends 1/4 teaspoon of media. Real men think if 1/4 teaspoon is good a full teaspoon is better. Metamucil? Cat litter? Chia seeds? A tender touch is required when it come to the vibe. Put the sledge hammers back in the tool box.
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Post by wigglinrocks on Mar 13, 2018 11:45:27 GMT -5
Some mentioned 220 AO, is there a difference between the Brian and the white. I see Kingsley North has it for 160 for 50 lbs of white and some makers have it for 85 for 50 lbs if brown. Where do people get there coarse AO. I've read the brown AO breaks down like Sic but the white AO rounds . Never used the brown so not sure if it makes any difference .
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