minerken
Cave Dweller 
Member since August 2013
Posts: 466 
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Post by minerken on Apr 3, 2018 20:34:01 GMT -5
your old wheels should work perfectly I didn't consider that when suggesting carbide or as notjustone suggeted ALO. |
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Post by Rockoonz on Apr 3, 2018 22:24:51 GMT -5
That is way too cool.
Is your billet a knife blade blank? Do you know what the steel alloy components are and if it's annealed or hardened? I look at that and see custom contoured blocks and punches and hammer it to shape. A belt sander with aluminum oxide and trizact belts is standard for that kind of work. I it's alloys that are suitable for knife handles too much heat will harden it. When you're grinding and sanding if the pattern seems to fade or disappear have no fear, a few minutes in ferric chloride will bring it back out.
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minerken
Cave Dweller
Member since August 2013
Posts: 466
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Post by minerken on Apr 3, 2018 23:18:01 GMT -5
as Rockoonz points out the grinding and sanding can build up a lot of heat so another good reason to use the cab machine ya have water there that will also let you use a dop stick and keeping the material cool enough that the glue won't release can't wait to see your first shot at this. |
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Post by Rockoonz on Apr 3, 2018 23:23:15 GMT -5
Frequent dipping in water with a dry aluminum oxide belt or grinder would be better, I wouldn't get steel anywhere near diamond wheels.
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Post by rockjunquie on Apr 4, 2018 7:23:08 GMT -5
That is way too cool. Is your billet a knife blade blank? Do you know what the steel alloy components are and if it's annealed or hardened? I look at that and see custom contoured blocks and punches and hammer it to shape. A belt sander with aluminum oxide and trizact belts is standard for that kind of work. I it's alloys that are suitable for knife handles too much heat will harden it. When you're grinding and sanding if the pattern seems to fade or disappear have no fear, a few minutes in ferric chloride will bring it back out. It supposedly is for knives. I got it from Pakistan on ebay for cheap thinking it might be softer than the better stuff. I'm beginning to feel that I am getting in over my head. BUT, I'll give it a shot sometime. Not in a huge hurry. I do have a belt sander, though. That sounds like a good idea. |
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Post by rockjunquie on Apr 4, 2018 7:24:24 GMT -5
Frequent dipping in water with a dry aluminum oxide belt or grinder would be better, I wouldn't get steel anywhere near diamond wheels. Would you be more worried for the wheels if I used diamond? I have several sets of worn wheels that I was thinking of trying. |
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notjustone
spending too much on rocks
Member since January 2017
Posts: 426
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Post by notjustone on Apr 4, 2018 8:52:16 GMT -5
Frequent dipping in water with a dry aluminum oxide belt or grinder would be better, I wouldn't get steel anywhere near diamond wheels. Would you be more worried for the wheels if I used diamond? I have several sets of worn wheels that I was thinking of trying. do you have an old coarse sintered hard wheels? or an expando so if you wipe out a belt no big deal. that's where I would start.(well actually I would start on the belt sander lol) I mean they do make diamond cutting blades for steel but they just aren't that popular. I honestly don't know why. |
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Post by rockjunquie on Apr 4, 2018 9:12:22 GMT -5
Would you be more worried for the wheels if I used diamond? I have several sets of worn wheels that I was thinking of trying. do you have an old coarse sintered hard wheels? or an expando so if you wipe out a belt no big deal. that's where I would start.(well actually I would start on the belt sander lol) I mean they do make diamond cutting blades for steel but they just aren't that popular. I honestly don't know why. I only have the genie wheels. 2 hard wheels and then the nova wheels. No expando or arbor.  |
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notjustone
spending too much on rocks
Member since January 2017
Posts: 426
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Post by notjustone on Apr 4, 2018 9:28:25 GMT -5
well you could try the old wheels nothing to lose. I just know the sic grinding wheels made for masonry don't work worth a damn on steel. and vice versa with the ao wheels on stone. like I said they do make diamond blades for cutting steel but they aren't popular. I don't know if its price or longevity ect.
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Tommy
Administrator 
Member since January 2013
Posts: 12,989
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Post by Tommy on Apr 4, 2018 10:00:49 GMT -5
... or an expando so if you wipe out a belt no big deal. Good nugget of advice right here if you have an expando - I didn't read through the whole thread so you may have already said you don't though. If it were me I would don mask and eye protection and shape it on a cheap bench grinder from Harbor Freight then work it on SiC expando belts all the way up through 1000 grit before hitting a polisher. |
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Tommy
Administrator
Member since January 2013
Posts: 12,989
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Post by Tommy on Apr 4, 2018 10:01:50 GMT -5
I only have the genie wheels. 2 hard wheels and then the nova wheels. No expando or arbor. OH, duh haha. sorry. |
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Post by rockjunquie on Apr 4, 2018 10:16:49 GMT -5
I'm thinking it will work, but will severely wear the wheels and be no good for rocks afterwards. each scenario is fine with the old wheels.
I am going to order some cut off wheels for metal and the foredom for the precabbing. I'll keep this thread updated, but I don't know when I will get to it.
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Sabre52
Cave Dweller
Me and my gal, Rosie
Member since August 2005
Posts: 20,496
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Post by Sabre52 on Apr 4, 2018 13:22:29 GMT -5
Now that's a necklace to grunt and beat your chest over. Tim the tool man would love that...Mel
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notjustone
spending too much on rocks
Member since January 2017
Posts: 426
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Post by notjustone on Apr 4, 2018 17:16:43 GMT -5
For what it's worth i only sanded to about 600 to 1000 grit before etching. Etching is gonna pit the surface anyway.then etch rinse off the black gook but not all of it put in boiling water for 10 Min that hardens up the black a lite so it stays in the deeper high carbon groves.spray liberally with Windex the ammonia neutralizes the acid. Then hand sand out the higher nickel lines.
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minerken
Cave Dweller
Member since August 2013
Posts: 466
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Post by minerken on Apr 4, 2018 19:39:07 GMT -5
I'm thinking it will work, but will severely wear the wheels and be no good for rocks afterwards. each scenario is fine with the old wheels. I am going to order some cut off wheels for metal and the foredom for the precabbing. I'll keep this thread updated, but I don't know when I will get to it. HEHE told you you in for more tools  |
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adrian65
Cave Dweller
Arch to golden memories and to great friends.
Member since February 2007
Posts: 10,790
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Post by adrian65 on Apr 5, 2018 11:27:11 GMT -5
It's superb, but definitely masculine. Cab, chain, the whole thing. Maybe you might wear it, but it would scream "She stole me from her hubby's neck!"  Adrian |
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jamesp
Cave Dweller
Member since October 2012
Posts: 36,608
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Post by jamesp on Apr 5, 2018 22:34:57 GMT -5
A W E S O M E
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jamesp
Cave Dweller
Member since October 2012
Posts: 36,608
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Post by jamesp on Apr 5, 2018 22:37:03 GMT -5
A cotton buffing wheel charged with rouge will slap a polish down on steel.
A small tumbler will do 220-500-1000, then the buff w/rouge. Use media, polished Mohs 7 will work.
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notjustone
spending too much on rocks
Member since January 2017
Posts: 426
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Post by notjustone on Apr 5, 2018 23:17:04 GMT -5
I never tried buffing because a few people told me buffing blurs the lines.
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jamesp
Cave Dweller
Member since October 2012
Posts: 36,608
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Post by jamesp on Apr 5, 2018 23:20:46 GMT -5
I never tried buffing because a few people told me buffing blurs the lines. Buffing will sure increase temperature. Use light pressure and take it slow. |
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Nov 15, 2024 17:44:51 GMT -5
Nov 15, 2024 17:44:51 GMT -5
