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Post by jakesrocks on Oct 14, 2011 23:08:33 GMT -5
Nate, you might want to leave a little more room between the blade and side of the tub. Lots of rocks have a lot of fractured material on the ends that you'll want to remove before starting to slab. Those big end nubs may jamb between the blade and tub. Also, with your blade sitting above the vice rails, it will have a tendency to kick your slabs towards the back of the saw. Leave enough room to get your hand in there to retrieve them.
Don
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Post by johnjsgems on Oct 15, 2011 8:02:33 GMT -5
What Don said. Even more room and you can cut geodes/nodules, etc. Even thick slabs need more space.
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NDK
Cave Dweller
Member since January 2009
Posts: 9,440
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Post by NDK on Oct 15, 2011 18:42:13 GMT -5
I was planning on having about 6" behind the blade where the arbor is sitting, and about an inch behind the blade underneath. Does that sound like enough? I figured the slabs would fall onto the shelf behind the blade.
Nate
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Post by jakesrocks on Oct 15, 2011 19:29:38 GMT -5
With the blade on the right side of the vice, slabs will fall on the right side of the blade. Make sure that your shelf isn't more than 1/8" away from the blade, or else you run the chance of the slabs getting stuck between the blade and shelf. 6" of space between the blade and right side of the tub is more than enough.
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NDK
Cave Dweller
Member since January 2009
Posts: 9,440
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Post by NDK on Oct 15, 2011 21:47:48 GMT -5
I am going to put a piece of expanded or light sheet metal fastened to the shelf to close the gap between the tub wall and the blade. I've seen similar on pictures of other saws.
Nate
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Post by jakesrocks on Oct 15, 2011 21:56:04 GMT -5
1/4" expanded metal would work good. It'll let cutting oil and rock snot drain through. They also make perforated sheet aluminum. It has 3/16" holes in it. Don
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NDK
Cave Dweller
Member since January 2009
Posts: 9,440
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Post by NDK on Oct 17, 2011 17:04:02 GMT -5
I got a little more work done on the tub today. I'm certainly no cabinet maker, but I think it'll work OK once I seal it. I'm debating putting a window in the hood. Any pro's or con's? I'm sure it gets dirty easy. Does it clean off easy too? It's getting closer! Nate
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Post by jakesrocks on Oct 17, 2011 17:22:58 GMT -5
Nate, I hate the plastic windows they put in saws. They're easy enough to clean, but they scratch easy and soon become hard to see through. My personal preference would be a piece of safety glass. The type with 2 layers of glass with chicken wire sandwiched between. It would add weight to the lid, but would clean easy and not scratch as easy.
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Post by tandl on Oct 17, 2011 17:38:33 GMT -5
Windows in mine are on the sides of the hood . i Would put one in , it is nice to see what`s going on .
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Post by johnjsgems on Oct 17, 2011 18:59:51 GMT -5
My HP has a plexi window in the top. The only thing it is good for is to see if the pump hoses are lined up and squirting. Not easy to see even that. Since your blade is over I'm assuming you plan on using a pump also. I would pump out of a tank under the saw. It would be easier than sealing a wood tank to hold oil.
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NDK
Cave Dweller
Member since January 2009
Posts: 9,440
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Post by NDK on Oct 17, 2011 20:38:31 GMT -5
Thanks Ted, I never thought of putting the window in the side of the tub. Don, I was thinking it would scratch easily too. I don't know what a piece of that glass would cost. I'll have to think about it, but I do like Ted's idea of a side window. I'm guessing it doesn't have to be too big.
John, I'm not using a pump. I'm going to seal the tub with the fiberglass auto body stuff, and fill it with oil. I figure I'll need about 5 gallons, and thats should be 2" of oil. The blade is about an inch from the bottom, so that should be plenty.
Nate
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Post by jakesrocks on Oct 17, 2011 21:01:34 GMT -5
Man Nate, I've got half a role of glass cloth out in my shed, just going to waste. I don't play with that itchy, smelly stuff anymore. PM me your addy, and I'll see if I can refold it to fit in a box. Don
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Post by johnjsgems on Oct 17, 2011 21:08:22 GMT -5
I must be viewing picture wrong. The earlier shots looked like blade was above the vise. If vise is over splash lubrication will work fine. You only need to cover blade cutting rim. Overfilling will cause a lot of splashing. The splashing oil will find every little place to leak out.
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Post by beefjello on Oct 18, 2011 8:16:46 GMT -5
Wow, great project you got going on here Nate!!!
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geomorph
starting to shine!
Member since May 2011
Posts: 28
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Post by geomorph on Oct 18, 2011 14:11:42 GMT -5
Awesome work so far. This may be a project that I will try someday. I hope to keep learning by watching your efforts. Cheers, Tyler
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NDK
Cave Dweller
Member since January 2009
Posts: 9,440
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Post by NDK on Oct 18, 2011 15:33:07 GMT -5
Thanks Tyler & Brian. It's shaping up nicely. I'm really proud of what I've got done so far. Don PM sent - Thank you! John, you're right, you must be looking at the pix wrong The vise is at the top of the blade now. That was my intent all along. Nate
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Post by jakesrocks on Oct 20, 2011 15:49:40 GMT -5
Nate, just a quick suggestion. For the spray guard that will go over the blade, try to find a bicycle front fender. It will be easy to attach to the back of the tub, and already has the curve you'll need. Easy to cut to size too.
Don
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NDK
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Member since January 2009
Posts: 9,440
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Post by NDK on Oct 20, 2011 16:25:00 GMT -5
Good idea Don. I'll prolly end up buying a new one though, not many fendered 16" bikes layin around here. Otherwise gettign a piece of tubing bent close then cutting it in half would do the trick too.
Nate
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mossyrockhound
fully equipped rock polisher
Member since January 2011
Posts: 1,314
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Post by mossyrockhound on Oct 23, 2011 1:23:33 GMT -5
Great project Nate! The vise looks great, but I was wondering if you can tighten it down enough with the screw handle to firmly hold a rock while cutting. I have a similar design on my big saw and I ended up bending the threaded stock trying to get it tight enough to hold the rock in the vise.
I always grab the rock in my vise and try to get it to come loose before turning on the saw. If I can move it, I re-position it in the vise and try to move it again. The one thing that can wreck your blade in a second is if the rock comes loose while cutting.
I suggest you attach your wood to the vise jaws and see how firmly it holds the rock. Also remember that nice clean wood holds better than old, oily wood. If it doesn't hold tight enough with the current design, I guess you could always use a "C" clamp over the top or around the back side.
I just thought I would mention this because of the problem I had.
Good luck!
Garry
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NDK
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Member since January 2009
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Post by NDK on Oct 23, 2011 12:21:26 GMT -5
Thanks for the info Garry, that is one concern I have with the vise. It was mentioned previously that hardened or acme threaded rod would be a good idea. I defiinitely do not want to frag a blade right off the bat, so I'll be very careful on my 1st cuts.
I appreciate your input! Nate
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