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Post by christopherl1234 on Oct 11, 2011 1:28:52 GMT -5
saw blade looks a little high
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Post by johnjsgems on Oct 11, 2011 10:03:35 GMT -5
Most saws are built with arbor under the carriage. The cut is made with the top 1/3 of blade. With a splash lube system the blade has to reach the oil in the sump. If you use a pump I guess the blade can be over like a drop saw.
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NDK
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Member since January 2009
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Post by NDK on Oct 12, 2011 15:08:45 GMT -5
Thanks guys. I know the vise has to be higher, I just have it sitting together in that pic to get some rough measurements to see what the cabinet size needs to be.
I think I have a line on a 14" saw locally (it's listed as a different saw on craigslist, but from the vague discription, I think it's a slab saw), so I'm holding off on any more work on this build until after this weekend.
Nate
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Post by jakesrocks on Oct 12, 2011 15:29:28 GMT -5
Good luck on that 14" saw Nate. But don't give up on the home built. It's interesting watching the progress.
Don
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NDK
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Post by NDK on Oct 12, 2011 18:47:42 GMT -5
Well the guy called me back tonight about the 14" saw. It's a masonry saw set up like the sliding table tile saws we're all familiar with. That's a no-go, so I'm back to building this saw.
Nate
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Post by johnjsgems on Oct 12, 2011 19:45:32 GMT -5
With your blade mounted over your saw will be very similar to a sliding table masonry saw. By the way, my HP 24" has left hand threads and vise is on right side of blade. I believe all the HP's are that way.
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NDK
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Post by NDK on Oct 12, 2011 20:42:39 GMT -5
John, I'm not building the saw exactly as pictured above. I just have the arbor sitting on a box to keep the blade off the cement. The vise will be mounted higher, so it passes above the blade flanges (which I also need bigger ones of). I just laid it out so looking down on it I could get width and length measurements for the cabinet.
So the arbor thread direction doesn't matter on these saws? I thougth a large blade like this would be putting excessive force on the nut, easily loosening it while running. The flanges must work as a lock washer of sorts? Still, I don't mind building it "backwards" - I'm left handed ;D
Nate
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Post by Rockoonz on Oct 12, 2011 20:43:22 GMT -5
The problem with using Acme threads in a fock saw is since the threads are square form little bits of rock can get wedged into the rod. If the allthread is prone to bending best thing is to increase the diameter.
Lee
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NDK
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Post by NDK on Oct 12, 2011 20:48:04 GMT -5
Thanks Lee, I didn't know there was a difference in the cut of the threads.
Nate
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quartz
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breakin' rocks in the hot sun
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Post by quartz on Oct 12, 2011 22:36:49 GMT -5
Grade 5 allthread is available, much stronger than hardware store grade 2, which is one step above modeling clay. Grainger or McMaster-Carr. Fastenall has A193 [4140 alloy] threaded rod, strong stuff.
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Post by johnjsgems on Oct 13, 2011 8:41:49 GMT -5
If the blade nut is on left side (viewed from front) the threads need to be left hand. Otherwise the nut will back off while turning. The blade flange washers need to be 1/6 the blade diameter. When building the box, allow plenty of room to operate the cross feed crank.
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Post by jakesrocks on Oct 13, 2011 8:51:11 GMT -5
Amen to room for the cross feed crank. Lost some knuckle skin yesterday cranking the handle on my 16" Covington.
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Post by johnjsgems on Oct 13, 2011 9:37:33 GMT -5
I happened to be at Barranca/MK when they were developing their HP14 saw. They showed me the prototype and said " now we are rebuilding the tank so we can access the cross feed" . Seems to be a common mistake.
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NDK
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Post by NDK on Oct 13, 2011 14:31:33 GMT -5
Thanks for the tip on the crossfeed crank guys. I'll add a few inches to my measurements.
Nate
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Post by Rockoonz on Oct 14, 2011 5:33:39 GMT -5
If the blade nut is on left side (viewed from front) the threads need to be left hand. Otherwise the nut will back off while turning. The blade flange washers need to be 1/6 the blade diameter. When building the box, allow plenty of room to operate the cross feed crank. Good point, John. Nate you should probably turn the vice the other direction on your carriage so your crossfeed crank will be on the right and the blade arbor on the left so you don't have the added expense of a left handed thread on your arbor. Lee
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NDK
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Post by NDK on Oct 14, 2011 14:43:57 GMT -5
Thanks Lee. The arbor does have left hand threads, that's why I mocked it up that way.
Nate
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Post by jakesrocks on Oct 14, 2011 14:54:29 GMT -5
Don't worry about the right side blade and left side vice Nate. The old Star Diamond saws used that setup for many years without problems.
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Post by Rockoonz on Oct 14, 2011 15:06:23 GMT -5
D-oh! I did read that about the left hand threads. That old short term memory loss thing still does come up from time to time.
Lee
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NDK
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Post by NDK on Oct 14, 2011 15:38:09 GMT -5
LOL Lee, no big deal. Thanks Don, I wasn't worried. It just looks a lil weird from the saws out there now. Actually putting it together this way will work nicely if I can fit it in my garage where I want to.
Nate
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NDK
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Post by NDK on Oct 14, 2011 21:11:37 GMT -5
I got a little work done on the tub this afternoon. I'm building it like this to save some room and not need so much oil. I'd like to tuck the motor under there, but I don't think it'll fit. It's built with 5/8" plywood I got off some old speed racks from work for freeee ;D I'm debating if I wanna make the top plexi-glass, or just use plywood. Any suggestions? Hope you're enjoying watching as much as I'm enjoying building, Nate
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