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Post by oregon on Dec 11, 2020 18:48:55 GMT -5
What do you think of this as a solution to your question? McMaster-Carr 1932
I guess flex shafts have been around for a while...
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Post by oregon on Dec 10, 2020 16:03:03 GMT -5
These flex shafts were in with a bunch of lapidary equipment, most of which was "vintage". The steel one looks unused, in an ancient plastic sack, factory pipecleaners intact (era before zip ties) They seem to both have 1/4" shafts, and the normal dremel type collets on the other end. But there also doesn't seem to be any real way of anchoring the outer casing? Did old Foredom units use this type of connection, or is a connector of some sort missing for those machines? Strange mounting assembly for the used shaft...
Trying to figure out what they are before I figure out what to do with them. Thanks.
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Post by oregon on Nov 25, 2020 12:55:02 GMT -5
8 then 12
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Post by oregon on Nov 24, 2020 17:59:57 GMT -5
Gave it another coat of WD40 Industrial Degreaser, and I'll take it for a quick power wash. Once that's done, I just have to continue my wait for new oil and then I can get some serious cutting in! I've never been so excited to clean....maybe I better cut back on the WD40....
If it were me I'd skip the "water power" wash. Pressure washers can do damage to bearings, paint etc. and water & oil don't mix. Organic chemistry days remember "like likes like" so just put oil in and use it, it'll be much easier to clean out with recent oil in it having dissolved/loosened the old stuff after using it for a while. And yeah, I agree, that looked pretty clean to begin with!
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Post by oregon on Nov 24, 2020 17:51:02 GMT -5
Should we transfer guesses made it the other thread? If not, I will go with 3, then 8. New guesses are fine! 9 then 3...
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Post by oregon on Nov 23, 2020 18:00:34 GMT -5
Now, along the lines of jasoninsd 's post and the amount of generosity people have shown me here on RTH, I've decided to do sort of a "contest." I'll send a SFRB to the first person who can correctly guess which two sold. They'll be numbered 1-12 from left to right and top to bottom (look at the original picture in this thread). The stuff I send may not be spectacular, but you never know what I might send. The winner can choose between slabs for cabbing, local agates/jasper from this area to tumble, or pet wood from here. I'll check from time to time to see if anyone gets it right, and it will end on Monday. Oh, here's the kicker...you have to also say which one sold first!
and I'll guess 8 then 10....
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Post by oregon on Nov 18, 2020 16:39:05 GMT -5
178 233 287
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Post by oregon on Nov 13, 2020 13:54:06 GMT -5
Those help! Is it little more work to adjust the overall width ( sliding the flexible half of the vise back) to loosen & tighten the two nuts or does the main clamp squash that sliding portion tight as well?
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Post by oregon on Nov 10, 2020 11:39:00 GMT -5
Very nice looking saw and interesting design. So how does the rear 'hinge' lock down? - maybe there's just something not showing in the pics? The front knob/shaft looks like it's just to lock down the crossfeed? Also interesting to run the blade in the opposite direction, I can see where the vice arrangement would allow that, but is there any other real advantage? more oil still on the blade? less force on the bearings/feed mechanism? the front locks everything on the vise the reason the blade runs backwards is because thats what supports the vise i think
If you're ever b y the saw with your phone again,can you add a pic of the rear of the vice? Not quite getting how it clamps yet, but looks like a cool design worth understanding.
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Post by oregon on Nov 9, 2020 15:55:00 GMT -5
wow, found these on EBAY. They are likely preowned looking at the price. I believe they are fusion weldable.--not sure-- I have found this company(AGRU) selling other super heavy duty fittings on EBAY that were weldable. This 6 to 4 reducer is SDR 11, meaning it is real heavy thick plastic. A end cap would be the other half of a barrel. These same fittings cost me $50 each in black HDPE. Just ordered 2 of them. I'll let you know how they work. Thanks Jim!!! Again. 😀
My reading of that is that there are two "lots" of 5 each - if you get 10 and want to sell one or two drop me a msg...
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Post by oregon on Nov 9, 2020 12:38:33 GMT -5
Very nice looking saw and interesting design. So how does the rear 'hinge' lock down? - maybe there's just something not showing in the pics? The front knob/shaft looks like it's just to lock down the crossfeed?
Also interesting to run the blade in the opposite direction, I can see where the vice arrangement would allow that, but is there any other real advantage? more oil still on the blade? less force on the bearings/feed mechanism?
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Post by oregon on Nov 8, 2020 1:07:28 GMT -5
interesting, yeah there's a lot of friction on the belt. Any idea why they tend to use DC motors on these? just for the ease of speed control maybe? Seems like they're usually 180V DC or something. Older models ofen had nice speed controllers you could salvage but now most are integrated into the main board, not near as easy to tinker with.
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Post by oregon on Nov 3, 2020 0:33:45 GMT -5
The photo below is what the original configuration of wheels, spacers, and stop collars looked like on the arbor of a Beacon Star 6" "Holiday Combo" model I used to have. The expando drum was original to that model but is not shown in my photo. Hope this helps. Larry C. yeah, that's great. I think I ended up with just about the same thing, cut a couple custom spacers, and must have assembled/dis a couple dozen times to get every thing lined up. It looks like they tossed out the locking hub on the bearing on the right (or probably used it as the stop collar on the left of the wheels)? so that bearing is just floating on the shaft? Everything is thenl tightened down by the nut on the right. Seems like most shafts get damaged by a suspect bearing getting stiff and wearing, so I put a lock hub on there, locked it down after temporarily tightening things.
The saw blade has to fit the table, and the collar is dictated by a divot in the shaft, so combined length of the wheels, spacers/hubs is already determined then... of course they need to line up with the water outlets...
Two diamond wheels, and expando and a polishing plate on the end, seems like a pretty ideal unit. Thanks for the effort, hopefully the next person with find this.
did they originally have some kind of 'material' on the brass splash guards, or was it just the brass?
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Post by oregon on Oct 31, 2020 22:21:55 GMT -5
I was looking over the latest haul and found one bristling with gastroliths.
waiting to see the inside
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Post by oregon on Oct 30, 2020 14:30:02 GMT -5
Thanks for the pics... I imagine with other wheels etc, just need different spacers.
Just a bit of a tricky setup as the saw blade (slot in the table) dictates where the shaft should be aligned to, then the nut on the other end compresses the wheels together, so the bearing has to get locked down after that. A set screw bearing instead of a locking collar might have been a better choice here as much as I hate those.
The shaft has indents for the pulley set screw and a locking collar to the left of the wheels, which I'm guessing are factory? Just have to make some custom spacers and figure out how to lock the second bearing after mounting things.
Are the felt water spreaders just glued to the brass shims under the set screws?
Kinda like the beacon star equipment, came with the 10" saw that's been fun to test out!
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Post by oregon on Oct 29, 2020 22:01:53 GMT -5
Trying to get all the spacings right from the trim saw blade to bearing directions, flange mounting points etc so the wheels also line up with the drippers... I think the spacers are mostly original, but certainly didn't come with diamonds & an expando back in the day...
Anyway, if you have one, and can shoot me a picture looking in the front, that would be grand. Probably just turn down some more custom spacers if I can find my thick pvc... Thanks
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Post by oregon on Oct 24, 2020 17:28:56 GMT -5
oregon Hey I have that same model of slab grabber in the left of the top photo. It came with a parcel in an estate sale and I'm missing some parts to it. Could you PM me some photos of the entire unit so I can see what a complete original looks like? This way I can fabricate the missing parts and make it usable. Thanks
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Post by oregon on Oct 23, 2020 21:44:59 GMT -5
MsAli I have to agree that is pretty amazing stuff. I have never seen or herd of that where is it from This is from Oregon. From what I've read its outside of q town called Prineville yeah, hard to find big and thick pieces... usually a layer ~ 1-2 cm so you won't get many slabs out of usable pcs... fun to think it was bat guano, not sure that's true but a good name/story is worth a bit...
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Post by oregon on Oct 23, 2020 16:29:11 GMT -5
I've had gears made by Al Meekins, Zephyrhills Fl. Better than the originals. cost? did you get ones for the Robbin Myers motors, or the GE ones? They are different unfortunately. 3d PETG lasted a while, but not a permanent solution...
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Post by oregon on Oct 23, 2020 11:24:22 GMT -5
Well, the ad promised a dark & scary basement with some lapidary equipment.... who could resist?
Picked up a 10" lortone slab saw, the what I thought might be Foredom units turned out to be just dremels. Some lathe parts & tools made up for it. This machinist's tool box had a mix of lapidary parts and non lapidary tools in it. There's a pic of the bottom drawer, with a old Bill's slab grabber on the left, and an interesting looking piece of equipment on the right. The Delrin? Pins are beveled like a slab grabber and simply slide out of the holes to be arranged as needed. Twisting the knob opens/closes the jaws. Bit of machining there with bevel gears, and left handed threading....
Anyway, it certainly looks like a non-one-off piece of equipment, is it supposed to be a slab grabber? or something else? Anyone recognize it? no markings other than the bevel gear part number.
Couple other interesting old tools as bonus ID's if you recognize them.. pat'd sept 2-13, that might be a bit dated...
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