saxplayer
fully equipped rock polisher
Member since March 2018
Posts: 1,327
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Post by saxplayer on Apr 24, 2020 10:08:50 GMT -5
Ok all, so I'm getting started tumbling again after a long hiatus. (I'll make another post to update the last 8 months later).
Prior to being evicted by the di-hydrogen/oxygen landlord, I was tumbling quite a bit. I often pre-shaped or slabbed/shaped with a tile saw. My problem is this - when I run my stage 1 rough and come across plenty of stones with pits and flaws - I have to fully set up my tile saw to repair or fix these before I continue them on in stage 1.
What would be the easiest way to replace the tile saw for pits/fractures (not the big fractures that require splitting)? Should I get a cabbing machine? I don't want to spend much money right now. I'm also curious if a simple bench grinder would suffice?
Thoughts from the masses, and also if anyone has some equipment they might be wanting to part with let me know.
Thanks all,
Grant
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Post by rockjunquie on Apr 24, 2020 10:15:34 GMT -5
If you think a cabber is the answer- try an Ameritool flat lap. Much cheaper and easier to set up than a wheeled machine. I think I would still use a saw- quicker.
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saxplayer
fully equipped rock polisher
Member since March 2018
Posts: 1,327
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Post by saxplayer on Apr 24, 2020 10:32:12 GMT -5
If you think a cabber is the answer- try an Ameritool flat lap. Much cheaper and easier to set up than a wheeled machine. I think I would still use a saw- quicker. So I have a nice set up for my saw, but I have to take it down and set it up every time in my front driveway. It does work great for cutting up and getting rid of bad flaws... but I wonder if some kind of spinning cab / grinder etc would make it easier to remove smaller flaws between stage 1 clean outs. Would an ameritool flat lap have a rough enough pad to really grind quickly if needed? I worry about getting my faces too flat that way possibly. |
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Post by rockjunquie on Apr 24, 2020 10:35:36 GMT -5
If you think a cabber is the answer- try an Ameritool flat lap. Much cheaper and easier to set up than a wheeled machine. I think I would still use a saw- quicker. So I have a nice set up for my saw, but I have to take it down and set it up every time in my front driveway. It does work great for cutting up and getting rid of bad flaws... but I wonder if some kind of spinning cab / grinder etc would make it easier to remove smaller flaws between stage 1 clean outs. Would an ameritool flat lap have a rough enough pad to really grind quickly if needed? I worry about getting my faces too flat that way possibly. The ameritool comes in 6 and 8 inch. I have the 8 inch. I think it would work for you, but I'd wait for more opinions. Have you thought of a very small trim saw that you can easily use in the house? I have the ameritool trim saw and it is a breeze to get out and use at the kitchen table. ameritoolonline.com/products/4-lapidary-trim-saw on sale now, too. Their customer service is excellent. |
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Post by mohs on Apr 24, 2020 11:02:17 GMT -5
Hey Grant good to see ya back
hope that family is fairing thee well !
No real advice besides
Inexpensive arbor and S/C Wheel
kind of messy --but way efficient
I think
O and to Tela
Thanks for the Ameritool Trim Saw post
hadn;t realize they had such a nice portable unit
may be just what the mohs
is in the market for
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Post by fernwood on Apr 24, 2020 11:05:43 GMT -5
Check out for sale listings near you. Lots of great deals are available now. Many are selling things they were holding on to. I recently saw a nice flat lap for $25.00. Almost bought it, but I am trying to save money.
I saw the listing about 5 minutes after posting. It was claimed within 10 minutes.
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Post by Drummond Island Rocks on Apr 24, 2020 11:06:44 GMT -5
Grinding flaws during the tumbling process has always been a large part of my batches. Unlike others I do not pre-grind or saw off flaws right away. I tumble for several weeks in stage one and then look for rocks that just have a few remaining flaws and grind them off. If a rock is still covered in flaws then tumbling longer makes more sense then grinding. Here is my ultimate tumble prep grinder I put together last month. Prior to this I was using an 80 grit plated diamond wheel. forum.rocktumblinghobby.com/thread/90890/mega-grinder-rock-tumbling-completeChuck |
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saxplayer
fully equipped rock polisher
Member since March 2018
Posts: 1,327
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Post by saxplayer on Apr 24, 2020 13:19:39 GMT -5
Thanks Drummond Island Rocks and others. I also do a lot of pre-shaping and or grinding during the process. I'm too type A - I like perfect rocks (as I can anyways). I am just needing to find a better way than with my 8'' tile saw. It's a beast for sawing etc but pushing rocks from the side INTO the diamond points on the blade wears it out quickly and isn't that efficient. |
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agatemaggot
Cave Dweller 
Member since August 2006
Posts: 2,195
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Post by agatemaggot on Apr 24, 2020 13:39:06 GMT -5
Check with an E-Bay seller named Jade Carver for an inexpensive diamond wheel. Putting it on a budget / cheap bench grinder with a water source might be the least expensive way to go ! jadecarver.com/ |
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Post by rockjunquie on Apr 24, 2020 13:42:31 GMT -5
Thanks Drummond Island Rocks and others. I also do a lot of pre-shaping and or grinding during the process. I'm too type A - I like perfect rocks (as I can anyways). I am just needing to find a better way than with my 8'' tile saw. It's a beast for sawing etc but pushing rocks from the side INTO the diamond points on the blade wears it out quickly and isn't that efficient. Not to discount anything, but on that little saw, I use thin disposable blades that are like 20 for 4 or 5. They actually last pretty well. |
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saxplayer
fully equipped rock polisher
Member since March 2018
Posts: 1,327
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Post by saxplayer on Apr 24, 2020 14:29:05 GMT -5
Thanks Drummond Island Rocks and others. I also do a lot of pre-shaping and or grinding during the process. I'm too type A - I like perfect rocks (as I can anyways). I am just needing to find a better way than with my 8'' tile saw. It's a beast for sawing etc but pushing rocks from the side INTO the diamond points on the blade wears it out quickly and isn't that efficient. Not to discount anything, but on that little saw, I use thin disposable blades that are like 20 for 4 or 5. They actually last pretty well. Cool, any link to a product you're using for blades? |
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Post by rockjunquie on Apr 24, 2020 14:50:12 GMT -5
I get them on ebay mostly. That saw will take a 5" blade, too.
The blades are cheap, but I like them for preforming.
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Post by toiv0 on Apr 24, 2020 20:01:50 GMT -5
I get them on ebay mostly. That saw will take a 5" blade, too.
The blades are cheap, but I like them for preforming.
Do you use the small trim saw to shape tumbling rocks or preform for cabachons? |
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Post by rockjunquie on Apr 24, 2020 20:04:45 GMT -5
I get them on ebay mostly. That saw will take a 5" blade, too.
The blades are cheap, but I like them for preforming.
Do you use the small trim saw to shape tumbling rocks or preform for cabachons? As I mentioned, I use it for preforming, but I have also cut a lot of smalls, either slab or shape. I don't know why it couldn't be used to shape small to medium tumbles. |
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Post by toiv0 on Apr 24, 2020 20:10:25 GMT -5
I might have something that looks similar to this but will need New wheels. It is used and dirty. Need a water supply and put it on a stand and rollers. With a set up like Chuck has its will be a super grinder. I will look at it this week end and might be able to deliver to WildWood next week if I have to go to Oklahoma to pick up a machine for work. I will get pic if you want on Sunday. www.worthpoint.com/worthopedia/star-lapidary-arbor-polishing-1838551887 |
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saxplayer
fully equipped rock polisher
Member since March 2018
Posts: 1,327
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Post by saxplayer on Apr 24, 2020 23:50:54 GMT -5
I might have something that looks similar to this but will need New wheels. It is used and dirty. Need a water supply and put it on a stand and rollers. With a set up like Chuck has its will be a super grinder. I will look at it this week end and might be able to deliver to WildWood next week if I have to go to Oklahoma to pick up a machine for work. I will get pic if you want on Sunday. www.worthpoint.com/worthopedia/star-lapidary-arbor-polishing-1838551887Hmm may be interested Billy. ESP if you can point me in the right wheel direction? I’ll take whatever pics you want to take. Thanks! |
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Post by Peruano on Apr 25, 2020 7:07:29 GMT -5
I'm not sure your question was totally answered. A bench grinder (not designed for wet lapidary work) will not really work (safely). You can get by with something that has a water suppression of dust and you can devise your own if you are careful about electrical hazards and ways to deliver and re-collect the water used on the stones. . . but don't work dry unless you take major precautions against breathing the dust (and the dust that will settle throughout your work area. The Star arbor that you are being shown would be great with an 80 grit diamond or sic wheel on one end and an expando wheel on the other that would let you use a variety of belt/grit sizes. Even cheaper might be a used combo unit (wheel on one end and saw on the other) if you can find one. (that would complement your tile saw). Even one of the old Sears flat lap/faceter rigs (often found lacking the facet attachments ) would work if outfitted with a coarse grit lap disc. I worked with beach stones and had a long initial period of just grinding a bit and then running things in the vibe-5, but often found it more efficient to do "remedial" grinding after things had been in the vibe for awhile so that I knew what I wanted and what I was likely to get without intervention. If you have a separate arbor from the motor (shock protection) you can use it with splash pans and hoods available from Lortone but it may not be cheaper than other alternatives and depending on how protected the bearings are on the arbor, they may not survive as long as a dedicated machine would. You want to grind . . . its up to you to figure out the economics of money and time to do so. Have fun and be creative and safe.
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pizzano
Cave Dweller
Member since February 2018
Posts: 1,390
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Post by pizzano on Apr 25, 2020 8:42:26 GMT -5
I've been using this method for almost 2yrs now.....:
I don't waste much time with rotary tumblers anymore. Just cut and rough shape with the MK 170, then refine shape and imperfections on the 2-speed bench grinder using 90 & 120 diamond faceting disc's (as shown on the link above), then Vibe tumble 120/220 thru polish stages. I've used 500 and 800 disc's several times prior to Vibe polishing stages, but being a vertical wheel and hard plate backing, difficult to get "rounded" and curved edges perfected (it works, but not to perfection). I don't take my stone work as serious as other's, so have not invested in a small Cab set-up which would be ideal if you're looking for finished product to wire wrap or pendant settings........I'm an A/B personality, both right and left sides of my brain co-mingle all the time.......thus, there is internal conflict with right angle's and curves, but I'm ambidextrous which helps........lol
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Post by Starguy on Apr 25, 2020 21:17:05 GMT -5
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