ziggy
spending too much on rocks
Member since June 2016
Posts: 483
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Post by ziggy on Jan 12, 2017 21:07:58 GMT -5
My first try at this kind of mount on these two pendants. Please, no complements will work at making me feel better, only a solution. First; I was wondering what I could do to make/bend the stone mount straps without messing up the surface on them like I did? I just used a piece of metal to bend them in place. Second; I was wondering if some kind of engraving would perhaps help cover up my mess ups. That big gap between the back and stone on the upper one doesn't look quite as bad from any other angle. Is copper sheet ever used for this by anyone? Will it turn green eventually? Does it need coated with something? Sheeeesh.
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Post by rockjunquie on Jan 12, 2017 21:18:54 GMT -5
I know you said no compliments, but I really think these good, esp for your first.
I have done it with copper. Did you use soft copper? If not, you can anneal with a torch to make things easier.
You can polish a lot of those marks out and you can burnish.
Yes, it will eventually turn green, if it is pure copper, but if you use liver of sulfur to give it an antique patina the finish lasts a long time and resists oxidation. I have yet to have a piece turn green.
If you look in the metal working section there are quite a few threads by Chuck, Pat and me about these settings.
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ziggy
spending too much on rocks
Member since June 2016
Posts: 483
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Post by ziggy on Jan 12, 2017 21:22:58 GMT -5
I know you said no compliments, but I really think these good, esp for your first. I have done it with copper. Did you use soft copper? If not, you can anneal with a torch to make things easier. You can polish a lot of those marks out and you can burnish. Yes, it will eventually turn green, if it is pure copper, but if you use liver of sulfur to give it an antique patina the finish lasts a long time and resists oxidation. I have yet to have a piece turn green. If you look in the metal working section there are quite a few threads by Chuck, Pat and me about these settings. It was some copper sheet I bought at the local hobby lobby. Nothing on the package about it being soft. Sweet. Thanks very much and I will do that.
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Post by rockjunquie on Jan 12, 2017 21:28:47 GMT -5
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Tommy
Administrator
Member since January 2013
Posts: 12,685
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Post by Tommy on Jan 12, 2017 22:42:55 GMT -5
You're in great hands with Tela on your questions - just wanted to *not* complement you I won't congratulate you and tell you how killer those pendants look.
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Post by toiv0 on Jan 13, 2017 0:17:17 GMT -5
Love the copper. If you have a roofing contractor by you, their scrap copper can be had for cheap if not free. I get mine for a pair of copper earrings in trade.
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Post by accidentalrockhound on Jan 13, 2017 0:52:03 GMT -5
Interesting i like them ,
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ziggy
spending too much on rocks
Member since June 2016
Posts: 483
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Post by ziggy on Jan 13, 2017 10:14:18 GMT -5
Well, thank you for the complements then if you guys insist. Those Lightning Stones are soft and if they are cabbed thin they tend to break. Especially when they are like the two long ones in the photo below. The calcite running across the stone horizontally makes it weak at those places. I've been backing some of them with copper epoxied on the back to make them stronger and a drilled tab on the top for a chain ring. The bent tab ones I made have no glue. I will keep my fingers crossed if they ever sell that they stay in one piece. I chose those two to try it out on because they don't have the cross-stone calcite weak spots.
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ziggy
spending too much on rocks
Member since June 2016
Posts: 483
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Post by ziggy on Jan 13, 2017 11:18:30 GMT -5
rockjunquie I have been using a pair of scissors to cut my copper. It works sort of ok but distorts the copper in bad ways sometimes. I see you use a jewelers saw. Are the ones at the hobby store any good? Do they sell blades at hobby stores for these? I saw a V block device that makes sawing easier. Do you use one of those? Would I be better off skipping the hobby store and getting one here?
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Post by rockjunquie on Jan 13, 2017 11:26:53 GMT -5
rockjunquie I have been using a pair of scissors to cut my copper. It works sort of ok but distorts the copper in bad ways sometimes. I see you use a jewelers saw. Are the ones at the hobby store any good? Do they sell blades at hobby stores for these? I saw a V block device that makes sawing easier. Do you use one of those? Would I be better off skipping the hobby store and getting one here? If you don't plan to do this much and if you are only doing simple shapes then french shears aka metal shears (scissors) will do. For the distortion you can use a plastic, rubber or rawhide mallet to pound it back into shape. If you plan to keep doing metal work then the saw at the link will work. You should be looking at 2/0 or 3/0 size blades for the thickness of sheet you will probably be using. You will need to be able to set up a bench pin, (v block, I think). Sawing is crazy hard without it. You will break a lot of blades, so don't be discouraged about that. That's why they sell them in big packs. Look up Nancy Hamilton videos on youtube. She has a lot of very good basic metal working videos. I like the simple glued pendants. What kind of glue did you use?
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ziggy
spending too much on rocks
Member since June 2016
Posts: 483
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Post by ziggy on Jan 13, 2017 12:27:22 GMT -5
rockjunquie I have been using a pair of scissors to cut my copper. It works sort of ok but distorts the copper in bad ways sometimes. I see you use a jewelers saw. Are the ones at the hobby store any good? Do they sell blades at hobby stores for these? I saw a V block device that makes sawing easier. Do you use one of those? Would I be better off skipping the hobby store and getting one here? I like the simple glued pendants. What kind of glue did you use? I used some 5 minute two part gorilla epoxy. Roughed up the back of the stone first.
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Post by pghram on Jan 13, 2017 12:31:22 GMT -5
Now that compliments are permitted, I really like these pendants.
Peace,
Rich
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Post by wigglinrocks on Jan 13, 2017 12:51:44 GMT -5
I think they look just fine . I used to do a lot of woodwork and learned not to point out any flaws or imperfections and no one else would notice them . If someone did notice , most had the decency to not say anything about it . We all try to do the best we can at something and if you are not pleased with the end product , try and make it better .
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ziggy
spending too much on rocks
Member since June 2016
Posts: 483
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Post by ziggy on Jan 13, 2017 13:41:25 GMT -5
I think they look just fine . I used to do a lot of woodwork and learned not to point out any flaws or imperfections and no one else would notice them . If someone did notice , most had the decency to not say anything about it . We all try to do the best we can at something and if you are not pleased with the end product , try and make it better . Being a first attempt I couldn't help but see what I thought were issues. To let others know that I know I messed up will hopefully make them more eager to help out, knowing they can't hurt my feelings with advice. To get better at it is my ultimate goal (along with eventually selling a little jewelry someday hopefully.)
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ziggy
spending too much on rocks
Member since June 2016
Posts: 483
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Post by ziggy on Jan 13, 2017 13:42:56 GMT -5
rockjunquie I have been using a pair of scissors to cut my copper. It works sort of ok but distorts the copper in bad ways sometimes. I see you use a jewelers saw. Are the ones at the hobby store any good? Do they sell blades at hobby stores for these? I saw a V block device that makes sawing easier. Do you use one of those? Would I be better off skipping the hobby store and getting one here? If you don't plan to do this much and if you are only doing simple shapes then french shears aka metal shears (scissors) will do. For the distortion you can use a plastic, rubber or rawhide mallet to pound it back into shape. If you plan to keep doing metal work then the saw at the link will work. You should be looking at 2/0 or 3/0 size blades for the thickness of sheet you will probably be using. You will need to be able to set up a bench pin, (v block, I think). Sawing is crazy hard without it. You will break a lot of blades, so don't be discouraged about that. That's why they sell them in big packs. Yes, I plan on keeping at it. Can't wait to make a nicer piece. I also just realized that I should have posted this in the metal smithing thread....oooops.
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Post by Pat on Jan 13, 2017 15:46:43 GMT -5
If you don't plan to do this much and if you are only doing simple shapes then french shears aka metal shears (scissors) will do. For the distortion you can use a plastic, rubber or rawhide mallet to pound it back into shape. If you plan to keep doing metal work then the saw at the link will work. You should be looking at 2/0 or 3/0 size blades for the thickness of sheet you will probably be using. You will need to be able to set up a bench pin, (v block, I think). Sawing is crazy hard without it. You will break a lot of blades, so don't be discouraged about that. That's why they sell them in big packs. Yes, I plan on keeping at it. Can't wait to make a nicer piece. I also just realized that I should have posted this in the metal smithing thread....oooops. There are several very good metal sheers available. I recommend the Joyce Chen shears for metal. I think for metal cutting, the term is shears, not scissors. Haven't found a decent defining definition. As Tela said, use a plastic, rubber or rawhide mallet. That is because these don't leave a mark on your piece. Keep your broken blades. They are very good for putting on just a dab of glue. Re saw blades: Rio has a nice little chart that suggests what blade to use with what blade thickness. This page is full of good information. Chart at the bottom. www.riogrande.com/Product/Laser-Gold-Saw-Blade/110313
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ziggy
spending too much on rocks
Member since June 2016
Posts: 483
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Post by ziggy on Jan 13, 2017 16:26:30 GMT -5
Yes, I plan on keeping at it. Can't wait to make a nicer piece. I also just realized that I should have posted this in the metal smithing thread....oooops. There are several very good metal sheers available. I recommend the Joyce Chen shears for metal. I think for metal cutting, the term is shears, not scissors. Haven't found a decent defining definition. As Tela said, use a plastic, rubber or rawhide mallet. That is because these don't leave a mark on your piece. Keep your broken blades. They are very good for putting on just a dab of glue. Re saw blades: Rio has a nice little chart that suggests what blade to use with what blade thickness. This page is full of good information. Chart at the bottom. www.riogrande.com/Product/Laser-Gold-Saw-Blade/110313Yep, shears sounds right with metal. Trouble is I was using Probably more made for cloth and paper I really have trouble making a clean inside corner with my "shears" and they tend to leave what I would call "overcut pinches" in the immediate area of the corner. I plan on buying a jeweler's saw. Perhaps Rio has a better deal on one of those as well. I'm going to look into it. Thanks Pat
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Post by Pat on Jan 13, 2017 16:42:39 GMT -5
A saw can give you clean inside corners. 😀
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zekesman
Cave Dweller
Member since May 2016
Posts: 637
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Post by zekesman on Jan 14, 2017 15:30:19 GMT -5
Nice job. I am lazy, I cut everything a little big with shears and use a flex shaft to clean it up. Also when you flatten the metal it will work harden. It will need to be annealed before bending the tabs. Vic
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Post by rockjunquie on Jan 14, 2017 17:48:54 GMT -5
Nice job. I am lazy, I cut everything a little big with shears and use a flex shaft to clean it up. Also when you flatten the metal it will work harden. It will need to be annealed before bending the tabs. Vic I rarely anneal unless I absolutely have to. I have successfully managed to do tab pieces, after hammering, without annealing. It is better to anneal, but not only am I lazy and in a hurry, but I worry about the tabs not being hard enough after annealing.
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