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Post by johnjsgems on Jun 14, 2010 0:46:29 GMT -5
I've cut parts off and broken them off with chisel. Remember any damage you do to shaft has to be file away. The part looks like it held a wheel. If so a lock collar (usually called "thrust collar" ) could be used with a flange washer or big flat washer. If you ever need a shaft take the old one to any machine shop and a new one can be made. It should be fairly cheap since it probably only as a left hand thread and right hand thread on ends.
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Post by Roller on Jun 14, 2010 8:39:27 GMT -5
Thats great to know ... I think the shaft is okay .. It might have some scratches on it though that I could file ..I wont know till i get the piece off ... Also worried about how to get off the bushing now since it has a little play and the piece with the stripped hex nut ... Any tips
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Post by johnjsgems on Jun 14, 2010 9:26:57 GMT -5
Do you mean the pillow block bearing?
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Post by Roller on Jun 14, 2010 9:30:25 GMT -5
Maybe Iam not familiar with the names of the equipment ... Basically the big ppiece that spins just right to the piece that is in the squarei drew ... it seems to have a little play ...to the right and left but its still good ..Iam afraid when I go to take it off to put on wheels I t could break ...
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Post by johnjsgems on Jun 14, 2010 9:50:14 GMT -5
That is a pillow block bearing. There should be no play if you mean the shaft moves from side to side in the bearing. Running it with a bad bearing will cause the shaft to wear there. If you are unable to remove the bearing you could take it to a machine shop or automotive machine shop and have them remove it. The allen head set screw has to be removed to remove the bearing. Soak with a penetrating oil over a couple of days. Use a good allen wrench and tap on it with a hammer. If you get the set screw out look for a dimple mark on same ring. Use a punch or screw driver and tap in opposite direction of rotation. The concentric ring should come off. If it does not have a concentric ring it may have two set screws. If the bearing is bad it would be best to replace while everything is apart.
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Post by Roller on Jun 14, 2010 9:55:57 GMT -5
Well the part of that which is connected to the shaft does not move around but the other part on the outside which has a little play ... I am going to try and get some new pictures up... if not now before work tonight ...
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Post by Roller on Jun 14, 2010 10:15:49 GMT -5
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Post by johnjsgems on Jun 14, 2010 11:35:56 GMT -5
An allen wrench should fit the outer hex. If you get it off, grind or file the end flat and you basically have a thrust collar. If you can file the other part flat it would be the washer. Liquid Wrench or other penetrating oil would be helpful.
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Post by Roller on Jun 14, 2010 21:46:53 GMT -5
I"ll try some liquid wrench on wendsday ...maybe try some new hexes ... Ialso worried about removing the pillow block bearing ? Seems like it has play a little and seems fragile ... Basically I was just putting a piece of wood between the hammer and the pieces and banging ...Any better ways
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Post by johnjsgems on Jun 15, 2010 9:53:06 GMT -5
The outer housing of bearing is cast iron so will break if hammered directly. The wood block is good but you need a bigger hammer. Use a strip of sand paper and polish all rust from shaft before trying to remove the bearing. If the bearing is worn don't worry about destroying it. Depending on clearance drive the bearing either way to expose shaft and clean. Oil it up and slide it off. Once the bearing is off check the shaft surface for wear. If you feel or see wear (no special tools needed) you will need a new shaft. The bearing has to fit tight.
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Post by Roller on Jun 15, 2010 9:58:26 GMT -5
Do you mean if I have scratches on the shaft from when I hammered it too far it could be ruined?It definately does have scratches from when i bang that piece too far ..
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Post by johnjsgems on Jun 15, 2010 10:02:36 GMT -5
You can file away any dings or scratches you make taking it apart.
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Post by jakesrocks on Jun 15, 2010 10:27:33 GMT -5
If you can hook that arbor up to a motor to spin it, you can polish the scratches off the shaft with carborundum sand paper. Just polish the whole shaft, and coat it with Car or furniture paste wax to prevent rusting. Don
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Post by Roller on Jun 15, 2010 22:15:51 GMT -5
I just noticed something new today ... Earlier I mentioned a repair and crack I found ... well now I know why the pillow block bearing on the left side has some play ...It is compensating for the two stands holding the shaft being uneven due to the repair epoxy underneath the repaired stand ... I found a pillow block bearing that might work with unit from covington ..theres no dimensions listed but it looks exactly the same ..I would have to contact them ... but since I noticed this I am actually thinking of just trying it this way because the bearing seems to have conformed to the difference ... The stand part is about an eight of an inch higher or more on one side and is at an angle with the higher part towards the front where the repair is ... My other option if it has too much play I would guess is to put a shim and use a level and make them both the same angle ... and then get a new pillow block bearing .... Did I mention I just wanna make some cabs already ?..lol Well tomorrow"s a big day ..I will attempt the removal of my mistake and the stripped hex screw ... Sprayed some liquid wrench on it tonight ... will spray again before I sleep ...
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Post by jakesrocks on Jun 15, 2010 22:31:35 GMT -5
You might try one of those plastic composite shims that carpenters use to shim doors and windows. They have a nice taper to them. Another thing you could try is contacting Diamond Pacific. They bought most of Highland Parks patterns and spare parts. Don
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Post by Roller on Jun 15, 2010 22:32:41 GMT -5
also found this www.covington-engineering.com/flanges_pulleys.htm the CEC Aluminum Cast looks like a smaller version of what i broke ... but I have already ordered about 5 lock collars for 1.60 a piece..... maybe I could use the lock collars for the wheels in between ...I dont know Iam just winging this and trying my hardest and hoping for the best ...
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Post by Roller on Jun 15, 2010 22:42:37 GMT -5
no kidding JR i didnt know that ... thanks ... I am gunna see about that ...with the diamond pacific ... the shims ... Iam not sure of maybe its just fine the way it is ... im no pro but like i said the bearing seems to be already conformed and angled that way ....maybe thats bad i dunno ...
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Post by jakesrocks on Jun 15, 2010 22:54:39 GMT -5
Pillow bearings are designed to self align within certain limits. Don
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Post by Roller on Jun 15, 2010 23:18:41 GMT -5
ahhh the limit ... i think i have hit my limit ...lol ....this better work or iam throwing it clear out the window onto the street ....lol
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Post by jakesrocks on Jun 15, 2010 23:22:10 GMT -5
You can use any extra lock collars for spacers between your wheels. Take the set screws out of them first. Don
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