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Post by oregon on Apr 20, 2021 18:49:09 GMT -5
313 77
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Post by oregon on Apr 5, 2021 18:53:31 GMT -5
. The long pointy one in the middle is something I've never seen before, triangular in cross section and flaked at a very steep angle. Tip is worn almost like it was some kind of digging implement. I've seen similar "picks of obsidian near Clear Lake in California but this is a first for this ranch.
though smaller, reminds me of the "drill" in the ohio flint pamphlet....
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Post by oregon on Mar 28, 2021 13:24:01 GMT -5
Anyone been to Nether's just recently? i.e are they open, still self service? any general directions of which way to wander?
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Post by oregon on Mar 18, 2021 18:18:41 GMT -5
Just giving a bump to the top for the last evening of bidding... thx Randy.
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Post by oregon on Mar 3, 2021 23:26:28 GMT -5
The vast majority of "dead" shaded pole motors suffer from either a dried grease filled gearbox, or varnished oil on the bronze bushings. Shaded pole motors have very little startup torque. i.e. send me the dead one 3-5 rpm
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Post by oregon on Feb 17, 2021 13:01:27 GMT -5
Never understood why Lortone doesn't dimple the Al plate and put a flat head bolt in there. Guess they wouldn't sell as many replacement liners...
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Post by oregon on Feb 16, 2021 19:16:23 GMT -5
nope, just DC motors, not steppers.
Actually they are steppers. Driver runs at 5V and the page even has a step file for download. That's OK! Maybe even better. STEP files are CAD representations - use to CAD models, manufacturers have to provide files if they want folks to design with their products. The robotics suppliers generally provide drop ins for most all of the parts they sell.
5V is for the encoder on the rear of the motor, You can use the encoders & PWM to drive the speed of the motors, but you can equally ignore them. These are just brushed DC motors. We haven't worn out brushes with a lot of use, but 24/7 is quite a different use, ymmv.
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Post by oregon on Jan 31, 2021 23:36:50 GMT -5
Planetary gear boxes are just robust. usually 5-10x the torque ratings of an equivalent spur gearbox.
The 117 rpm motor here, closest to the classic xerox sphere machine motor is rated at more than twice the torque that those old GE mina gear motors are. I bet you could drive a hefty tumbler with these as well, DC, so should be pretty straightforward to control speed etc.
Competitive robotics has evolved a lot of nice gear that's able to withstand some abrupt forces/abuse.
Looks like those are steppers. Does that mean they need a driver? nope, just DC motors, not steppers.
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Post by oregon on Jan 30, 2021 19:48:10 GMT -5
They are really cool. The basic motor #5202 in 12volts is $39. Plus they have affordable accessories like shaft couplings for 6mm shafts, mounting hubs (like to attach a saw blade), motor mount brackets and plates, and small U-channels with holes. All reasonably priced, and definitely NOT toys. One stop shopping. ! Planetary gear boxes are just robust. usually 5-10x the torque ratings of an equivalent spur gearbox.
The 117 rpm motor here, closest to the classic xerox sphere machine motor is rated at more than twice the torque that those old GE mina gear motors are. I bet you could drive a hefty tumbler with these as well, DC, so should be pretty straightforward to control speed etc.
Competitive robotics has evolved a lot of nice gear that's able to withstand some abrupt forces/abuse.
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Post by oregon on Jan 27, 2021 16:13:18 GMT -5
I can post a few more pictures of the machine if you’re interested. I worked with similar motors with several robotics teams, They would figure out ways to bust the gear boxes... There are several vendors that sell planetary gear versions, with huge torque ratings. never had students bust a gear box again. Lots of different RPM choices... several vendors, eg www.gobilda.com/yellow-jacket-planetary-gear-motors/#series_5203
put some larger pics up when you get a chance, always thought using some of these on a sphere grinder would be viable...
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Post by oregon on Jan 24, 2021 16:46:16 GMT -5
That's the word! I will indeed. Even if I find the best materials, this may not work, but worth the experiement. The material is fine with any petroleum-based oils, so I just realized I can easily Google and find out the oils with the lowest viscosity, then give it a go.
I suggest you wander over to the chemistry dept and make a new friend. Seriously, this polymer is a protein, quite different than the bulk of plastic hydrocarbons. Without looking it up, I imagine the formaldehyde crosslinks as well as denatures the casein protein to form galalith. I'd also venture that the resulting 'plastic' still retains a bit of water, and the osmotic strength of what ever solution you put it in is probably important. I'd take a guess that you might find that some other protein solvents behave better than oils even though the galalith is no longer technically a protein. Glycerin, poly ethylene glycol,sugar, or maybe a high salt concentration keep it from absorbing water if you figure out the right concentrations.
2c
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Post by oregon on Jan 14, 2021 19:07:24 GMT -5
Looks like a nice job, imagine you'll do mostly hand sawing on this - with that large pulley on the side, it's quite a bit above the table, kinda worrying to grab *something*. You might do well to build a belt guard before you're done and call it finished. 2c
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Post by oregon on Jan 13, 2021 15:05:32 GMT -5
yeah, think I put a 0.32 mk 303 in my 10" saw thinking along those lines. It cuts fine, but when I replace it I'll probably get something thicker. Seems like it cuts fairly well, but on occasion when I slide the vise back I'll see the deflection of the blade. I think that if the surface is irregular at the start, the thinner blade has a more likely chance of heading off in a different trajectory.
All speculation. Cutting hard stuff here and I did line everything up with indicators etc. And yes, the less 'gunking of the oil' is noticable.
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Post by oregon on Jan 12, 2021 16:25:07 GMT -5
cool find thx for that. Even Randy RWA3006 should be interested with the gastroliths. (although there wasn't a mention of poop
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Post by oregon on Jan 12, 2021 15:07:31 GMT -5
guessing someone's age... there's a contest with consequences.
25 28 30
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Post by oregon on Jan 11, 2021 18:59:19 GMT -5
Is it a sure thing that I will need a cover for splashing oil? Your saw is so fancy on top I can barely recognize the base. nope, the whole autofeed contraption/vise lifts off with two thumbscrews. pretty clever. Always good to *try* to contain the oil.
Your mounts look impressive. I still think you should check your pulleys/blade speed. With the pulleys I see (5:2 or such) , it looks like you'll be driving the blade way faster than the manufacturers suggest? assuming a generic 1725rpm motor... www.mkdiamond.com/lapidary/tec_speed.html
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Post by oregon on Jan 10, 2021 2:52:52 GMT -5
Should be a good saw for you.
If you were trimming preforms for cabs the arbor above the table would be a plus. Prevents cutting too far on the bottom of the slab.
The steel rounded arbor washer right there also gives me true max reach of the blade for cutting depth. There is no table thickness or table insert thickness to get in my way of using all the depth that the blade has to offer. I refurbed one of these last year, nice saw. it was set up with an autofeed that basically brought the table level up above the flange if that makes sense. So if you wanted to cut larger slabs say, you could just build a table to get you above the flange/arbor.
- the perpendicular blade has it's uses.
- I think the pulley sizes were a little larger? not sure you might want to check the recommended blade speed...
sry the only pic I posted, I'm sure google will help you, the new Tc-10 is still pretty similar?
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Post by oregon on Jan 9, 2021 22:37:31 GMT -5
36.9 39.6 44.4
cheers.
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Post by oregon on Jan 7, 2021 11:47:03 GMT -5
not sure I see it on the second photo, but maybe? the third... usually an orifice on the collar behind the clamp. if installed with thought, it would be on 'top' to allow the oil to feed down to the felt/bronze sleeve. New motors usually have plugs, which tend to get lost. Wouldn't hurt to cover the electrical connection opening while you're at it.
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Post by oregon on Dec 16, 2020 13:19:24 GMT -5
lapidary blades recommendations...
tile
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