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Post by oregon on Feb 28, 2022 23:58:44 GMT -5
Talk about a botched photoshoot, last second scrambles for a camera is entertainment lol. Not even attempting at counting tonight
I don't get it, couldn't see anything 30 mins prior...
Not sure if that was because it was cloudy, or they were just below the horizon? At any rate, it seems like your set of pictures are a nice example of atmospheric refraction... Air temp/density etc bend light; here's a nice EPOD example of the effect and explanation.
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Post by oregon on Feb 27, 2022 19:36:40 GMT -5
what does anyone know about useing an Ahome V30 UV 385-395 light for rocks that flouress Cant beat this for the money
The Convoy S2 is a bit nicer because it is a tad smaller, waterproof and a touch brighter, but $20 more expensive.
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Post by oregon on Feb 26, 2022 22:18:30 GMT -5
I just went through this... there is just too much info out there. Seems like the fluorescent minerals groups have a couple rundowns, and yes 365nm seems to fluoresce much more, also you want a filter that blocks the visible light. Seems like everyone says the Convoy S2+ and the S8 are best/moderate priced options, but some patent troll apparently keeps them from being imported at the reasonable price the rest of the world pays. I ended up with the Alonefire sv44 because the specs & price on Amazon seemed good I think their sv003/sv005 are the near equivalent of the convoy s2+ ? Heck, now I see amazon even added a 10% off coupon, $35 shipped.
I can't really speak from experience, have a plugin science lab UV light, but wanted one to wander around outside this summer. Thought my rocks had lots of fluorescent speckles, till I realized that was dust... 2c
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Post by oregon on Feb 24, 2022 14:37:00 GMT -5
C1 also then
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Post by oregon on Feb 23, 2022 17:43:02 GMT -5
Yeah, while some turds look like they're just deposited, I'd have to imagine the process is long term and organic stuff isn't the most sturdy. I'm kinda with Dave that the silicification process may be the agent of cauliflowerness here. That cauliflower topology seems to occur frequently in nature, not only in rocks/minerals, but a number of other natural phenomena. Clouds (water Vapor condensation), forest canopies, large Moss colonies etc just off the top of my head. I don't know heaps about the petrification process, but as the main component of chalcedony is crystalline Silicon Dioxide, (jasper, agates have heaps of small crystals) the crystal growth must play a role. For that process, after nucleation (the start of growth) local resources can become scarce for deposition and growth is affected. Similar argument for biological growth. I think you can model tree growth this way and mathematically come up with structures that look like really convincing branched trees. Sort of an Occam's Razor explanation in my mind, though saying "poop petrifies" is even simpler!
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Post by oregon on Feb 22, 2022 13:32:10 GMT -5
go away for a couple days and get two... no longer an 0-fer
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Post by oregon on Feb 19, 2022 14:40:51 GMT -5
Heel cut from a larger specimen, came from a sale that featured rock, didn't really notice any glass. Not sure what all the inclusions are, a couple are pinkish. Anyone ever run across anything similar? kind of leaning towards glass, but didn't show any 'molten flow' surfaces originally, just rough fractured, was a decent sized chunk, maybe some industrial leftover or something?
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Post by oregon on Feb 19, 2022 13:53:05 GMT -5
The vibration isolators make good sense oregon . The link should come in handy. Some vibes can be free standing, some grounded to a heavy base. Guessing it takes some fancier engineering to design a vibe that contains it's own vibrations without walking. The Lot-O sure makes good use of being anchored to a heavy counterweighted footing. yeah, interesting that the minisonics are comparable, but needs no counterweight, or maybe they'd work better if they were anchored down?...
I think the pivot arrangement of the two is pretty similar though; point "3b" on the minisonic seems like the pivot point for the minisonic, very similar to the dowel position of the Lot-O. I haven't used my vibrasonic too much. To be honest, unbolting the hoppers for every cleanout is a pia, and I worry about not tightening a bolt, or it working loose and destroying the mount tab. None the less, I feel like it's construction is bit different. That table simply rests on four springs (I don't regard the O-ring holding it down as doing much) so I think instead of a fulcrum point, that hopper is allowed to precess in a circular motion as the counter weights aren't really constrained like the Lot-O. Maybe that's what you're also referring to as the "oval"? Guess I should put my phone on the two and compare the amplitudes of the x-y motions, I'm guessing they'd be a bit different for the Lot-O vs the Vibrasonic.. Your dampening the motion arguments still are valid for lowering, adding more weight. Always wondered if a circular/oval grinding motion was one of the advantages that tumbler has. Have to start thinking about impact forces and the grinding/fracturing event I suppose, I can imagine one has more of a 'rubbing' effect while the 'shaking' of the other provides more of direct impact force. Could be that's also why the UV & gyroc vibes work well, they're allowed more of a rotary motion (horizontal)? If that's the case you'll just need two base kickers mounted at 90 deg with a phase shift between them to get that going All of that thinking out loud simply say, Seems like your 'non shaker' arm or mounting point could be very short or close to the edge? or more of a 90 than a 45? Go kick some butt
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Post by oregon on Feb 19, 2022 0:09:49 GMT -5
I think with your wanting a higher frequency, lower amplitude of motion, you should easily get very long life out of some rubber vibration isolator mounts.
I also think of my popcorn bowl just like the rock barrel, after salt, holding it on one edge shaking it so the far edge travels further creates that rotating motion. Seems like that's what you're after, and with such small amplitudes, large arms shouldn't be needed? or using the popcorn and my arm analogy: flicking the bowl with my hands works well, the close edge travels near zero, and the outer edge of the bowl maybe a couple inches. If I hold the bowl with my arms outstretched, and my shoulder as the pivot, the outer edges and the closer edges travel near the same magnitude, things don't mix. The difference in travel between the two edges helps create the rotation in the bowl. ( after all this thread has a lot of popcorn emojis!)
worth noting that the dowel for the lotto - I think of that as the fulcrum point, is really pretty close to the edge of the hopper.
1.5cents...
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Post by oregon on Feb 18, 2022 12:51:15 GMT -5
*Tommy...please don't take any whining about zero hits as though we don't like the game. I think we all love it...it just gives us an avenue to bellyache about something. I don't really have anything else in life to complain about...so I use this to keep up my "grumble skills"! LOL Bunch of whiny babies! Don't make me turn this car around and head home! seriously tho after yesterday's discussion I'm thinking about picking up the pace of the draws for this game. What do you guys think, two draws morning and maybe more at night until we wrap this one up? yeah, math is just math, it doesn't complain. I think you could "turn it around" so the last standing O-fer wins, I'm neck-n-neck in the lead!
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Post by oregon on Feb 17, 2022 18:16:49 GMT -5
yeah, I got to wondering about that last nite, thinking the stats would be much easier... But I do think you're neglecting the fact that you have 25 numbers per letter vs 15[/quote You could just say bingo cards have a pool of 75 numbers, rocko has a pool of 125, I'm guessing probabilities are more exponential here than linear for this. Or without delving too far, the N choose C stats involve factorials, So just looking at say the odds of a bingo in a column, 15choose5; vs 25choose5; is about 3000 combinations vs 50000 combinations. ie a factor of ~20. I think it might take a while. I'm admittedly not very good at math and I'm not sure what you were trying to say... and I don't know what you mean "25 numbers per letter vs 15." Correct me where I'm wrong but wouldn't using 25 rock names instead of 75 bingo numbers reduce the possibilities and thus shorten the game? ROCKO = 5 25 rock names = 25 25 x 5 = 125 possibilities per draw BINGO = 5 75 x 5 = 375 possibilities per draw Bingo would be 15x5 per draw. There are 75 total numbers, but that's just 5x15. Imagine it would have been too confusing to have B-13 next to I-13, so B is 0-15, I:16-30 etc, i.e. you'll never have a B-24. All for the American traditional bingo, European is a bit different I believe?
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Post by oregon on Feb 17, 2022 14:50:20 GMT -5
The law of averages has to apply eventually here, right? Definitely and it's still very early. Just out of curiosity I was poking around on the internet and read that it takes like an average of 40 ball drops to reach a 'bingo' for one person playing alone. The amount of drops decreases with each additional player and I think that with 21 people playing like we have it still takes about 20 drops before someone gets it. yeah, I got to wondering about that last nite, thinking the stats would be much easier... But I do think you're neglecting the fact that you have 25 numbers per letter vs 15.
You could just say bingo cards have a pool of 75 numbers, rocko has a pool of 125, I'm guessing probabilities are more exponential here than linear for this.
Or without delving too far, the N choose C stats involve factorials, So just looking at say the odds of a bingo in a column, 15choose5 vs 25choose5 is about 3000 combinations vs 50000 combinations. ie a factor of ~20. I think it might take a while.
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Post by oregon on Feb 13, 2022 13:48:27 GMT -5
I am trying to avoid coil springs all together Any particular reason for this? Vibrasonic,minisonic, loto (sorta) all use them...
These tumblers all have asymmetrical constraints which I imagine contributes to the rolling motion. Seems like mounting your shaker off to the side should provide the offset for the motion?
Do you need the "45" anchor point on the left? (Thinking out loud) what about just having the hopper suspended from a frame, with your shaker mounting tab off to the side? Not sure, there's probably a reason to have the bowl more constrained? certainly easy to try while you're constructing the 45 design. It'd be nice to compact that design some, maybe the 45 leg could go straight down after a short horizontal run, or even wrap back around under the hopper ala the "J" bar of the minisonic...
(Thumlers vibe (which I don't have) but folks seem to like it a lot - this vibrates in a horizontal direction rather than vertical , food for thought)
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Post by oregon on Feb 11, 2022 17:19:44 GMT -5
what, only one card?! might be a rush on new accounts. sure.
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Post by oregon on Feb 8, 2022 19:38:00 GMT -5
I'm guessing that was a felt washer to keep stuff from hitting the bearing. Seems like waterpump bearings were popular to use on smaller trim saws, lots of those are press fit. Did you remove the SNAP ring already? It could press in/out either direction like Larry said, (wo seeing the bigger picture.) Might be the shaft has to be pressed into the bearings and they will come out of the saw together. See if you can read the numbers/manufacturer on the seal (england 1591?) might get a hint if you can find that bearing.
Were they noisy? seems like a lot of work just for a clean up? 2c.
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Post by oregon on Feb 4, 2022 16:05:36 GMT -5
I have one of these sitting on the bench, IMHO, I'd start over instead of copying. sheet metal is near worn through that rides on the rails on this one, and I never liked how tightening the bearings relied on flexing the metal tabs that hold them. Split nut hole is egged out(again thin metal) which causes binding/alignment issues.. Rails have some flats worn on them too on this saw...
They were fine saws, probably built/designed with cost effectiveness in mind for the not so serious, casual home use. Fit those criteria well for the time.
2c.
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Post by oregon on Jan 25, 2022 12:00:04 GMT -5
disconnect the motor and take an old cord and wire the motor direct and see if you get power that way . I have had 2 of those switch's go bad on different saws Second this, if there's 120V to the motor and it's not turning, open up the gear box to have a look if hardened grease or a broken gear is keeping it from running.
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Post by oregon on Jan 17, 2022 14:52:40 GMT -5
check voltage to the motor (or wire it direct) and check the resistance of the winding, shouldn't be zero (shorted) or infinity ( open). Most often the gear box is full of old hardened grease, clean it and relube. There are other 3-5 rpm motor alternatives, just have to be creative to fit it inside the original switch box. If you're convinced the old one is dead and your going to toss it out, I'll send you a postage label and you can drop it in the post to me. Good luck. I don't have experience with fixing motors... I checked the resistance at the two wires leading into the motor. Is that where I should check the resistance of the winding? It was neither 0 nor infinity. I think it was around 4 mega ohms. 4 MegaOhms doesn't sound good, probably should be 10's of ohms, I have an LS-10 on the bench, here's it's motor, 30 ohms. always easier to make sure you're reading the right thing if an item is disconnected from the rest of the circuit, i.e. disconnect both wires (or in this case, at least one)
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Post by oregon on Jan 14, 2022 22:13:38 GMT -5
Hi, My LS12 auto feed motor died recently. I found an old thread about this that suggested checking to see if the switch was the problem. I've checked it with a voltmeter and it is fine. What would my next step be to fix this? I also searched for motors online and found only a Highland Park link that said out of stock. If I need a new motor, would that be my only option? Thanks in advance! check voltage to the motor (or wire it direct) and check the resistance of the winding, shouldn't be zero (shorted) or infinity ( open). Most often the gear box is full of old hardened grease, clean it and relube.
There are other 3-5 rpm motor alternatives, just have to be creative to fit it inside the original switch box. If you're convinced the old one is dead and your going to toss it out, I'll send you a postage label and you can drop it in the post to me.
Good luck.
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Post by oregon on Jan 14, 2022 16:10:40 GMT -5
Traditional glass fishing net floats are hard to come by, but some modern glass artisans make quite elegant alternatives. For the Millennium they hid 2000 up/down the Oregon coast, It's become a tradition, but limited to the Lincoln city area...
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