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Post by Peruano on May 30, 2019 6:10:29 GMT -5
The rotary recommendation is fine but in some folk's scenario the rotary can be skipped if: 1. You are working on beach cobble that has already been tumbled by wave action. 2. You select rocks to be worked on the basis of surface texture and shape. 3. Or do a bit of preprocessing with a grinder. I started with a Raytech Vibe-5 but was using beach rocks from Mexico and really had no need for the rotary. I eventually acquired arbors, saws, etc. and still have several vibe tumbler but still no rotary.
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Post by Peruano on May 19, 2019 21:50:15 GMT -5
There is nothing wrong with the 303 and 301 blades but the 225 has a proven record of resisting being bent or tweeked perhaps because of a thicker core.
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Post by Peruano on May 19, 2019 21:47:43 GMT -5
Another thing you missed are the schist planks that are used to support the grape vines/wires in the wine areas. The idea of a schist plank some 4-5' long that has the other dimensions of a 2x4" board boggles the mind. Last forever, and apparently readily at hand.
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Post by Peruano on May 16, 2019 8:00:35 GMT -5
If you really have a 10" slab saw with a power feed, I'd not hesitate to recommend the MK225. I have a 12" that has been running for several years on a slab saw that is worked hard with lots of pet wood and agate. The blade never needs to be dressed and its still going strong. In various discussion here its been stated to be the equivalent of the Agate Cutter another stalwart blade. Because it has the slots like bigger blades it would probably not be a blade for hand fed cutting.
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Post by Peruano on May 15, 2019 7:54:26 GMT -5
I have successfully made tops for a slab saw twice using plastic storage tubs and one other time using sheet metal sides with a plexiglass top. The latter is much more solid and a close replacement to what a mfr would provide, but the plastic versions were certainly quick to fabricate, light, and inexpensive. In one case I equipped myself with my tank measurements and spent 45 minutes in Walmart checking sizes on storage containers eventually finding one that once the top was removed and 1/4 shaved off of one side was a "perfect fit". I cut a rectangular window in the side for a plexiglass viewing port and hinged it to the back of my saw. I have the desire to build a totally plexiglass or lexan version but need to do some research on bonding plastics before I do so. To illustrate the concept; it ain't pretty but it works. Here's a link to a thread with other top fabrication ideas. forum.rocktumblinghobby.com/thread/73589/thoughts
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Post by Peruano on May 1, 2019 8:18:41 GMT -5
Each one a true nugget. I'm occasionally tempted to take a small tumble and slice an instant cab off with the trim or slab saw. Instant freeform produced.
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Post by Peruano on Apr 30, 2019 15:58:00 GMT -5
Oh. . . and tell us where you and or your rocks are from. It helps guide our thinking. Welcome.
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Post by Peruano on Apr 30, 2019 15:56:29 GMT -5
I've heard that slag can have some nasty contaminants (mercury being one) so cabbing or working it should probably be done with some extra protection. The agate that you collected looks like a lot of things we call chert (laid down in horizontal beds instead of in pockets like most agates. Just guessing and acknowledging that the line between cherts, flints, and agates is often a grey one at least in the terminologies used by us lay persons.
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Post by Peruano on Apr 30, 2019 13:09:49 GMT -5
I'd probably try to take off the right bearing, not the saw end but whatever seems most accessible. A bit of steel wool polishing really helps along with the penetrating fluid to lubricate it. If you really need a bearing puller, borrow one with a long reach from your local auto parts store or take the shaft to a bearing shop and let them press the old bearings off to get to the wheels.
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Post by Peruano on Apr 29, 2019 17:57:43 GMT -5
Or feeding too fast or not enough coolant. Is the coolant hot?
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Post by Peruano on Apr 27, 2019 14:43:03 GMT -5
Big salaries are only part of the question. Think in terms of overhead. How much money is spent on raising more money or actually hitting the street as good deeds. If you spend 30% of the funds on slick newsletters or money campaigns that's waste compared to 10%. If you have too many staff no matter what they are paid you are diluting the good deeds unless they are efficient. My money goes to undergraduate scholarships at the local community college. Even if 1 or 3 of 10 drop out or don't continue right away, the other 7 are boosted as wage earners and productive citizens (and yes single or couples acting as present and future parents that will help others get educated.) If your charity has too much of a political agenda, its likely to loose its focus on charity.
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Post by Peruano on Apr 23, 2019 15:02:11 GMT -5
Having done just what Tommy did recently (i.e. moved residences including the rocks and machines) I declared it a day of rest. After a 3 month process, the old house closed yesterday (sale finalized with money transferred after oh so many inspections, minor negociations, and funding delays related to the buyers' buyer and their mortgage company. Today is a Happy Birthday. The new workshop is in the planning stage (plans to city for permit; slab not poured but contractor contracted). Thanks to all for the good wishes. Tom
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Post by Peruano on Apr 10, 2019 10:07:07 GMT -5
Harbor Freight has great little tile saw that would make a good starter saw if you don't already have something comparable or better.
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Post by Peruano on Apr 10, 2019 6:51:35 GMT -5
Break or saw one so you can see what the unpolished surface looks like. Does it have a grain (quartzite) or some larger crystals (other quartz)? Polished stones are difficult to id unless they are so characteristic that they scream at you.
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Post by Peruano on Apr 10, 2019 6:40:54 GMT -5
Well it sounds like you are off to a good start. Restoring equipment is part of the fun, but opening rocks with a saw is about as much fun as your best birthday party. Welcome.
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Post by Peruano on Apr 8, 2019 6:45:16 GMT -5
I have known one of those snake catchers since he was a baby (parents were friends and colleagues). Degree in biology, years in Peace Corps - good experience for preparing for this job which probably does not pay well. It's not a job many folks would want but an important one if Florida is going to understand what they can and can not do to control this and other problem species introduced to the state.
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Post by Peruano on Apr 8, 2019 6:14:37 GMT -5
I'll take another tangent. One Howardite is variable. Some slabs will have the rattlesnake pattern and others will be blah stripes. It also can have fractures. If you have a good slab it will be easier to evaluate in the hand than from a photo. Selling it for top dollar will take an experienced person seeing it no matter what the venue. With slabs of Howardite and Morrisonite, it would probably be easier to trade for that equipment through an experienced lapidary (they have equipment flow through their vision, if not their physical shops, and can pass on equipment in exchange for slabs they can process into those high dollar cabs. Trading slabs for equipment has no middle agent and direct communication. .
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Post by Peruano on Apr 1, 2019 20:06:09 GMT -5
At the risk of stating the obvious, measuring the distance from the shaft to the bottom and back of the saw tank will give you your answer. The slot in the saw table top can always be enlarged. Oh and it would be smart to check arbor shaft diameter. Rock on.
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Post by Peruano on Mar 26, 2019 16:57:28 GMT -5
Bigger is better. You will want an 8" wheel, not a 6" or 4 ". Nibs will be easy with just about any 8" and working the perimeter to take off hard edges will work as long as you don't have small concavities or notches. My attempts at using a flat lap for polishing slabs has been frustrating, but that's one option. A vibratory lap would be slow but another option. Then there always is a large vibratory tumbler to polish faces after you've done the flattening. Do I sound like I'm suggesting a complete array of lapidary tools?
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Post by Peruano on Mar 25, 2019 17:30:01 GMT -5
Yep, try a bit of acid on it. If it fizzes it isn't silica (agate or otherwise). Its looks like a carbonate to me (probably travertine). . . but its pretty and will work up easier than if it was an agate.
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