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Post by Peruano on May 30, 2024 9:08:30 GMT -5
When the threads on the central rod on my raytech vibe 5 shoewd significant wear (due to operator error) I used some improvised spacers to get to good threads and secure the top/bowl. I've also repaired the lid on a raytech. Necessity is the mother of invention.
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Post by Peruano on May 29, 2024 5:53:38 GMT -5
Thats not irony. Its spam.
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Post by Peruano on May 28, 2024 4:55:24 GMT -5
You dont need to seal as much as place them in an area protected from strong winds -- sort of counterproductive for a wind chime? My experience is they break in strong winds period. Thicker is heavier so chime less. You can search out the sweet spot but it may take 50 tries.
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Post by Peruano on May 15, 2024 16:04:45 GMT -5
Looks like a bunch of layers to me but not regular enough to be biological in origin. I like to see some semblance of patterns in biology butits a big world.
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Post by Peruano on May 11, 2024 14:37:22 GMT -5
It looks like what I called mushroom rhyolite. Mine were from beaches with volcanic influence in Guaymas Mexico. It can form wonderful patterns but probably varies in the amount of silica and hence in its ability to take a polish and or undercut. Its fun stuff.
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Post by Peruano on May 6, 2024 20:08:29 GMT -5
I almost always drain the slab on my trin saw table. Even a few minutes reduces the oil carried into the oil dri. If I'm in a hurry the slab can be swished against the oil dri which removes a grat deal of the surface oil. Or bury it and leave the slab overnight. Either way the next step is to a bath/soak in soap soluton(dawn for me). A soak is better and a dip in clean water is useful before drying or just jumping to the wheel. Obviously if you are going to a trim saw with oil as i do you may noy need to be oilfree except to be able to mark your cutting lines. And certainly oil removal is useful before trying to dop (I use super glue and nails). Are we having fun yet?
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Post by Peruano on May 6, 2024 14:14:10 GMT -5
I kno we often say kitty litter but in my view a focused oil cleanup compound ismaybe more effective. I buy Oil Dri at wally world in abig sac. You dont want the stuff that looks lie powdered fluff. I should look like kitty litter but without the lumps provided by the kitty. Then to Dawn liqud.
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Post by Peruano on May 6, 2024 6:52:27 GMT -5
What's not to like about those patterns. They will produce unique cab opportunities.
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Post by Peruano on May 6, 2024 6:50:13 GMT -5
Now that is a cool way to visually depict the speciman. Alas not available or appropriate for every stone though.
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Post by Peruano on Apr 26, 2024 14:11:08 GMT -5
I can see why you were excited about all of them. The ones with fractures will sink somewhat in your eyes as you work up the rest. The pet wood with the white highlights may not be super high on the resale scale but it can make some wonderful lapidary material and is always worth working on. I can tell you are having fun . Continue on!
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Post by Peruano on Apr 23, 2024 16:49:27 GMT -5
Thanks everyone. Somehow achieving the age of 79 seems momentous, perhaps because it's so close to 80 an age I would like to achieve as a healthy and happy member of the human race. I heped distribute abut 500 pairs of shoes to the entire student body of a local elementary school this week and moving about 1000 pairs of shoes convinced me that using it is important to delaying losing it. Carry on!
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Post by Peruano on Apr 2, 2024 14:49:40 GMT -5
I'm really unsure as to what this specimen is. It was reported to have been smelted and given to a friend who provided roadside assistance to the gifter. It was reportely poured in a heart shape and apparently has been sliced in half to expose a myriad of crystall inside. It is spectacularly colorful in direct sunlight and when moved relative to a light source. My read is that berylium is toxic to handle and breath and thus I'm unsure why anyone would make a decorative piece of it. It is dense, primarily gold in color similar to pyrite, and going to remain wrapped in plastic until I find out more about it. 20240327_100904 by Thomas Fritts, on Flickr
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Post by Peruano on Apr 2, 2024 14:20:14 GMT -5
I'm curious as to whether anyone has seen this model of machine before and has an idea of its age. The saw and polishing pad are both 6". It is a direct drive with a relatively robust case and saw table. It runs quietly and I'm looking at whether an extension on the side hood would allow a diamond wheel. 20240402_120609 by Thomas Fritts, on Flickr Covington trim saw by Thomas Fritts, on Flickr
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Post by Peruano on Mar 31, 2024 11:26:05 GMT -5
Welcome. Its good to ask about the sensitivities of names but to my knowledge no protest has been lodged against using Apache Tears as a name. We certainly can understand that sad things were done to Apaches and other native Americans. It can be handled in the minisonic, but as suspected it would be best with other softish rocks. Do you have any travertine, other obsidian, or beach glass? Are you near Albuquerque where apache tears material is plentiful to help make up an adquate load. Some cushioning is appropriate; you don't want to bang them to hard. If at first you dont succeed, try again.
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Post by Peruano on Mar 31, 2024 7:33:28 GMT -5
Hi guys, I'm about to build a basic lapidary drop saw with either the 16" or 18" mk 303. Mainly to cut rocks in half to create suiseki or viewing stones. The stones in NZ are pretty hard. Grossular garnet, argillite, nephrite...Mohs of around 6.5 to 7ish. I've been offered a quality industrial 1450 rpm motor at a good price. My question is will this motor work for my purpose or would I be better off waiting for a 1750 rpm? I can source different wheel sizes for the belt I'm assuming...thanks for your help guys F you go to the mk diamond website they have subtopic on speed recommendations for various sizes of blades.
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Post by Peruano on Mar 13, 2024 12:54:57 GMT -5
A lapidary arbor with two expando wheels would be just as cheap as a flat lap and much more utilitarian. Sic belts are cheap and even aluminum oxide and diamond belts are within reason as you want to go to finer finishes. Used (opportunistic scores) are much preferred price wise and to a certain extent offer greater variety. You can hand cut with a 6 - 10" saw but if you can find a small slab saw you will have so much more control and versatility. Good luck in assembling the equipment you need.
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Post by Peruano on Mar 4, 2024 8:55:44 GMT -5
Now change your oil that you cut those slabs in. Or keep cutting the same stuff.
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Post by Peruano on Feb 14, 2024 21:04:20 GMT -5
Cutting corners off of cubes would best be accomplished with a less than thin blade ( to avoid flexing the blade when addressing a less than square face). Buy a moderate or economy blade, not a super thin one. Most blades will cut fast but they will last longest if you goslow and easy instead of pushing hard.
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Post by Peruano on Feb 14, 2024 7:19:23 GMT -5
Yes, it looks like an HP. My advice would be to NOT cut by hand with that blade. Those slots could rip human tissue. They are usually only on big blades that use vices. Tile folks can get by probably because they don't cut as closely as most lapidarys. The underside of the saw table may have a model number indicating saw size. Enjoy, but I would buy anew blade.
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Post by Peruano on Jan 29, 2024 10:47:55 GMT -5
The verbage below was copied from the instructions for the Raytech 10" saw. The part about extra deep coolant is for someone abusing blades.
Filling the Saw To determine the correct amount of coolant to add, simply pour the coolant slowly onto the saw table while the saw is running. The correct fill level has been reached when a steady stream flies off the blade and hits the table in front of the blade. When making deeper cuts with the thin blades, a much deeper immersion up to about 1-1/2” will reduce the blade distortion from heat and greatly improve the quality of the cuts and the blade life. On start-up, the deep immersion will cause the blade to throw an excess of oil, but this effect will disappear when the blade is up to speed
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