rocknewb101
fully equipped rock polisher
Member since October 2022
Posts: 1,368
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Post by rocknewb101 on Sept 17, 2023 17:32:55 GMT -5
Hi all - I wonder if someone can offer some insight...clearly I'm struggling here - what on earth happened? It was not this bad....I did try to go back to the 220 wheel after the 280 soft wasn't getting out all of the scratches after about 30 mins of trying - but holy wow, now it's three times worse. Is this salvageable? Is it because the dome is flat? What would you do with this? Ugh. I did not feel like I was pushing hard at all, but also trying not to allow it to skip along the wheels - too new of a wheel yet? Should I try the 360 lap on the side? This was formed from a slab of pigeon blood agate.   This is the technique I try to follow when I cab - although I'm thinking maybe I rush things - I need to make a mental note to slow down and take my time with each step. Thank you. |
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Post by rockjunquie on Sept 17, 2023 17:36:10 GMT -5
Those look like 80 grit scratches. You need to spend more time on the 220.
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realrockhound
Cave Dweller 
Chucking leaverite at tweekers
Member since June 2020
Posts: 4,495
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Post by realrockhound on Sept 17, 2023 17:38:55 GMT -5
Yup. Way more time on the 220
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Tommy
Administrator 
Member since January 2013
Posts: 12,987
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Post by Tommy on Sept 17, 2023 17:44:43 GMT -5
Is this salvageable? Is it because the dome is flat? What would you do with this? I would say yes and yes - it's because the dome is flat on top and it is salvageable. A flat topped dome becomes a hotbed of (eta: 80 grit) scratches that are almost impossible to get out and you've got some really deep ones there. What I would do echoes what rockjunquie said but I would take it one step farther - go back to around 200 grit (or lower) metal wheels and work on your dome shape. When it becomes a continuous curve when viewed from all directions then it's time to go back to soft wheels. |
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rocknewb101
fully equipped rock polisher
Member since October 2022
Posts: 1,368
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Post by rocknewb101 on Sept 17, 2023 17:48:56 GMT -5
Those look like 80 grit scratches. You need to spend more time on the 220. That's what I wondered. Ugh. Thank you!! I'm so afraid to wear off material that I'm rushing, I think. Will try again.  Yup. Way more time on the 220 Thank you! Will go back again. Is this salvageable? Is it because the dome is flat? What would you do with this? I would say yes and yes - it's because the dome is flat on top and it is salvageable. A flat topped dome becomes a hotbed of (eta: 80 grit) scratches that are almost impossible to get out and you've got some really deep ones there. What I would do echoes what rockjunquie said but I would take it one step farther - go back to around 200 grit (or lower) metal wheels and work on your dome shape. When it becomes a continuous curve when viewed from all directions then it's time to go back to soft wheels. Thank you!!! I wondered about the dome. Will work to round it better. Appreciate everyone's comments. |
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Post by rockjunquie on Sept 17, 2023 17:53:18 GMT -5
Don't give up that will be a killer cab!
The 220 is going to remove down to the bottom of the 80 grit scratches. If that's where you stop (and you should) then it isn't removing much more material.
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khara
fully equipped rock polisher
Member since September 2022
Posts: 1,980
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Post by khara on Sept 17, 2023 18:25:09 GMT -5
Look forward to seeing your finished cab. Thanks for the video link, hadn’t seen that one before.👍
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Post by parfive on Sept 17, 2023 18:46:33 GMT -5
Flat top isn’t your problem, I see enough curve in the side view.
If you started on an 80, I’d make a 100 hard the next stop and check that carefully with a loupe before moving on.
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Post by jasoninsd on Sept 17, 2023 19:03:17 GMT -5
So...I'm just throwing this out there...
I've actually been studying that first picture for a lot longer than I should have! LOL - I'm not convinced you don't have a diamond "clump" on your 80 grit wheel which is sticking up higher than the rest of the surface.
If it were me...and that's the caveat...I'd think about taking a chunk of the hardest agate you have and running it over the surface of the 80 grit for a bit in order to try and knock that clump off there. I'd put a "little" pressure on it while moving it around. I have a chunk of Flor de Durazno for just this purpose...it's wicked hard material.
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rocknewb101
fully equipped rock polisher
Member since October 2022
Posts: 1,368
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Post by rocknewb101 on Sept 18, 2023 7:09:51 GMT -5
Don't give up that will be a killer cab!
The 220 is going to remove down to the bottom of the 80 grit scratches. If that's where you stop (and you should) then it isn't removing much more material.
THanks so much! I spent more on this slab than I usually would have because I love the material so I really want it to work lol...I'll take more time on 220 and share back... |
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rocknewb101
fully equipped rock polisher
Member since October 2022
Posts: 1,368
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Post by rocknewb101 on Sept 18, 2023 7:11:13 GMT -5
Look forward to seeing your finished cab. Thanks for the video link, hadn’t seen that one before.👍 Thanks!! It's a hard video to find for some reason - I always have to search just right or I can never find it. Finally saved it because I think it's a good thing to reference back to. |
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rocknewb101
fully equipped rock polisher
Member since October 2022
Posts: 1,368
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Post by rocknewb101 on Sept 18, 2023 7:12:44 GMT -5
Flat top isn’t your problem, I see enough curve in the side view. If you started on an 80, I’d make a 100 hard the next stop and check that carefully with a loupe before moving on. Thank you!! I don't have a 100 disc and I know I can do it with what I have so somewhat hesitant to add more to the equation. I did that with my slant lap and did not really notice that it helped. I just have to get better at recognizing the different level scratching. |
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rocknewb101
fully equipped rock polisher
Member since October 2022
Posts: 1,368
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Post by rocknewb101 on Sept 18, 2023 7:24:08 GMT -5
So...I'm just throwing this out there... I've actually been studying that first picture for a lot longer than I should have! LOL - I'm not convinced you don't have a diamond "clump" on your 80 grit wheel which is sticking up higher than the rest of the surface. If it were me...and that's the caveat...I'd think about taking a chunk of the hardest agate you have and running it over the surface of the 80 grit for a bit in order to try and knock that clump off there. I'd put a "little" pressure on it while moving it around. I have a chunk of Flor de Durazno for just this purpose...it's wicked hard material. I've been thinking about this same thing and I swear I can feel it sometimes - especially when I'm trying to go real light on the wheel, something will catch - I notice on the 220 too. I did take a chunk of an agate - can't recall what now - when I first got it, and ran it over, but I don't think I did it long enough. Will try again - I got some amazing looking montana agate rocks from Dan (kinesava) that I think I'll cut in two and face polish one of them. They are 3-4" long so should be plenty big enough. I do have other agates that I could use - even a pet wood disc, but I'm loathe to ruin that so I'll hold it a bit longer. Thanks, Jason! |
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rocknewb101
fully equipped rock polisher
Member since October 2022
Posts: 1,368
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Post by rocknewb101 on Sept 18, 2023 7:27:17 GMT -5
Thanks everyone - I went back and forth on whether or not I should share this - it's pretty embarrassing - thank you all for the judgement free zone and for the great suggestions. I often refer people here because I think it's just the darn best community I've ever belonged to and without getting all sappy I just want to say THANK YOU.
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Post by hummingbirdstones on Sept 18, 2023 9:23:06 GMT -5
Peta, I agree with Jason. I think you have a diamond clump on your wheel that's causing those scratches. Also agree with him on getting a hard agate and working it really good on that wheel to break it in. If you have one with an "edge" and use the edge, you might be able to tell where on the wheel you need to concentrate your efforts. Give it a good workout. Spend a good half hour (or more) on it with some harder pressure.
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rocknewb101
fully equipped rock polisher
Member since October 2022
Posts: 1,368
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Post by rocknewb101 on Sept 18, 2023 9:59:12 GMT -5
Peta, I agree with Jason. I think you have a diamond clump on your wheel that's causing those scratches. Also agree with him on getting a hard agate and working it really good on that wheel to break it in. If you have one with an "edge" and use the edge, you might be able to tell where on the wheel you need to concentrate your efforts. Give it a good workout. Spend a good half hour (or more) on it with some harder pressure. Thanks, Robin!! I'm leaning that way too. I will do this before I take anything back to the wheels. I couldn't wait to work this pigeon blood and seems while I've learned patience with my tumbling, I've not learned it with my cabbing ha! Thanks much! |
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realrockhound
Cave Dweller
Chucking leaverite at tweekers
Member since June 2020
Posts: 4,495
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Post by realrockhound on Sept 18, 2023 11:57:17 GMT -5
I don’t know if we’ve discussed this before. But here’s a method I use.
1: cut initial dome on 80 grit. After shaped, apply lighter pressure and try your best to remove all flat spots etc until you have a nice even dome.
2: move to 220 and essentially shape the dome again. Don’t be scared to take a layer off. After domed, apply light pressure and remove flat spots.
3: move to 280 soft. Repeat steps.
4: once to 600, essentially repeat other steps. Hardness of the stones will dictate pressure applied. Be sure to wipe face off and allow to dry before proceeding between grits. It will allow you to see if you have uniform abrasions.
I’m no cab master by any means as I’m essentially still new myself. But this method has never failed me. Unless something else is going on.
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rocknewb101
fully equipped rock polisher
Member since October 2022
Posts: 1,368
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Post by rocknewb101 on Sept 18, 2023 13:05:23 GMT -5
I don’t know if we’ve discussed this before. But here’s a method I use. 1: cut initial dome on 80 grit. After shaped, apply lighter pressure and try your best to remove all flat spots etc until you have a nice even dome. 2: move to 220 and essentially shape the dome again. Don’t be scared to take a layer off. After domed, apply light pressure and remove flat spots. 3: move to 280 soft. Repeat steps. 4: once to 600, essentially repeat other steps. Hardness of the stones will dictate pressure applied. Be sure to wipe face off and allow to dry before proceeding between grits. It will allow you to see if you have uniform abrasions. I’m no cab master by any means as I’m essentially still new myself. But this method has never failed me. Unless something else is going on. THank you! This is definitely helpful! As mentioned prior, I think I'm rushing myself through the steps. I need to take a breath, and slow down. I'm so eager to shape up all of my amazing slabs that I need to take some of the lesser amazing and just work them until i get them to where they should be. I know this, but when I sit down I get all giddy lol...Can't wait to see what polishes up. |
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Post by stardiamond on Sept 18, 2023 13:09:07 GMT -5
I work on a lot of hard material, so I am always battling scratches. I start with 3 different 80 grit wheels. Since I like to work fast, I start with a textured 80 grit that leaves Mariana Trench deep scratches. I move on to another textured 80 grit that has lost a lot of it's bite and then on to a very worn DP 80 grit. The 280 soft is the most overused wheel. Deep scratches laugh at a 220 grit hard. Scratches do a good job of hiding from me. I don't see them until polishing even though I inspect frequently. I try to refine my technique to hit all the of the face. My scratches look like ||| |||. Yours are random. I kind of agree with Jason but have not experienced anything like that.
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realrockhound
Cave Dweller
Chucking leaverite at tweekers
Member since June 2020
Posts: 4,495
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Post by realrockhound on Sept 18, 2023 13:09:33 GMT -5
I don’t know if we’ve discussed this before. But here’s a method I use. 1: cut initial dome on 80 grit. After shaped, apply lighter pressure and try your best to remove all flat spots etc until you have a nice even dome. 2: move to 220 and essentially shape the dome again. Don’t be scared to take a layer off. After domed, apply light pressure and remove flat spots. 3: move to 280 soft. Repeat steps. 4: once to 600, essentially repeat other steps. Hardness of the stones will dictate pressure applied. Be sure to wipe face off and allow to dry before proceeding between grits. It will allow you to see if you have uniform abrasions. I’m no cab master by any means as I’m essentially still new myself. But this method has never failed me. Unless something else is going on. THank you! This is definitely helpful! As mentioned prior, I think I'm rushing myself through the steps. I need to take a breath, and slow down. I'm so eager to shape up all of my amazing slabs that I need to take some of the lesser amazing and just work them until i get them to where they should be. I know this, but when I sit down I get all giddy lol...Can't wait to see what polishes up. It all comes with time. It’s not uncommon for me to spend over an hour on a cab. |
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