QuailRiver
fully equipped rock polisher
Member since May 2008
Posts: 1,640
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Post by QuailRiver on Sept 1, 2015 23:49:43 GMT -5
Yeah, I saw that earlier tonight. Thought it was very clever "inside the box" thinking. Larry C.
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QuailRiver
fully equipped rock polisher
Member since May 2008
Posts: 1,640
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Post by QuailRiver on Aug 31, 2015 16:13:26 GMT -5
As far as shipping goes most towns these days have at least one packing and shipping store. All you have to do is drop the item off and for a nominal fee they will package the item and make shipping arrangements for you. With this particular saw design you might need to remove the motor and have it boxed separately to prevent damage to the arm and base. Larry C.
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QuailRiver
fully equipped rock polisher
Member since May 2008
Posts: 1,640
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Post by QuailRiver on Aug 28, 2015 5:19:55 GMT -5
Very nice material! That first slab is spectacular! Larry C.
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QuailRiver
fully equipped rock polisher
Member since May 2008
Posts: 1,640
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Post by QuailRiver on Aug 27, 2015 13:44:30 GMT -5
There has been an ad for a sphere making machine for sale on Wilmington's Craigslist (North Carolina) for a few weeks now. I don't know anything about the seller or their offerings. wilmington.craigslist.org/art/5128317857.htmlLarry C.
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QuailRiver
fully equipped rock polisher
Member since May 2008
Posts: 1,640
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Post by QuailRiver on Aug 27, 2015 13:31:59 GMT -5
Resin wheels can get glazed over just like a metal diamond blade or lap can. Especially if they are used without enough water and/or too much pressure is applied. The resin coating that gets smeared over the diamonds can be removed from Nova wheels in the same way Raytech recommends removing the glazing from their diamond resin Nu-Bond laps. From the Raytech Nu-Bond instruction sheet:
"...the lap may be dressed by rotating it a moderate speed while running a piece of 220 grit silicon carbide cloth (wet/dry type) over the lap a couple of times. Use very light pressure..."
I have successfully used this method on Nu-Bond laps and Nova wheels. I have never tried it on other brands of soft resin wheels so can't speak to whether or not it will work on those. I use LOTS of water flow while dressing, and then LOTS of water afterwards to flush off any loose grit that may have come off the 220 SC cloth. And only dress for a few seconds at a time and then inspect the surface of the wheel with good magnification. Remember if you use too much pressure or dress for too long it will remove diamond particles.
Larry C.
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QuailRiver
fully equipped rock polisher
Member since May 2008
Posts: 1,640
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Post by QuailRiver on Aug 26, 2015 13:09:47 GMT -5
All of the knobs are spoken for. Thanks Everyone! Larry C.
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QuailRiver
fully equipped rock polisher
Member since May 2008
Posts: 1,640
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Post by QuailRiver on Aug 25, 2015 20:11:19 GMT -5
Okay Droseraguy and Pat. Thank you! I'll get PayPal Invoices out to you as soon as I get shipping costs. That leaves 285 knobs left folks. Larry C.
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QuailRiver
fully equipped rock polisher
Member since May 2008
Posts: 1,640
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Post by QuailRiver on Aug 25, 2015 18:10:20 GMT -5
Hello Jerry, I just tried to send a reply to your email and my email server was behaving strangely. So let me know if you received the email. If not I'll try to PM you through this board. Regards, Larry C.
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QuailRiver
fully equipped rock polisher
Member since May 2008
Posts: 1,640
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Post by QuailRiver on Aug 25, 2015 13:07:40 GMT -5
Yes if you would like to change the appearance to a brighter, or an antiqued tarnished look, soaking them in acetone or lacquer thinner either one for a few hours would dissolve the acrylic lacquer coating. Paint stripper would dissolve it in just a few minutes. Larry C.
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QuailRiver
fully equipped rock polisher
Member since May 2008
Posts: 1,640
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Post by QuailRiver on Aug 25, 2015 1:27:37 GMT -5
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QuailRiver
fully equipped rock polisher
Member since May 2008
Posts: 1,640
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Post by QuailRiver on Aug 25, 2015 1:10:52 GMT -5
Solid Brass Cabinet/Furniture Knobs for Cabs Count - *SOLD* I recently had the opportunity to purchase part of the remaining inventory of a large high-end Furniture manufacturing plant that closed down here in North Carolina. Among the inventory I obtained were fourteen and a half boxes of twenty-five each (360 knobs total) of these solid brass machine turned knobs that are ideal for mounting cabochons in to make really unique cabinet and furniture hardware. These knobs are machine turned from solid brass so there are no unsightly seams as are found on the cheap die-cast knobs sold at the home improvement box stores. Also these knobs are coated with satin sheen acrylic lacquer to resist tarnishing. They have a 1/16" deep center inset and will accept an approximately 37mm round Cabochon. The overall measurements without a stone is 42mm in diameter by 25mm from front to back. Cabs will need to be epoxied in place. I would recommend not polishing the backs of the cabs and scuffing up the surface of the recessed area before gluing for better adhesion. I am offering these knobs for $1.00 each (plus shipping) or $22.00 per full box of twenty-five (plus shipping). Various views of a few of these knobs may be seen in the seven photos below. The two photos with cabs have cabs photoshopped in place. Cabs are not included in sale. Anyone interested please post how many you would like on this thread so others will have an idea of how many are left available, and please send me an email with your order to and I will send you a PayPal Invoice. Orders will be filled on a first received e-mail bases. Thank you for looking! Larry C.
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QuailRiver
fully equipped rock polisher
Member since May 2008
Posts: 1,640
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Post by QuailRiver on Aug 12, 2015 0:21:33 GMT -5
There are some varieties of turquoise that are found with a black/gray chert and/or quartz matrix. I'm wondering if your piece might be one of those with more matrix than turquoise present?
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QuailRiver
fully equipped rock polisher
Member since May 2008
Posts: 1,640
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Post by QuailRiver on Aug 3, 2015 17:20:09 GMT -5
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QuailRiver
fully equipped rock polisher
Member since May 2008
Posts: 1,640
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Post by QuailRiver on Jul 22, 2015 4:55:12 GMT -5
Forgot.. for cleaning? I mod'd the unit by drilling a hole in the front of the oil sump attaching an evap cooler drain assy, attached a hose to that, and then the oil drains into a 5 gallon bucket with the overflow set at 3 gallons which allows most of the crud to settle before the oil flows into a second 3 gallon bucket where the pump lives. easy to clean up, piece of cake to use. And it's in the garage, not outside. Thank you for the info Phil! I had been thinking about doing something like that to help keep the oil clean. The LS-14 I just bought a couple of weeks ago had a bad switch which I haven't gotten around to replacing yet but hope to get done later this week and then give it a try. After reading Mel's review I'm still wondering if I should keep a priest on speed dial just encase this thing needs an exorcism down the road! Larry C.
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QuailRiver
fully equipped rock polisher
Member since May 2008
Posts: 1,640
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Post by QuailRiver on Jul 6, 2015 23:32:32 GMT -5
I have a 14 but it is the only slab saw I have ever had so I can't compare to anything else I can just tell you how it works for me. Mine is not messy as in throwing oil all over. I run it outside without a cover but I don't appear to have any oil mess and I can stand right in front of it running without getting oil thrown on me. It is VERY difficult to drain and clean as the saw needs to be physically picked up out of the base which is the pan that holds the oil. It is heavy and awkward to lift and there is no easy way to do this. Also, as mentioned, use a tile saw for trimming, it is very difficult to see well enough to trim well with the Lortone because of the design of the saw. The good news is mine cuts well as long as I add a little weight to the arm. The vise has held everything I have tried surprisingly well even some things I had my doubt about. Thank you for the response showet. I have been wanting to try one of these saws for a long time now but hadn't seen one for sale in my area until recently. Back in May I overheard a dealer at the Franklin, NC show speaking positively about these and he had three with him at the show to use, but wasn't using them while I was near by. Then week before last I found this one locally along with some other lapidary equipment all priced together so I pounced. I wonder if there are some design, or speed operation differences between yours and Mel's that made the difference or if maybe it's a difference in the viscosity of oil you are using? The building I use my saws in also has my kiln and furniture hardwood stored in it so I have to try to keep down on oil mist as much as possible. So it sounds like from both posts that indoors is definitely a no-no in my case. Thank you very much again for sharing your experiences! Larry C.
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QuailRiver
fully equipped rock polisher
Member since May 2008
Posts: 1,640
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Post by QuailRiver on Jul 6, 2015 23:15:54 GMT -5
*snort* Any more questions? Hope someone comes along for ya Larry that had a rosier relationship! Still, wish there was a video of the final minutes of Mel's saw. That was funny as hell. LOL! Nah, I think that Mel Touched all of the bases! If you enjoy the mental picture of the last couple of minutes of Mel delving out the final death blows to his drop saw then you probably would have enjoyed the look on my wife's face as I read Mel's post to her aloud...priceless! Larry C.
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QuailRiver
fully equipped rock polisher
Member since May 2008
Posts: 1,640
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Post by QuailRiver on Jul 6, 2015 23:14:39 GMT -5
I used to have one of the dang things till I got pissed at it, took it out in the driveway and beat it to death with a hammer. Blade weight is not heavy enough to cut most hard stuff so you have to add weights to the arm. This results in shorter blade life and more dishing of course. Pump supplied with the unit was not enough to cool the blade properly unless oil was brand new with no sediment and cleaning was a booger as the dang unit has to be lifted from the base. Oil must drench both sides or the bade will bind and chatter in the cuts. Unit throws oil all over the place and is horribly messy. Wear a good oil mask as if you are in the room with it the vapor is outrageous. I built a hood for mine but it still was super messy. That type of saw is good for cutting nodules as the dropped blade aligns perpendicular to the stone pretty well, especially of you hand start it. I like the little screw leg thingee for the cut off. You get drenched in oil no matter what though. I much prefer a water cooled tile saw for trimming. Faster, more accurate and better for your health. Had my Lortone for about ten years and as you see from how it died, I grew to hate that cranky mo fo, so, for my mental health, it had to be killed *L*.....Mel LOL! Ooooookay. Anybody looking for a good deal on a Lortone LS-14 Drop Saw? This one hasn't been beat with a hammer...yet. I've been walking around spontaneously chuckling ever since I read yours and captbob's posts! I think this tells me what I needed to know. Outdoor use only and don't wear my best T-shirt when using! I think I'll coat all of the unpainted parts of this Lortone with a water resistant grease and try using this as a water saw with a fountain pump like the one I use with my Slik drop saw. I've been wanting to try the MK-62Q blades anyhow. The MK-62Q blades are made for cutting quartz and volcanic rock with water and I've seen a couple of lapidary supply companies have started stocking them so I've been curious. I guess now I have an excuse to order one. Thank you very much for the detailed response. You probably saved me an afternoon or two of frustration and maybe saved my best T-shirt too! Larry C.
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QuailRiver
fully equipped rock polisher
Member since May 2008
Posts: 1,640
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Post by QuailRiver on Jul 6, 2015 13:39:57 GMT -5
I had been on the lookout locally for a good deal on a used Lortone LS-14 drop saw now for three or four years and have finally scored one. I've not used this model before and am trying to decide where I want to set it up and how best to use it.
I've got a very old Farrara Industries Slik brand 12" inch drop saw that I only use outdoors with water for cutting softer and more porous materials. The Slik model is a different design than the Lortone and is too messy to use indoors with oil. So I was wondering what some of the folks here that have used the Lortone LS-14 Drop Saws with oil have experienced? Are they really messy? Should I build a plexiglass hood? Also what are the best applications for the LS-14 drop saws?
The saw came with a slab trimming table insert accessory but I don't relish the idea of getting an oil shower and breathing the mist while trimming slabs if this is the case. And I was also wondering if there is more or less chance of rounded agate nodules slipping in the vice and damaging a blade in this type of drop saw than in a traditional power-fed saw design? Any experiences anyone could share would be appreciated!
Larry C.
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QuailRiver
fully equipped rock polisher
Member since May 2008
Posts: 1,640
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Post by QuailRiver on Jun 23, 2015 1:01:15 GMT -5
I bought one from them for an old kit built saw I overhauled for the rock club. I've ordered from Zoro Tools two or three times and have always gotten good service from them. And they frequently issue savings coupons too if you sign up for their emails. Larry C.
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QuailRiver
fully equipped rock polisher
Member since May 2008
Posts: 1,640
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Post by QuailRiver on Jun 23, 2015 0:18:21 GMT -5
This past weekend I ran across my old packing slip for the best deal I could find at the time for the last replacement 4rpm powerfeed motor I bought. This motor can be used with the Lortone 10", 12", 14" and Raytech 10" saws. I had to trim down the shaft length a little but that was easy to do. Since these replacement motors come up as a topic from time to time here I thought I would post a link to the last one I bought which I used to slow down the powerfeed speed on my Lortone 14" Panther. The factory powerfeed motor on my Lortone 14" saw fed at 17" per hour and was too fast for the harder agates I was cutting so I replaced it with the same speed as their 10" and 12" saws use. I purchased this motor from Zoro Tools. Zoro item number G0509467 and it is a Dayton motor, Dayton number 3M098. And if you buy it through Zoro's eBay store they offer free shipping. Here is the link to the motor on Zoro's web site in case you would like to bookmark it just in case you ever need a replacement. www.zoro.com/dayton-ac-gearmotor-4-rpm-open-115v-3m098/i/G0509467/Larry C.
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