ᎡᎵᏔᎻ
having dreams about rocks
Member since November 2019
Posts: 57 
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Post by ᎡᎵᏔᎻ on Dec 2, 2019 22:52:17 GMT -5
ᎣᏏᏲ ᏂᎦᏓ (hello everyone) I Think I have enough info and ideas to start building my own Lapidary machine. So far I have part of the water system and the 1”x36” Threaded 6”up either end with lock nuts a pulley and some washers. I have some regular nuts as well In case I have to nutlock them because they are both right hand threaded.  I’m still waiting for the f-style Coleman 5 gallon jugs, pillow bearings and wheels. Any recommendation of what type of motor I should put on this? I don’t want to buy new spa few options would be nice. Also thanks to everyone that’s been giving me advice. Please feel free to chime in if you have any questions or comments. ᏩᏙ (Thank you) |
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nik
spending too much on rocks
Member since May 2019
Posts: 315
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Post by nik on Dec 2, 2019 23:21:19 GMT -5
Looks like you are off to a fine start on your build. Pretty much any continuous duty motor with a rated power of 1/4 to 1/2 hp at 1800 rpm or less will work. If you live in or near a decent size city, they can easily be found used.
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Post by Drummond Island Rocks on Dec 3, 2019 7:14:44 GMT -5
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ᎡᎵᏔᎻ
having dreams about rocks
Member since November 2019
Posts: 57
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Post by ᎡᎵᏔᎻ on Dec 3, 2019 9:25:16 GMT -5
Thanks I seen the first 2 but that last link has gave me a few more ideas. |
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ᎡᎵᏔᎻ
having dreams about rocks
Member since November 2019
Posts: 57
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Post by ᎡᎵᏔᎻ on Dec 4, 2019 21:12:50 GMT -5
*Update* I got lucky and found these two brand new motors from a Facebook seller near me for $50.    I will have to wire them but I plan to do that anyways. What I would like to do is wire it to a switch with a plug. That way when I flip the switch it will make the plug active. I think that will be a better option for the water pump in case it burns out I won’t have to do any rewiring. Does anyone have a good tutorial for that? |
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ᎡᎵᏔᎻ
having dreams about rocks
Member since November 2019
Posts: 57
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Post by ᎡᎵᏔᎻ on Dec 5, 2019 12:58:08 GMT -5
This is a rough mockup I did on Blender on what I plan to build.   |
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nik
spending too much on rocks
Member since May 2019
Posts: 315
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Post by nik on Dec 5, 2019 17:55:59 GMT -5
That looks like a solid design. What wheel sequence are you planning to run?
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ᎡᎵᏔᎻ
having dreams about rocks
Member since November 2019
Posts: 57
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Post by ᎡᎵᏔᎻ on Dec 5, 2019 20:31:21 GMT -5
That looks like a solid design. What wheel sequence are you planning to run? Well I’m still think one that so far I have bought 3 of these wheels in 80, 150, 320 grit.  I know they are cheap wheels but I only work Shell and I can buy better later. As for the other side I’m not sure never messed with any other wheels but the diamond coated like that. I have thought about putting 2 on one side and one on the other then add washers for weight to balance it out until I buy more. Any advice? |
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nik
spending too much on rocks
Member since May 2019
Posts: 315
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Post by nik on Dec 5, 2019 23:07:32 GMT -5
Those wheels are not a bad place to start, and should last quite a while cutting shells. As far as their weight, I wouldn't be too worried about it. The plastic cored wheels are pretty light, particularly considering your 1 inch shaft.
As far as additional wheels, I would go with some sort of resin bond wheel, probably 280, 600, and 1200 grit, and possibly a 3000 if you can make room. It would probably be worth getting the right hand end of the shaft drilled and tapped 1/4 20tpi for some of the spin on discs to finish sanding and polishing.
One other item to consider would be a couple of clamp collars to isolate the bearings from the axial load from tightening your wheels. I would go with the pinch style rather than set screw if you can find them. If for no reason other than less chance of damage to the shaft.
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ᎡᎵᏔᎻ
having dreams about rocks
Member since November 2019
Posts: 57
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Post by ᎡᎵᏔᎻ on Dec 6, 2019 1:04:55 GMT -5
Those wheels are not a bad place to start, and should last quite a while cutting shells. As far as their weight, I wouldn't be too worried about it. The plastic cored wheels are pretty light, particularly considering your 1 inch shaft. As far as additional wheels, I would go with some sort of resin bond wheel, probably 280, 600, and 1200 grit, and possibly a 3000 if you can make room. It would probably be worth getting the right hand end of the shaft drilled and tapped 1/4 20tpi for some of the spin on discs to finish sanding and polishing. One other item to consider would be a couple of clamp collars to isolate the bearings from the axial load from tightening your wheels. I would go with the pinch style rather than set screw if you can find them. If for no reason other than less chance of damage to the shaft. I did not think about clamp collars that a good idea. As for the other side I really never need to go past 400 grit. The polish compound I use can finish it from there. And I do have a polisher (aka free bench grinder). However when my grinder goes out it will give me an excuse to make a saw/polisher combo. Lol |
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EricD
Cave Dweller 
High in the Mountains
Member since November 2019
Posts: 1,142
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Post by EricD on Dec 6, 2019 1:16:04 GMT -5
Too cool
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nik
spending too much on rocks
Member since May 2019
Posts: 315
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Post by nik on Dec 6, 2019 2:07:51 GMT -5
Sort of off topic, but what polishing compound and technique are you using for the shells? I have an idea for another tap handle at the local brewery.
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ᎡᎵᏔᎻ
having dreams about rocks
Member since November 2019
Posts: 57
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Post by ᎡᎵᏔᎻ on Dec 6, 2019 10:32:23 GMT -5
Sort of off topic, but what polishing compound and technique are you using for the shells? I have an idea for another tap handle at the local brewery. I think it all depends of the Shell you use. For myself I Work with Mankiller Pearl Shell mostly I get the shape I want on a lapidary machine the hand sand it to 400 grit then take to a polishing wheel with Grobet Fabulustre Polishing Compound. You can click the link below to see my results. forum.rocktumblinghobby.com/thread/89681/?page=1 |
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nik
spending too much on rocks
Member since May 2019
Posts: 315
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Post by nik on Dec 6, 2019 15:47:57 GMT -5
[/quote] I think it all depends of the Shell you use. For myself I Work with Mankiller Pearl Shell mostly I get the shape I want on a lapidary machine the hand sand it to 400 grit then take to a polishing wheel with Grobet Fabulustre Polishing Compound. You can click the link below to see my results. forum.rocktumblinghobby.com/thread/89681/?page=1[/quote]Nice work with the shell. It seems like you are building a pretty serious machine for just doing rough shaping. Don't get me wrong, I over build most things too. |
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ᎡᎵᏔᎻ
having dreams about rocks
Member since November 2019
Posts: 57
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Post by ᎡᎵᏔᎻ on Dec 6, 2019 19:34:14 GMT -5
I think it all depends of the Shell you use. For myself I Work with Mankiller Pearl Shell mostly I get the shape I want on a lapidary machine the hand sand it to 400 grit then take to a polishing wheel with Grobet Fabulustre Polishing Compound. You can click the link below to see my results. forum.rocktumblinghobby.com/thread/89681/?page=1[/quote]Nice work with the shell. It seems like you are building a pretty serious machine for just doing rough shaping. Don't get me wrong, I over build most things too. [/quote] lol yeah but I also teach and need a machine that my students can’t brake easy and will last a long time. Plus with how much Mankiller pearl is worth I can afford. If I just sell it XD I have a bad habit of giving it away. Who knows maybe I’ll get into rocks as well. |
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nik
spending too much on rocks
Member since May 2019
Posts: 315
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Post by nik on Dec 6, 2019 22:36:20 GMT -5
I completely understand the giving stuff away thing. At least you will have the machine ready should you start cutting harder material. My only concern about your planned grinder, at least in a teaching setting, is the length of unsupported shaft outboard of the bearings. If you really wanted to make it bomb proof, add another bearing at each end. It would have the added bonus of shortening the dead space between the inner bearings. But, again, I tend to over build...
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ᎡᎵᏔᎻ
having dreams about rocks
Member since November 2019
Posts: 57
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Post by ᎡᎵᏔᎻ on Dec 7, 2019 2:06:54 GMT -5
I completely understand the giving stuff away thing. At least you will have the machine ready should you start cutting harder material. My only concern about your planned grinder, at least in a teaching setting, is the length of unsupported shaft outboard of the bearings. If you really wanted to make it bomb proof, add another bearing at each end. It would have the added bonus of shortening the dead space between the inner bearings. But, again, I tend to over build... Lol I know exactly what you mean if you notice from the picture below I bought 4 bearing. I think 2 will be just fine however, if I don’t like it then I have 2 more to add to the ends.  |
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Post by parfive on Dec 7, 2019 2:38:52 GMT -5
Elastic stop nuts, eh? You won’t put them on by hand. : )
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nik
spending too much on rocks
Member since May 2019
Posts: 315
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Post by nik on Dec 7, 2019 4:18:03 GMT -5
flic.kr/p/2gz2Yw4I built this a few months back, but am already making changes to it. the two small wheels in the middle are being replaced with a 600 and 1200 soft wheel. I got tired of changing belts.
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ᎡᎵᏔᎻ
having dreams about rocks
Member since November 2019
Posts: 57
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Post by ᎡᎵᏔᎻ on Dec 7, 2019 13:19:26 GMT -5
Elastic stop nuts, eh? You won’t put them on by hand. : ) Yep since both sides are right hand treads I figured that would help hold it on. I have 2 Regular nuts as well in case I need to nut lock them but I think it will be fine. |
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