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Post by oregon on May 3, 2018 22:29:29 GMT -5
Spring cleaning I guess. These were all in my tumbling parts box, there are some new parts, used parts. Anyone up for swapping so we can both make a few whole tumblers? Tend to sell them cheap to kids/families over the summer. I'm looking for: - a 3A Barrel lid ( outer cover, inner plate and gasket - I have a spare nut.)
- a 1.5 lb barrel ?
- a 45c barrel outer lid
- qt6/12 or 45 frame, the more parts, the more interesting.
I have to offer: 2 45c rubber barrels - rubber is solid. no lids qt6/12 barrel plate w/ nut NOS 33/45 Lortone motor Used qt6/12 motor? pic below - not sure of the rpm? Qt6/12 belts qt6 Motor/belt cover some 33/45c belts and anyone know what the 3L260 belt was used on? (pic below) has a tall standoff barrel guide in the bag that looks Lortone-ish. Lortone 1.5 tumbler frame, seems to work well shoot me an email if you're interested. Rick
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Post by oregon on Apr 6, 2018 10:00:08 GMT -5
Gotta slow down, got to many varieties and methods. ..... This glass is a lot of fun. Hard to imagine a few weeks ago you didn't think an electric kiln could melt glass fun to watch. I can't believe you haven't tried pot melts or 'combing', playing with molten glass yet. It'll soften all the straight lines in your creations, but mostly just fun. Interested to see how the market for bulk pendants goes, seems like your big selling point is that both sides are polished, and not the typical flat back off a kiln shelf? Huge market of small glass beads as well?... good luck, thanks for the updates.
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Post by oregon on Apr 5, 2018 12:00:02 GMT -5
Moderately sized show outside of Eugene-Springfield. There is some nice estate old stock material donated to the club, and a huge Bed 3 (old Kennedy) bed thunderegg Richardson's just donated, This bed is NLA, hasn't been dug for 20years. ~10-12 inches, ~30lbs. Show flier is posted on their FB page here. oh, I guess I can link images... sry no scale on the egg, but it's volleyball sized!
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Post by oregon on Mar 28, 2018 16:26:41 GMT -5
I'm guessing most manufacturers sourced feed motors from Grainger. If there is a Grainger number (like your number-letter-numbers) easy to match up. If not if you knew rotation and rpm's you can either find in catalog by spec's or their phone support people are really good. Heard of a guy that got a deal on an LS12 because feed did not work. Had a new feed motor but he found it ran backwards. When folks repair these motors (repack the gearbox), often times without paying attention they will go back together and run in reverse mode. Fairly easy to reverse directions on these shaded pole motors. (not all gearboxes might be designed to run in reverse though)
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Post by oregon on Feb 13, 2018 17:11:15 GMT -5
Not that advanced yet oregon. Only fused a few times. The bricks do have a few bubbles. I have not tumble polished any of the pieces I have fused. Hope they tumble well. I do a fairly standard heat schedule for this type of glass. I do need to raise the heat a bit to melt the top flatter. My kiln has a small chamber with a lot of coils so it is great for bricks. Looking forward to mixing and trying all kinds of things. You might research kiln casting. Here are a couple bullseye schedules, they look like a 24 hr process vs shorter fusing a few layers.. www.bullseyeglass.com/images/stories/bullseye/PDF/TipSheets/tipsheet_08.pdf www.bullseyeglass.com/images/stories/bullseye/PDF/TipSheets/tipsheet_05.pdf I think the deal is glass is a poor heat conductor, takes a while to get in, and out... Cut a brick see how it looks inside. If you cut and restack you can make some cool symmetrical patterns anyway. (Cleaning cuts etc before firing is a good idea) either that, or just try holding one of your bricks at high temp for twice as long, see how it looks. Bubbles could be a great feature, but imagine a pain tumbling too. They usually migrate slowly, I think that's why the pot melt avenue is popular.
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Post by oregon on Feb 12, 2018 12:57:07 GMT -5
No opening of the kiln to play with molten glass yet? (Raking or combing) Goggles, gloves, fire... I also think fewer colors, themes might be of more interest. The thick blocks still look to have some air pockets/bubbles? No problems with tumbling them? I haven't worked with such huge thickness of glass, but wouldn't be surprised if the kiln times were much longer to get a nice solid uniform brick. 2c. molten glass, fun stuff. e.g. jamesp
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Post by oregon on Feb 5, 2018 20:14:56 GMT -5
Try googling Pot Melts... you can get really interesting patterns... Opening the kiln is about as fun as opening the saw after a thunderegg. eg jamesp
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Post by oregon on Jan 25, 2018 23:27:38 GMT -5
I need a motor. So, if you replace your machine and it uses the 107rpm GE MIna motors I'll buy the remaining one. Failing that, snowdog, I need a motor too! see above. Some one was showing me how to repair the gear that usually fails inside the gear box, should have paid more attention. He had made heaps of spheres, knew those motors.
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Post by oregon on Jan 20, 2018 20:35:34 GMT -5
Drove 10 hour round trip to pick up a used glass kiln yesterday. Going to make glass tumbles. Another endeavor, slumping glass. That looks like the model without the programmable controller? With glass, it's nice to have a programmable controller, so you can ramp temperatures up/down in a controlled way (annealing, devitrification). All pretty straightforward to build if this doesn't have that.... fun with glass. If you just melt the blobs on kiln shelves, you'll have one shiny side already. Though, layering, fusing, cutting and re-layering can make some interesting patterns.
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Post by oregon on Jan 9, 2018 13:35:51 GMT -5
jamesp - running an small/medium electric kiln isn't really that expensive see this link for example Electric also gives you great temp control, so annealing etc is very easy. Also could give you great control over heat treating of rocks/coral....
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Post by oregon on Jan 8, 2018 14:31:16 GMT -5
I was just mentioning how much 'less' glass there was on the local art scene this year, might have been due to Bullseye's pollution problems in Portland but, also seems past it's fad status. - Check out how well Nature does at tumbling glass, Glass Beach, Originally the town dump, now a tourist destination... I imagine organics gone, metal corroded away, but lots of glass left www.google.com/search?q=glass+beach+california&client=firefox-b-1&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwjK0YzaiMnYAhVL64MKHeOuAaUQ_AUICygC&biw=1105&bih=691 But - buy your self a small kiln, I'm sure one of your bone yards would provide... Don't need huge, and a programmable temp controller you can build simply and not for not much. Different glasses (COE) can have issues together, but it's still fun swirling molten glass around, and cracks in the finished product in your case might be a good thing! I keep thinking of the tumbling barrel video you posted, how the rocks(bearings) along the outer wall didn't really move, the 'tumbling' down the face was where the big action was - so for glass or such might it also help to fill the barrel very full? Thanks for all the experimenting. After breaking about half of that glass up yesterday I see how cheaply they made it. They use about all clear glass and inject a thin layer of color in the middle of 2 layers. Probably a long shot from Murano 'techniques'. Glass used is totally uncontrollable with hammer. It does not behave like agate. Best thickness is 1/4" thick.
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Post by oregon on Dec 14, 2017 12:05:06 GMT -5
Check out this SDR 11 6 inch pipe beast. 7" inside diameter. Wall thickness is 13/16". grrrr: says the lotto Master - Well, you've dialed back the vibrations to polish soft rocks, what about dialing things up to actually rough in a vibe? - those look like the tubs for it. 2c.
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Post by oregon on Dec 12, 2017 13:04:30 GMT -5
Any reason you don't want to use a sandblaster & stencil cutter instead?
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Post by oregon on Dec 8, 2017 12:57:40 GMT -5
I left them out and my six-four is running smooth and quiet again. I'm happily cutting up a big chunk of Owyhee that I paid too much for on Ebay So, you said it's snug, I'll guess the bearing is still doing it's job, not just acting like a steel bushing. Without anchoring the bearing to the shaft, I'd worry about slip, and damaging the shaft over time. Makes me also wonder if it is out of true a bit. Always liked the egocentric lock collars better than set screws... Of course if you have to get rid of it in a short while, might not matter.
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Post by oregon on Dec 7, 2017 14:25:28 GMT -5
I was told these self-aligning bearings come packed with grease - I wasn't supposed to pack them was I? There is nowhere on the Ebay listing to indicate if they were supposed to be packed or not. Always wondered if cheapos might be missing the hole for grease, or aligned wrong... - Youtube! I didn't know these were that easy to disassemble and check!
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Post by oregon on Dec 7, 2017 1:29:58 GMT -5
Did you roll the spindle on a flat surface, to see if it's pretty true? Pillow blocks won't handle that if it's worn or not true.
But back to your first comment - is this the SAME popping noise from three sets of different bearings as your comment hinted? Seems odd to me that they would all fail in this 'not so normal like a screeching bearing fail' way. If so, that would lead me to something else being wrong other than the bearings? Weld or support loose? dunno, just seems more than coincidental even for Chinese bearings.
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Post by oregon on Nov 6, 2017 12:05:23 GMT -5
I reduced the rpm down to around 400, little fast for the rough preforms.... So what sort of cups do you run for the rough grind at that speed to keep things under control?
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Post by oregon on Oct 10, 2017 13:39:27 GMT -5
No matter how experienced you are, no one can say if a specimen is going to be hollow. There are signs but no guarantees. Are the hollows filled with water? Cant do a density measurement? - think some places do that for Brazillians. Cheap Scale, and large enough cylinder? Wonder if you could trick a wall stud finder into telling the difference. hmmm.. Could always drill with a small masonry bit where you plan on cutting anyway... all 2c.
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Post by oregon on Sept 23, 2017 23:08:11 GMT -5
This was in a creek from the Willamette headwaters, we get a lot of jasper material locally. Probably just as much material as eastern Oregon (same volcanoes) just that with rain vegetation GROWS and buries everything... Probably is hematite as my guess as well, I just haven't seen it so 'silver/gray' around here before.
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Post by oregon on Sept 22, 2017 16:19:01 GMT -5
Why I enjoy cutting open rocks, just to see what's inside... Local creek find, thought this might be a jasper/agate wood replacement (though there's not much of that on the west side of the cascades) But just looks like some jasper mix. It's a bit redder/oranger in real life (cellphone) but I thought the little translucent parts were clear agate, until I noticed the water clear from those spots quickly. Seems like they look like some sort of silvery metallic grainy substance under the loop. Any ideas what they might be? Just curious. Sorta scattered pockets throughout, but bands in the upper maroon part in the last photo... (Still waiting on pbucket to drop the ax on me..) backside inside:
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