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Post by jakesrocks on Jul 1, 2010 21:14:50 GMT -5
I just cleaned and checked the rocks from another area just outside of Custer State Park. I have 2 more Fairburns. One is super nice, and as a collector piece would be worth several hundred dollars. That one will be kept under lock and key.
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Post by Roller on Jul 15, 2010 9:07:35 GMT -5
Quick update ! Just about done .minus the wheels . adding a few little extras ..will get pics up soon .. I bought the raytech i think spritser ...Seems to work fine but I am concerned if it supplys enough water for the big 8" wheels .. I might also add the top water supply ...very little spray at all .... no splash guard needed at all ... i dont get wet at all ..very minimal drip making around the wheel ... maybe get a video up soon .. one other quick question ... bought some of those pipe insulators to use for cushioning ... Any tips on what you guys used for adhesive without damaging my nice paint job if they happen to come off ...
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Post by jakesrocks on Jul 15, 2010 9:48:44 GMT -5
The pipe insulators should fit tight enough without adhesive. They will also come off easy for cleaning the machine. The insulators themselves can just be washed in soap and water. Try your wheels with just the spritser first. If you see a white buildup on the wheels while using them, you need more water. Don't complicate things with more plumbing if you don't need to. Don
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Post by Roller on Jul 15, 2010 9:54:36 GMT -5
well i tried it and there was a tiny bit of buildup i noticed that would clear if i stopped and let the wheel run a little or move the spritser a little bit over ....
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Post by jakesrocks on Jul 15, 2010 13:44:38 GMT -5
If you have a Kingsley North catalog, check bottom left of page 64. They have the 6" with 3/4" threads. You might be able to get a machinist to re-bore and thread it to 1" Don
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Post by Roller on Jul 15, 2010 13:45:46 GMT -5
Also looking for 6" polishing head 3/4 " smooth thread ... the 8 " i have is dangerously close to the splash pan ..
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Post by jakesrocks on Jul 15, 2010 14:18:55 GMT -5
How bout having a machinist center bore and thread the right end of your shaft to 1/4 - 20 thread? You could use the spin on 6" disks. That way you could have separate polish pads for different types of polish. Later, as finances allow, you could add the steel faced disk and magnetic diamond disks. The spin on disks are easier to change too. Don
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Post by Roller on Jul 15, 2010 19:20:02 GMT -5
I think thats what I was looking for ...but basically here where i live stuff like that goes far and few in between .... so let me try and explain ... as i dont have much knowledge in this field yet as am I am a beginner and started this less than 2 years ago ... I want to be able to do stuff like crosses and maybe go through with the grits on a geode half or a few slabs .... ... not alot but just a few here and there ... dont wannna spend alot or otherwise ill probably just buy a flat lap ..
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Post by jakesrocks on Jul 15, 2010 20:17:36 GMT -5
Those diamond disks, magnetic or otherwise are expensive. You might be better off with a flat lap. Don
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Post by Roller on Jul 15, 2010 21:37:18 GMT -5
just trying to get the current splash guard for the polishing wheel to work at the moment ...its not exact for the unit ... its extremely tight for a 8 " polishing wheel .....I had it working and then my wooden base i made stripped .... was thinking of just putting the one i have back on loosley and using 6 " polishing disc ... and the current 8 " flat grit disc which is smaller and dont rub (the cheap out way ) ...not so thick as the polishing wheel because it has extra width to them due to the leather and metal wire that wraps around them ..ill figure something out .... im lost at the moment .... will have to get back to this ...everything was good and then ..... reality hit again ... not as easy u think ...
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Post by Roller on Jul 18, 2010 18:16:24 GMT -5
Did some polishing today on some old cabs I made ... Geez I didnt realize that my hand muscles would actually hurt ...lol Just testing out the polishing wheel ...Seems good ... Was looking at some lights today at Lowes since that corner of the room has no light at all ... Seems they had a pretty long gooseneck just about the right height for my unit .. A little pricey 55$ because it is High Definition lighting I think it was called OTTO ... Yeah I know I laughed too but it had all the right dimensions ... Thing is I couldnt really tell how bright it was with a million lights on around it ..Didnt seem as bright as I wanted it to be ...
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Post by Roller on Jul 18, 2010 19:40:52 GMT -5
I couldnt help myself ... pics of the unit updated ... Its nearly done except for the wheels and belts and and the expensive parts ... lol ... notice the lonely 100 grit wheel from johnsjems .... he really hooked it up with the splash guard for free as well on the right side of the pic as well as a ton of information helping me out through the whole process ... Thanks John I owe you one ... Oh yeah this baby runs smooth .... I even asked the neighbors and they say they barely can hear it ... the piece wood colored on the right is not a paper towel holder but the wood is very cheap which is why I didnt paint it yet ... its to help move the unit on the wheels but when i add a better one i just might put a roll in there .... (most exciting the sliding slab drawer i made for my slabs in progress)also you you can see the two valved drains leading to the shelf supported water tray removal system .... Can see the two eyescrews i think you call them for tension bars for the different pulley speeds .... pulley can reach all three of the lapper"s pulleys speeds by using a hex on the motor"s pulley and moving the pulley over to the right on the motor shaft ..... a little annoying but I havent added my variable speed motor yet ...Actually if someones knows how to do this cheaply please do tell ... wire wrap bar made from lrg leftover washer , leftover woodscrew and leftover towel rack repair in bathroom ) side note : I plan on adding a spacer to the right end of the shaft for a diamond plate system possibly that extends past the splash guard for doing crosses and using the edge of the wheel ...for that I will need a top water supply in which infact I think I might need as of now anyway... I will get a video up of the water supply hitting the wheels from the bottom ...something tells me its not enough ...maybe iam wrong that where you guys will come in and help me decide ....
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Post by johnjsgems on Jul 21, 2010 0:25:10 GMT -5
Looking good. If you remove the wire and cover from the polish head you can use 3M Feathering Disc adhesive to hold leather or felt discs for polishing. I'm not sure how you will do hearts and crosses but geodes could be possible with sanding discs I guess. Barranca makes a nice 7" Flat Polishing Kit that will fit a 1" threaded shaft but it isn't cheap either.
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Post by Roller on Jul 21, 2010 3:18:23 GMT -5
Thanks ... John that part of the shaft is actually a 3/4 .... whats the most common way for making crosses? the uv-10?
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Post by johnjsgems on Jul 21, 2010 10:04:34 GMT -5
Wet band saw and vibe tumbler would be easiest. Same for hearts. Both aretough to do on conventional wheels or flat discs.
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Post by jakesrocks on Jul 21, 2010 10:33:10 GMT -5
Crosses can be cut on the smaller trim saws if the arbor is centered at table height. Clean up work can be done with diamond files. And finish up work done in a vibe tumbler. Make sure you use solid material with no cracks, or the crosses will break in the tumbler. Best material for crosses, with the least amount of breakage is nephrite jade. Don
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Post by Roller on Jul 30, 2010 22:02:28 GMT -5
picked up a used 8 by 3 scott murary drum tonight on ebay .38.95 including the shipping... Anybody know what belts fit the best ... I have heard there can be issues with belt fitting to drums ...
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Post by Roller on Aug 3, 2010 23:29:50 GMT -5
i guess they all fit ??I heard 3m are the best ... ???anybody ?whats second best ?haha I just went back and read this whole thread ... I must say this came out very well considering what I was thinking at it would be at first ... I think Iam going to name it ...lol
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Post by Roller on Aug 6, 2010 20:14:19 GMT -5
Okay Iam not getting any more answers ...Did I make you all sick with questions? I apolagize ...Iam somewhat of a perfectionist at times and like to know the right way the first time and lots of research before i do things .... So I will try another one ... anyone not sick of my questions feel free to give your thoughts ... Iam trying to make a setup with wheels and drums that can be extensively updated in the future .... so what I was thinking was right side - 100 grit galaxy 220 grit galaxy - 280 nova and the left side 400 nova and then belts 1,200 and 3,000 just to get me started ... in the future I would add more belts like a 600 ,10,000 and 50,000 and maybe some crystalite v-wheels .... Any thoughts on this would really be appreciated ... if you agree i would like to hear it..if u dont i would as well ... aslo has anyone ever had any offbalance due to different sized wheels on the shaft ...example would be my 7 and 5/8 galaxy wheels and the larger 8 inch drum and 6 inch crystalite wheels Thanks Greg
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Post by jakesrocks on Aug 6, 2010 21:13:17 GMT -5
Most cabbing units have the wheels arranged with the coarse wheel on the left outside and progress to the right, with the finest wheel on the right outside. That way you progress down the line of wheels in a straight line from left to right. --- Different sized wheels shouldn't cause any balance problems, as long as you're using good wheels. They should come from the manufacturer already balanced. Just leave plenty of space between your smaller and larger wheels, so when working on a small wheel, you don't catch the side of the larger wheel by accident. Don
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