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Progress finally!!!!! ... ..First I got one set screw out that was slightly stripped with a torx and hammer and then there was one which was badly stripped ... I went and bought a $20 kit with bits to remove it and when I was reversing the set screw the bit broke off in the stripped scew ... Perfectly flush at that .... My friend came over with a torch and dremel with a grinding bit and l after 45 mins we got it out... Then I removed everything using the liquid wrench and light hammer banging ... Used emory cloth to sand the shaft and get rid of the rust with wd-40 ... Its pretty smooth and has no damage...... Extremely happy at this moment ...My worries are gone .... My paycheck is too!!!!! .lol My next step is seeing if I can find replacement bearings with the same exact specs as the ones I have ..and how much ... if i decide to go that route ... and then putting a washer or shim to make the unit as even as possible ... You guys have all been a great help and I just hope this thread helps someone somewhere someday like I needed it who a few months before this had never even used a lapidary unit before ....Greg ..l
Post by jakesrocks on Jun 16, 2010 21:02:09 GMT -5
Hey Greg, check those bearings for numbers. If you can find numbers and possibly a manufacturers name on them, a good parts store can order them for you. Highland park didn't make the bearings. only the stands they're in. A machine shop could press the old bearings out, and the new ones in for a few dollars. The bearings are probably held in the stands with a snap ring on each side. Don
yeah looks that way .. I was suprised to find Japan written on a piece connected to the bearings that goes inside of the bearing .... and there is numbers there as well completely readable .. I wish I had one of you guys look at it to see if it reaLLY NEEDS REPLACEMENT ...In fact you know what thats what I will do ...I will get a video link up in a couple hours or less ....and show the amount of play involved ... numbers are japan and sst (by itself) and numbers 205e1-16 and the bearing cover actuallys says dayton on it ...
Okay heres the video ...it shows first the repaired crack that makes the hp unit stand that holds the shaft and bearings slightly higher on the left front side ... which causes a tilt and then the bearing with the most play on the left side which i assume conformed to the unevenness of the stands ... and the one on the right which has less play .... Tell me if you think these need to be replaced ...? Thanks Greg
Looks good to me. The bearing will swivel like that. Play to worry about would be if shaft moves inside bearing (hold bearing and move shaft up/down/side to side. Also, it should turn smooth and easy. I would shim the bearings until they are level. If bearings are made in Japan they were already replaced. I'm guessing originals were Browning.
Dayton started outsourcing some of their work back in the late 70's to early 80's. I've found Dayton bearings with the company name and Japan both stamped on them. They were still good bearings. There may be a Dayton Bearing web site where you can get info on your bearings. Don
sounds good so the result is they look good and no replacement ... yeah the play is not like u describe just a swivel ... I will work on shimming the unit correctly and level them out ... Iam thinking I can just put a washer under the stand up part ... Just waiting on the pulley now for the motor and then give this thing a test run ... Also the anti seeze that I bought from an auto part store says on the back not to be used on high speed applications and bearings and such ...Should this be a concern ... or just a warning to protect themselves ....
Post by jakesrocks on Jun 17, 2010 10:18:45 GMT -5
The swivel you describe is the self aligning feature of these bearings. As for the anti seize compound, that's only for use on nuts and bolts, to keep them from corroding and seizing up. You should be able to use it on the nuts at the ends of your shaft. Also use it on any set screws, but don't use it on the bearings themselves. If you have extra collars, you can take the set screws out of them, and use them for wheel spacers. Once you have your wheels spaced the way you want them, secure them with the nut at the end of the shaft. Don
using spacers throughout the entire shaft??? I have some pvc pipe ones but they are all cut already ...should i get pvc pipe and just cut it myself or buy a bunch of plastic and metal spacers online .. can i use the antiseeze on the pieces i put on the shaft like say those big lock collars that i have on there now that came w the unit
Post by jakesrocks on Jun 17, 2010 10:50:27 GMT -5
PVC pipe is too narrow. They make special spacers for wheels that are very thick walled. Something as thin walled as PVC pipe, would probably allow your wheels to wobble on the shaft. This could cause wheel failure and/ or damage to the shaft itself. Most spacers used now are machined out of aircraft aluminum, but if you have extra collars, they will work as well. You'll need a spacer to space the first wheel away from the bearing stand, spacers between wheels to give you space to work on the outer edge of the wheels, and possibly a spacer between the outer wheels and the nut. At the very least, use a large flat washer between your outer wheels and the nuts. If your arbor shaft is long enough, I'd leave an inch between wheels. Don
okay so whats a good webisght or somne really good spacers ..theyre cheap so i dont wanna cheap out here ... I seen some plastic ones around and metal ones ....any suggestions ...
Post by jakesrocks on Jun 17, 2010 13:24:01 GMT -5
You need to have the entire shaft covered with spacers, wheels and the end nut. If you leave space, you won't be able to tighten things down the way they should be. Some rock shops carry plastic wheel adapters in various lengths. Those will work, and are cheaper than the aluminum spacers. But the aluminum spacers are better, and will last a lifetime. Don
so i need to replace one of those stops i think u call them and i can use the locking thrust collar and a flange .... and then spacers for the empty space .... so the pattern should be basically nut then ,stop or thrust collar replacement since i broke one ,flange ,wheel , spacer ,flange wheel ,flange actually im lost ..lol .please list a common pattern for me ....
Post by jakesrocks on Jun 17, 2010 16:13:42 GMT -5
Starting from the outside, it would be nut, large washer, wheel, spacer, wheel, spacer, and if need be, a locking collar where the shaft comes out of the bearing. Don
Post by johnjsgems on Jun 17, 2010 18:48:25 GMT -5
Your unit originally had silicon carbide wheels. They needed flange or large flat washers on each side. Those are not needed with diamond wheels. It would be good to use washers with expando drums. When you get your drums/wheels together the spacer need will be obvious. You need space between each wheel. The more space the better within the limits of the unit. I do use schedule 40 1" PVC pipe on my Genie. It fits tight and as long as I cut it square it does not cause a wobble.
thanks guys ...will refer back to this ... should be working on mounting the motor on /or by tuesday ... anyone have pictures of a motor mounted on hinged plates ?
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Welcome to the Rock Tumbling Hobby Forum where we share a love of rocks and a sense of community as enduring as the stones we polish.
The RTH Forum of www.RockTumbling.com is an Amazon Associate site and we earn money from
qualifying purchases you make after clicking on our links such as this
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