jamesp
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Post by jamesp on Nov 16, 2016 9:52:03 GMT -5
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Post by tims on Nov 16, 2016 19:00:02 GMT -5
Mine's #744. Wonder how many they made?
Didn't have mine apart so I didn't even see the numbers for the setting, that's helpful. Probably not as helpful as a brown dog but helpful.
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jamesp
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Post by jamesp on Nov 16, 2016 20:56:18 GMT -5
Mine's #744. Wonder how many they made? Didn't have mine apart so I didn't even see the numbers for the setting, that's helpful. Probably not as helpful as a brown dog but helpful. Apparently the sweet smelling penetrating oil has canine appeal.
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colliel82
has rocks in the head
Member since November 2007
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Post by colliel82 on Nov 17, 2016 19:10:03 GMT -5
You guys are a wealth of information. Serial # on mine is #649. Diamond Pacific now makes them. They will recoat/exchange your hopper once the lining has worn out, mine was pretty much gone when I bought it. Thanks for the settings for obsidian, that is going to be my next load. Do you recoat your hoppers yourself, and if so what do you use?
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Post by MrP on Nov 17, 2016 20:48:07 GMT -5
You guys are a wealth of information. Serial # on mine is #649. Diamond Pacific now makes them. They will recoat/exchange your hopper once the lining has worn out, mine was pretty much gone when I bought it. Thanks for the settings for obsidian, that is going to be my next load. Do you recoat your hoppers yourself, and if so what do you use? colliel82 When I built my homemade barrel for mine I used a product from Smooth-On, can't remember which one. It ended up pulling away from the side about a year later so I pulled it out. I just use a bare metal barrel now. My barrel is made from a small LP tank so cost is cheap and it is not wearing very fast. Works for me..........................MrP
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39don
starting to spend too much on rocks
https://www.etsy.com/shop/DonsLapidaryArts
Member since February 2012
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Post by 39don on Nov 19, 2016 0:19:20 GMT -5
Hi James, I sure hope my motor don't go bad, $301 is a good hunk of change. I believe .8 will be too much for OB, possibly somewhere .4 to .6, just guessing. I believe I will be dropping back down to .5 to get what I want on this tiger eye. Read more: forum.rocktumblinghobby.com/thread/76632/first-batch-started-viking-vt?page=3#ixzz4Q4rq6ioQNever did drop below .8 Don. Good to hear that and makes sense because it frosted glass media and obsidian at .8. And more so at 1.2. The motor is hard to find being such an old motor. Called several motor houses and no-go. Dayton made a copy of it but it is not continuous duty go figure. Maybe there is a supply out there some where other than Diamond Pacific's inventory of spares. It's hard to believe this is the only machine that uses a motor like this. By me slowing the action down it's taking longer for the sic 90 to breakdown which is going to be a longer tumbling time.I'll reduce the amount of sic 90o only 1 heaping tablespoon. I can't tell what my serial is because it doesn't show up on the thin decal.
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jamesp
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Post by jamesp on Nov 19, 2016 6:36:51 GMT -5
39don Dayton has a 1.0 service factor motor. Only good for intermittant. This one has 1.35 SF which must have something to do with being continuos duty. When mine was set on .8 everything slowed down. Sounds par for the course.
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Post by MrP on Nov 19, 2016 8:54:18 GMT -5
My serial number is 701. Bet that is the 701th sold. What is your serial number ? The motor mounting bolts were rusted bad. I used a grinder to remove them. New motor on the way. Had to heat the aluminum pulleys to get them off. jamesp Where did you order the motor from. Do you have a link to it. I don't need one but it doesn't hurt to now where to get one if needed...................MrP
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jamesp
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Post by jamesp on Nov 19, 2016 9:20:55 GMT -5
MrP Straight from Diamond Pacific. The distributer for Viking. Which concerned me a bit. That they have an old stock of a possibly no longer made motor. I did not do an exhaustive search on a replacement, but fairly thorough. And did not contact GE other than for technical info about the problems with the motor. Small motor rewinding shops a dying breed these days, cause for further concern. Good thing you asked. Amazon has Dayton 5K600BA for $185 + $7 shipping. I paid $301 from Diamond Pacific. But had no idea it was a Dayton replacement. I think I found the 5K600BA from another supplier and the guy said he did not think it was rated for continuous duty. Tag says cont. So, I was the guinea pig on that one. new motor
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Post by HankRocks on Nov 19, 2016 11:03:05 GMT -5
Word of warning about some of the "newer" motors. They are not built as well now as they used to be. I suppose that can be due to over-seas manufacture. The main fail on my Lortone FL-20 Vibrating Lap is the cheap bearings they use, they do not hold up on this piece of equipment as the counter-weight is mounted directly to the shaft. That results in too much stress on the bearings and they wear out too quick. I have not found a suitable motor yet for the Lap.
It does appear that the motor for the Viking may be coupled to the vibrating mechanism and maybe less pressure on the shaft bearings.
Good Luck.
H
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Post by MrP on Nov 19, 2016 11:56:42 GMT -5
MrP Straight from Diamond Pacific. The distributer for Viking. Which concerned me a bit. That they have an old stock of a possibly no longer made motor. I did not do an exhaustive search on a replacement, but fairly thorough. And did not contact GE other than for technical info about the problems with the motor. Small motor rewinding shops a dying breed these days, cause for further concern. Good thing you asked. Amazon has Dayton 5K600BA for $185 + $7 shipping. I paid $301 from Diamond Pacific. But had no idea it was a Dayton replacement. I think I found the 5K600BA from another supplier and the guy said he did not think it was rated for continuous duty. Tag says cont. So, I was the guinea pig on that one. new motor jamesp
Not wild about the idea of sleeve bearings.........................MrP
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jamesp
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Post by jamesp on Nov 19, 2016 17:06:47 GMT -5
Never noticed the sleeve bearings MrP. Not so good. A high service factor of 1.35 for the old motor is telling. 1.0 for new motor... Called two motor shops, they only do 10 HP and bigger. No more fractionals.
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jamesp
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Post by jamesp on Nov 19, 2016 17:09:28 GMT -5
Word of warning about some of the "newer" motors. They are not built as well now as they used to be. I suppose that can be due to over-seas manufacture. The main fail on my Lortone FL-20 Vibrating Lap is the cheap bearings they use, they do not hold up on this piece of equipment as the counter-weight is mounted directly to the shaft. That results in too much stress on the bearings and they wear out too quick. I have not found a suitable motor yet for the Lap. It does appear that the motor for the Viking may be coupled to the vibrating mechanism and maybe less pressure on the shaft bearings. Good Luck. H Not many motors are designed for off-balance direct coupled to their output shaft. Better have a well made motor for running that way. Most vibes are designed that way and seem to last. Good luck finding a replacement.
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Post by HankRocks on Nov 19, 2016 18:18:03 GMT -5
I have contemplated some sort of in-direct drive to a vibration device on the main plate. Without some proper machining equip or any welding skills any design is beyond my ability to build. So my issue with the FL-20 may linger for a while, or may never be solved.
H
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Post by tims on Nov 21, 2016 18:58:33 GMT -5
Ran about 5 hours today with sic 80, 1 cup water and 1 cup sugar plus a handful of pea gravel. Most everything is getting smooth and i'm wishing i'd pulled some things out along the way as many of my smalls are now indistinguishable from the pea gravel and the half-dozen cab-sized thin slabs i put in have completely disappeared. There are still a few pieces with divots and rough spots but if the weather holds i'm going to move everything on to 220 tomorrow, I hate to take anything out as i'm down to about half a hopper-full.
We finally got some normal weather and it was single digits for a couple nights so i'm going to play safe and just tumble days. Will probably try to get 24 hours with 220 then 24 with polish and see what happens ... if they're awful i can always roll them again next spring.
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jamesp
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Post by jamesp on Nov 22, 2016 4:40:07 GMT -5
Ran about 5 hours today with sic 80, 1 cup water and 1 cup sugar plus a handful of pea gravel. Most everything is getting smooth and i'm wishing i'd pulled some things out along the way as many of my smalls are now indistinguishable from the pea gravel and the half-dozen cab-sized thin slabs i put in have completely disappeared. There are still a few pieces with divots and rough spots but if the weather holds i'm going to move everything on to 220 tomorrow, I hate to take anything out as i'm down to about half a hopper-full. We finally got some normal weather and it was single digits for a couple nights so i'm going to play safe and just tumble days. Will probably try to get 24 hours with 220 then 24 with polish and see what happens ... if they're awful i can always roll them again next spring. If you have rocks wearing to nothing they are way too soft Tim. Certainly too soft to take a polish. And will make unwanted amount of mud. A quartz pea gravel should last year-2 years. Aquarium shops usually have nice white quartz pea gravel. Get a 10 pound bag or two and run it in 80 grit for 2 grit additions. Pick out the trash and reuse for years. I have replaced most of the quartz pea gravel with pea sized agates over time. Prettiest media you have ever seen. Could make 300 pairs of earrings out of them.
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jamesp
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Post by jamesp on Nov 22, 2016 5:23:00 GMT -5
Here is the problem with the Viking. This is fluorite. The smaller pieces stayed in the plastic beads to the right and received a nice polish. The bigger pieces migrated to the left where there is no protection and got frosted. A big success getting any polish on any fluorite, but the batch as a whole was mostly a failure. Had the fluorite been smaller 3/4 inch pieces they probably would have done fine. That darn Viking tub has separation issues under these conditions:
1 low counterbalance settings like .8(.8 in the video, setting for ages is 1.2 and all goes well) 2 bigger rocks 3 overly thick slurry
A shorter fatter hopper would probably mix better. Or better, a Lot-O type egg shape if it would roll the rocks.
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Post by tims on Nov 22, 2016 16:46:47 GMT -5
Here is the problem with the Viking. This is fluorite. The smaller pieces stayed in the plastic beads to the right and received a nice polish. The bigger pieces migrated to the left where there is no protection and got frosted. A big success getting any polish on any fluorite, but the batch as a whole was mostly a failure. Had the fluorite been smaller 3/4 inch pieces they probably would have done fine. That darn Viking tub has separation issues under these conditions: 1 low counterbalance settings like .8(.8 in the video, setting for ages is 1.2 and all goes well) 2 bigger rocks 3 overly thick slurry A shorter fatter hopper would probably mix better. Or better, a Lot-O type egg shape if it would roll the rocks. Just noticed this phenomena for the first time. Checked my batch and it had really thickened up and all the pea gravel had migrated to one side. I had to add a good cup of water to thin the slurry enough to mix everything back together. This gravel might not be as nice as the stuff you're getting as it really muds up ... maybe after a few runs it will weed out the soft stuff and i'll have some good hard gravel to reuse.
Did you ever try your divider idea?
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jamesp
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Post by jamesp on Nov 22, 2016 18:42:36 GMT -5
tims, just cranked up after a long sit today. Divider a high priority. Just gotta find some thick rubber stock. The pea gravel I reuse is a valuable commodity. It works well and gets reused a lot. I would invest in some good quartz gravel. I tried ~3/4 flat chips and too many of those will slow the motion. Close to oval and balls are best, think ball bearings to assist movement. Fast movement = less separation. Glad you have seen the separation phenom. The 35 pound barrel looks perfect, tall and not so wide. Gotta mix better. That long 14 pound hopper will do some long rocks. Have been looking for a similar container to retrofit that holds like 15 pounds. If I see a 35 pound used and cheap I will buy it. Sounds big but vibes use so little grit and wear media slow. It s no big deal to put 25 pounds of media and five 2 pound rocks in 35 pound hopper. 35 pound hopper
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Post by tims on Nov 23, 2016 9:27:38 GMT -5
That's a beast. I could see where you might want an extra set of springs under it.
The way this machine is built it seems like the ultimate platform for fabbing custom barrels, especially with the price for OEM replacements. ~$700 for a new one is pricy. Still, you probably couldn't dent one of the originals with an atomic bomb so there must be some used ones out there gathering dust somewhere ...
As for quartz gravel I know where to gather some good stuff when it warms up again, the spot I pick garnets is right near an old gold (I think) mine with a big discard pile of big quartz chunks and there's gravel-sized quartz all over up there.
Glad you're up and running again.
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