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Post by glennz01 on Feb 2, 2024 19:04:36 GMT -5
So I can currently make a batch of 60 cabs in between 15 and 20 hours.
1st wheel is 80 grit, but it seems like there could be another grit that may be more efficient at rough grinding?
2nd wheel is 1000 grit which in most cases using this grit takes me 2 min and transitions amazingly to the 280 grit soft wheel
Currently my only mods from standard are all my resin wheels are premium wheels from Baltic abrasives.
So what has everyone found that may be a faster wheel than just the standard 80 grit and maintain quality for all rock types? Also possibly a different 1st soft wheel?
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Post by stardiamond on Feb 2, 2024 19:21:10 GMT -5
The 80 grit BA textured wheel eats rock, doesn't chip but does leave deep scratches. My second wheel is a worn 80 grit DP wheel for refining the shape and removing scratches.
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realrockhound
Cave Dweller 
Chucking leaverite at tweekers
Member since June 2020
Posts: 4,483
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Post by realrockhound on Feb 2, 2024 19:34:32 GMT -5
80 to 1000? Lemme see these cabs
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Post by rockjunquie on Feb 2, 2024 19:37:59 GMT -5
I start with a sintered 60 grit wheel. I exchanged the 280 soft for a 220 soft. Works for me and I do like to cab fast. Sometimes, I get ahead of myself. LOL!
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Post by glennz01 on Feb 2, 2024 19:44:10 GMT -5
80 to 1000? Lemme see these cabs I'll probably start a new batch of some amount next week, finishing up a batch of 60 in a few days as I do a stage a day usually, sometimes 2 since I wait for them to dry and check in between |
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Post by glennz01 on Feb 2, 2024 19:45:25 GMT -5
I start with a sintered 60 grit wheel. I exchanged the 280 soft for a 220 soft. Works for me and I do like to cab fast. Sometimes, I get ahead of myself. LOL! How big are the scratches compared to 80 grit? If not much more I'd think the 1,000 grit would be fine transition still |
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Post by rockjunquie on Feb 2, 2024 19:47:27 GMT -5
I start with a sintered 60 grit wheel. I exchanged the 280 soft for a 220 soft. Works for me and I do like to cab fast. Sometimes, I get ahead of myself. LOL! How big are the scratches compared to 80 grit? If not much more I'd think the 1,000 grit would be fine transition still They are about the same. It's chippy til you break it in. |
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Post by glennz01 on Feb 2, 2024 19:47:42 GMT -5
The 80 grit BA textured wheel eats rock, doesn't chip but does leave deep scratches. My second wheel is a worn 80 grit DP wheel for refining the shape and removing scratches. How big of scratches compared to a reletivily new 80 grit standard wheel? |
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Post by stardiamond on Feb 2, 2024 20:17:58 GMT -5
I like to cut fast and with a heavy hand. The scratches are the same width as a regular 80, but a little deeper.
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Post by glennz01 on Feb 2, 2024 20:51:57 GMT -5
I like to cut fast and with a heavy hand. The scratches are the same width as a regular 80, but a little deeper. Ok, that how I grind as well as I'm usually taking off a bit of material if I'm working up end cuts and stuff. What the rough time difference on say an agate between the 2? |
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Post by parfive on Feb 2, 2024 22:21:55 GMT -5
At this point, it's apparent that 1000 grit 2nd wheel is not a typo.
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jone
starting to spend too much on rocks
Member since February 2023
Posts: 112
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Post by jone on Feb 2, 2024 23:22:34 GMT -5
60 cabs in 15- 20 hours ??
That’s not a hobby anymore…that’s an occupation !!
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Post by glennz01 on Feb 3, 2024 2:23:05 GMT -5
60 cabs in 15- 20 hours ?? That’s not a hobby anymore…that’s an occupation !! I make income that usually goes back into equipment lol, or gas to get more rocks. Maybe some day I'll do it where it can pay bills (soon would be nice) |
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Post by glennz01 on Feb 3, 2024 2:25:43 GMT -5
At this point, it's apparent that 1000 grit 2nd wheel is not a typo. Best thing I've ever discovered. I used to hate 220 hard to 280 soft transition as it took forever it seemed, now rough grinding is my most time consuming I think. 800, 1600 and 3000 all take about 2 min per cab average |
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Post by stardiamond on Feb 3, 2024 19:54:42 GMT -5
After the second 80 grit wheel, all work is sanding through polishing. Shaping is complete. Two things limit my speed; taking frequent breaks to get off my feet and reviewing progress and having to go back because of discovering scratches. I would hope that technique would hit all of the area but it doesn't for me. The frequency of having to go back is dependent on the hardness of the material. Morgan Hill is very forgiving. Montana, Blue Mountain and gem Owyhee are not.
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Post by glennz01 on Feb 4, 2024 1:38:38 GMT -5
After the second 80 grit wheel, all work is sanding through polishing. Shaping is complete. Two things limit my speed; taking frequent breaks to get off my feet and reviewing progress and having to go back because of discovering scratches. I would hope that technique would hit all of the area but it doesn't for me. The frequency of having to go back is dependent on the hardness of the material. Morgan Hill is very forgiving. Montana, Blue Mountain and gem Owyhee are not. As in speed I'm meaning physical grinding speed per wheel. I let everything dry and use sharpie between every step though I'd like to find a good non ink marking alternative as well so things don't penitrate as I sometimes forget which stones I stabalize with superglue when I use acetone to remove any sharpie after final polish if it's porous stone. Next reply will have more on the thought of time with my process |
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Post by glennz01 on Feb 4, 2024 1:59:14 GMT -5
I make income that usually goes back into equipment lol, or gas to get more rocks. Maybe some day I'll do it where it can pay bills (soon would be nice) Do you like to do that? I can't imagine getting so invested in the hobby that I make 60 cabs per weekend. IMO if it's for profit, a few designer cabs might be worth more than 50 ovals, if you follow a standard like that. But I honestly don't know because I'm nowhere near that deep. IDK even 60 people that I would talk to in a year, let alone make a cab for. I shouldn't pour cold water on your ambitions though, we all have different goals that are equally valid. Tumble-finishing might be ideal? A vibratory doesn't reduce much. Here's a quote from a faceter that was eye-opening to me. "Studies of optical finishing for technical optics have shown that, in general, one must remove material to a embedded in media so their effective cutting depth is less than 9mm. You'd have to work the surface over at least 100 times with 9 micron to abrade .885mm. I'm too lazy to do more math but it might be faster to use intermediate grit wheels? Or tumble. Edit: I'm all theory and no experience so please forgive If I made incorrect assumptions. I see you do go back to 280 after 1000 grit. I know the difference between hard n soft wheel grits isn't exactly obvious but it sounds like you know what you're doing. Can you explain more how you started to go in that order and why it's amazing compared to going straight to 280 resin or running through 100-220-400-600 hard? 60 cabs takes me roughly a week depending on my heavy equipment or snor removal jobs (self employed). If I have no work maybe slightly less time. On 60 cabs I spend roughly 2 hrs per wheel, 1 hr in between stages with a sharpie examining scratches after everything dries. Usually I'll complete 1 wheel and at least 1 inspection in a day, sometimes 2 wheels in a day if I feel like it. Most of my shapes are free form though ovals are also easy. Few hearts at times. All different materials usually. On my Facebook group Alaskan Lapidary the cover photo you can see my current batch. Largest reason why the "extreme" grit change as conventional 220 grit to 280 grit, both new wheels, I might spend 10 to 30 min getting out the scratches fully on things like clear Montana agate where it needs to be perfect. Before 1000 grit I tried 600 grit but it was still taking way too long. 1000 grit hard you can still remove a surprising amount of material, and takes about 2 min for a good 25x30 sized agate cab grinding on all sides (more grinding on the flat sides usually) Softer materials take hardly any time at all like malachite. It's also usually easy to see when you removed at least most scratches. Someone else asked to see the difference between 80 grit and 1000 grit so I may just post a video when I start a new batch. Likiley a smaller batch. 60 cabs is my "magic number as each cab is usually $25, some more and some if very small at $20. I try to make at least $1,500 a month income from all work every month to live, not the greatest income but I know how to make it work. So with cabs some might sell now, some may be years later, but I never kniw when I will have too much other work that I'm too busy to play with rocks like in summer since I'm finding or working a lot. My Facebook group has roughly 1,100 people on it, mist just like to see all the pretty rocks I make but some people see things they can't resist, like a local rockhound that couldn't resist some local calcite that is insanely uv reactive. Plus this month alone I've had a lot of lapidary equipment replacements, my tumbler motor (1/3hp) and 14 inch rock saw motor among with other things decided to burn up or break. Not fun but they get a lot of use. Good motors being roughly $300 ea |
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Post by stardiamond on Feb 4, 2024 12:27:26 GMT -5
I make a lot more cabs than I sell and if I sold more, I would be motivated to make more. My average cab sells for around $35 and I sell around 10. From an ego standpoint I would like to be selling more. My goal was to make the hobby self funding, paying for material, equipment and supplies. I have been able to do that. I like making cabs. I make them and list them and let the rest take care of itself.
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Post by glennz01 on Feb 4, 2024 12:56:06 GMT -5
I make a lot more cabs than I sell and if I sold more, I would be motivated to make more. My average cab sells for around $35 and I sell around 10. From an ego standpoint I would like to be selling more. My goal was to make the hobby self funding, paying for material, equipment and supplies. I have been able to do that. I like making cabs. I make them and list them and let the rest take care of itself. Yeah, depending on your materials, price may be a little more than most people want to pay, China is competition lol. If you make a facebook group for yourself you'll sell more eventually. I don't yet have customers for most of my cabs, but some day most should sell. Partly why I try to keep time to a minimum |
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Post by stardiamond on Feb 4, 2024 14:33:22 GMT -5
I look for expensive material at a good price. That is part of the hobby for me. I don't compete with India or China. I also don't have sales or coupons. I'm not looking to undercut prices for those who are trying to make wages selling. I tried selling on one of the facebook pages and sold one cab. There is a two tier system at Cabs and slabs. Selling as a guest; days and items are restricted. They also did an image scan before approving posts to check that the cab wasn't being offered elsewhere. I had posts rejected when they were ok. I tend to use the same shapes and material. If the mod looked closely he could see the difference.
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