zarguy
fully equipped rock polisher
Cedar City, Utah - rockhound heaven!
Member since December 2005
Posts: 1,791
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Post by zarguy on Nov 20, 2017 16:41:11 GMT -5
minerken Thanks! It looks like 7919A57 (UNF female 3/8 24 LH to UNF male 9/16 18 LH) is the connector I'm looking for. From Airgas the Radnor version of the part is RAD64003981 $7.20. Lynn
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zarguy
fully equipped rock polisher
Cedar City, Utah - rockhound heaven!
Member since December 2005
Posts: 1,791
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Post by zarguy on Nov 20, 2017 16:36:13 GMT -5
rockjunquie - Tela Here's the nail I use for dopping: I get them from Home Depot. I cut about an inch off the sharp end & then grind the end smooth. I also flatten the top with a disk sander. It's supposed to be for wood, but it can handle a little metal. Sometimes I make the top small, square, or oval to fit smaller cabs. Lynn Thank you. I got an assortment of sizes from Lowe's, but the heads are heavily textured. I'm not sure I have the right tools to flatten them. And, they are coated with plastic. I got some nails with smooth heads and no coating, but they are too thin. There has to be one juuuust right. Looks like the one in your picture is a 16D or 20D? I liked those sizes. DH has a hobby belt sander with 120 grit, I believe. Do you think that would work to flatten the heads? 120 grit sandpaper in a disk or belt will do the trick. You just need to hold the nail perpendicular to the sandpaper. I only let the superglue dry for an hour or so. Sometimes less with really thin stuff. Lynn
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zarguy
fully equipped rock polisher
Cedar City, Utah - rockhound heaven!
Member since December 2005
Posts: 1,791
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Post by zarguy on Nov 20, 2017 15:58:39 GMT -5
rockjunquie - Tela Here's the nail I use for dopping: I get them from Home Depot. I cut about an inch off the sharp end & then grind the end smooth. I also flatten the top with a disk sander. It's supposed to be for wood, but it can handle a little metal. Sometimes I make the top small, square, or oval to fit smaller cabs. Lynn
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zarguy
fully equipped rock polisher
Cedar City, Utah - rockhound heaven!
Member since December 2005
Posts: 1,791
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Post by zarguy on Nov 20, 2017 12:39:11 GMT -5
I have an acetylene B tank with the type of regulator typically used with a Tubotorch, PrestoLite, Uniweld, etc. acetylene/air torch. The regulator has a male thread coming out of it that's the same thread I showed in the picture. I want to adapt that to a Smith Little torch which has 9/16 18 LH female, so I need an adapter between those 2 threads. I live in a small town. There are welding stores an hour away. Closed on Saturday, which is probably when I'd get a chance to go. Since I will probably buy it online, I need to know the correct designation since I won't be able to try it out in the store or ask a salesperson. Probably most salespeople know about welding, not jewelry soldering. I'm bet Radnor makes an adapter. And what about the oxygen you ask? I acquired a medical oxygen concentrator to supply the oxy. There are lots of YouTube videos on the subject. Rio Grande even sells a system based on a medical oxy concentrator, although it's got disposable propane bottles instead of acetylene. Lynn zarguy Lynn so what you are trying to do is hook up a tee or Y right off the B tank regulator then hook your presto-lite torch hose to one side and then your Little Torch Hose to the other side so you can use either as needed is that correct? You perked my interest in this because I have all the same equipment. If this is correct let me know and I will go to my local welding shop and get the skinny on what the parts are. ~Duke TheRock - Duke, I was going to do that, but I've acquired a second Acetylene B tank. Now I can have one dedicated to my Turbo torch & the other dedicated to my Smith Little torch. It will be easier to manage always having a full tank now that I have 2. They charge a lot more for acetylene at the car parts store in my town than the welding supply an hour away. So I just need an adapter to go between the threaded nipple from the regulator to the hose on my Smith Little torch. The male thread coming out of the regulator is the same as the thread on the Turbo torch valve in the photo. The female thread of the Smith Little torch is 9/16 18 LH. Lynn
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zarguy
fully equipped rock polisher
Cedar City, Utah - rockhound heaven!
Member since December 2005
Posts: 1,791
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Post by zarguy on Nov 19, 2017 1:12:04 GMT -5
15lb 2.12oz 15lb 8.23oz 15lb 12.62oz 16lb 2.90oz 16lb 8.34oz
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zarguy
fully equipped rock polisher
Cedar City, Utah - rockhound heaven!
Member since December 2005
Posts: 1,791
|
Post by zarguy on Nov 18, 2017 20:29:38 GMT -5
I have an acetylene B tank with the type of regulator typically used with a Tubotorch, PrestoLite, Uniweld, etc. acetylene/air torch.
The regulator has a male thread coming out of it that's the same thread I showed in the picture.
I want to adapt that to a Smith Little torch which has 9/16 18 LH female, so I need an adapter between those 2 threads.
I live in a small town. There are welding stores an hour away. Closed on Saturday, which is probably when I'd get a chance to go. Since I will probably buy it online, I need to know the correct designation since I won't be able to try it out in the store or ask a salesperson. Probably most salespeople know about welding, not jewelry soldering.
I'm bet Radnor makes an adapter.
And what about the oxygen you ask? I acquired a medical oxygen concentrator to supply the oxy. There are lots of YouTube videos on the subject. Rio Grande even sells a system based on a medical oxy concentrator, although it's got disposable propane bottles instead of acetylene. Lynn
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zarguy
fully equipped rock polisher
Cedar City, Utah - rockhound heaven!
Member since December 2005
Posts: 1,791
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Post by zarguy on Nov 17, 2017 22:27:39 GMT -5
Take it to a hardware store and see what nut or bolt fits. That will tell you the size and the thread. It doesn't work that way. The name of the connector isn't based on its actual size, but on the inside diameter of the pipe that it connects to. I need to buy an obscure adapter by its name, not actual measurement. It will be connecting 2 different threads. They won't have it in a local store, so I'll be buying it online. Lynn
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zarguy
fully equipped rock polisher
Cedar City, Utah - rockhound heaven!
Member since December 2005
Posts: 1,791
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Post by zarguy on Nov 17, 2017 17:44:35 GMT -5
I'm trying to identify the threads on a Presto-Lite torch handle/hose so I can buy fittings to connect it and a Smith Little torch to a Y adapter on my Acetylene regulator. I know it's Left Hand. Someone said 3/8"-24, Someone else said 1/4"-24. I wish I could just measure the thread & know what it's called, but plumbing/welding threads are often designated, not by the actual size, but by the inside diameter of the pipe that it fits! Lynn
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zarguy
fully equipped rock polisher
Cedar City, Utah - rockhound heaven!
Member since December 2005
Posts: 1,791
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Post by zarguy on Nov 15, 2017 20:01:40 GMT -5
I thought I'd start the hobby off inexpensively, so I bought a Thumler's Model T off eBay. It arrived yesterday, and when I plugged it in, the motor sounded like a chain stuck in the garbage disposal. If I put any pressure on the top case, it would physically slow the motor down. I thought there might be some contact or something so I loosened the bolts and pushed the motor down as far as the casing would allow, and then tightened back up. When I tried again, it was better, but still REALLY noisy. I thought maybe that's just how it is, so I let it run, and after about 30 seconds, it started to bog down and slow down, and I just unplugged it so that it didn't burn anything up. It is rivited together, so I didn't get into the case at all (yet), but I wanted to ask some advice. Is the motor shot, can I do anything to try to resuscitate it, or is it just throwing good money after bad? I looked online and it doesn't appear that they offer replacement motors for that model, but I suspect if I knew the specs, I could find something. I appreciate any thoughts/guidance. Before you dump this motor . I found that most are just gunked up or dirty. You can clean it. disconnect the motor and remove from tumbler. soak the entire motor in mineral Spirits. for a Day or overnight. leave the plug out side . . Turn the pulley several times. . next day let the motor Dry out either by itself Or with a hair dryer On Cool. Once dry Oil then Plug in. it should run well . do not plug in while in the solution It may smell a while but will go away Sal salpal48 , I have paint thinner. Will that work? The Dayton model 9M481, 1/100 HP, 1550 RPM motor on my tumbler died. I ran it for a couple of months, shut it down for a few days & when I went to start it up again it wouldn't budge. I can barely turn the shaft by hand. I would love to revive it before buying a replacement motor. Here's the tumbler. Is this the predecessor to the Tru Square line of Thumbler tumblers? I got in an estate sale with 2 Lortone barrels, which I like better than Thumbler's barrels. Lynn
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zarguy
fully equipped rock polisher
Cedar City, Utah - rockhound heaven!
Member since December 2005
Posts: 1,791
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Post by zarguy on Nov 15, 2017 0:14:56 GMT -5
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zarguy
fully equipped rock polisher
Cedar City, Utah - rockhound heaven!
Member since December 2005
Posts: 1,791
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Post by zarguy on Nov 14, 2017 14:24:56 GMT -5
chinnychinchin, when I lived in Cupertino, I hunted beach agates around Pescadero Beach. Just hop on 84 to San Gregorio or 92 to Half Moon Bay & drive down the coast. There has been discussion about the Pescadero area here on the forum. A Google search of pescadero rocktumblinghobby turns up some good results. Lynn
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zarguy
fully equipped rock polisher
Cedar City, Utah - rockhound heaven!
Member since December 2005
Posts: 1,791
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Post by zarguy on Nov 13, 2017 10:29:27 GMT -5
Brian, A great way to spend a fall day. I love the moss jasp/agates. They make nice cabs. Lynn
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zarguy
fully equipped rock polisher
Cedar City, Utah - rockhound heaven!
Member since December 2005
Posts: 1,791
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Post by zarguy on Nov 12, 2017 23:55:15 GMT -5
I had Infinity Stamps create mine. Total with shipping was about $110 3 years ago. Mine is on 5/16" steel stock and the image is about 1/4" square. I designed the logo in Adobe Illustrator & sent them the file in multiple line weights. They advised me which would work best for Sterling Silver. I'm very pleased with the results. Lynn
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zarguy
fully equipped rock polisher
Cedar City, Utah - rockhound heaven!
Member since December 2005
Posts: 1,791
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Post by zarguy on Nov 12, 2017 20:23:48 GMT -5
deergalrocks welcome from Southern Utah. Where in CA? What aspect of rocks are you interested in? Lapidary, tumbling, etc. Lynn
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zarguy
fully equipped rock polisher
Cedar City, Utah - rockhound heaven!
Member since December 2005
Posts: 1,791
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Post by zarguy on Nov 10, 2017 18:39:48 GMT -5
I crush the matrix, I don'r grind it. It crushes down to a fine sand. I make a dam out of masking tape and form it around the cab, fill it in with the mix & then grind the back flat after it hardens. I'm just learning all kinds of stuff from you this week sir. May I ask how you accomplish crushing it? I tried a hammer, but chunks were flying all over the garage. I had more success with a Harbor Freight arbor press. A machinist friend made a tube, cap & ram that you hit with a hammer, but I think the press works best. I'm still experimenting. Lynn
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zarguy
fully equipped rock polisher
Cedar City, Utah - rockhound heaven!
Member since December 2005
Posts: 1,791
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Post by zarguy on Nov 10, 2017 10:41:08 GMT -5
Lynn When you use the grinding method how fine is the grinding to keep the epoxy mixture even and flat ? I crush the matrix, I don'r grind it. It crushes down to a fine sand. I make a dam out of masking tape and form it around the cab, fill it in with the mix & then grind the back flat after it hardens. I know, pictures would help. I may have time to shoot some on Saturday. I haven't yet made a large enough quantity to spread on waxed paper & set the cabs/preforms into like people do with JB Weld. I hope to experiment with that method though. Lynn
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zarguy
fully equipped rock polisher
Cedar City, Utah - rockhound heaven!
Member since December 2005
Posts: 1,791
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Post by zarguy on Nov 8, 2017 10:19:42 GMT -5
For Turquoise, many people use Devcon epoxy or JB Weld. I don't like to have black backing on my Turquoise cabs, so I started crushing Turquoise matrix (I have some Royston, which has lots of matrix) and mixing it with epoxy. You could crush anything that has the color you want. Lynn
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zarguy
fully equipped rock polisher
Cedar City, Utah - rockhound heaven!
Member since December 2005
Posts: 1,791
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Post by zarguy on Nov 8, 2017 9:59:02 GMT -5
Thanks for the post zarguy. Yeah I have to admit to getting sticker shock too with 8oz at $80 compared to 8oz of Opticon at $32. After I took a deeper look at it and having watched a few of the video on mixing it seems like you'd use less of the Hxtal - mixing precisely what you need to coat a given area. I don't stabilize very often but I'm always struck by the amount of opticon that gets wasted pouring it in and out of the container and wiping off the excess etc. Would you agree with this assessment Lynn? I've never tried Opticon. Hxtal costs $50 plus maybe $10 shipping for the smallest size. Split it with another lapidary friend & the $30 you spend will last a while & treat lots of slabs/cabs. Sell one $30 cab & you're home free. If you're near any of the dealers that carry it, you can avoid the shipping charge. I see there's one in Denver near I-70 & 25. If I need any when I'm there for the Gem show next year, I'll buy it in person. The stuff I bought from Helen was a 1:2 mix. This is designated as 1:3. She said they were the same thing, but wouldn't elaborate when I asked why the ratio was different. Lynn
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zarguy
fully equipped rock polisher
Cedar City, Utah - rockhound heaven!
Member since December 2005
Posts: 1,791
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Post by zarguy on Nov 7, 2017 17:23:11 GMT -5
rockjunquie , It's pretty thin. Thinner than most epoxies. In fact, I've had it flow through a crack to the other side of the slab & glue the slab to my metal block. Now after the initial heating, I sometimes put toothpicks under the slab to keep it off the metal. I got an inexpensive sample from helen, a member (former?) of this forum. After trying it out, I bought some & split it with a lapidary friend. I've since bought the 1/4 lb kit for myself. It seems that most of the best stuff I find needs to be stabilized. I recently had some beautiful Dino Bone that was so porous, that it just wouldn't take a shine. It soaked up the Hxtal & took an awesome shine. I thought I was going to keep it & wear it myself. While wearing at my most recent show, a woman asked if it was also fore sale. She owns it now! I haven't had any problem with the separate components hardening or yellowing. Lynn Sorry about the photo quality. I took it moments before she walked away with it.
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zarguy
fully equipped rock polisher
Cedar City, Utah - rockhound heaven!
Member since December 2005
Posts: 1,791
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Post by zarguy on Nov 7, 2017 13:57:03 GMT -5
patagonianstar Bienvenidos desde Cedar City, Utah, EEUU. I'm sure I've seen your web page or maybe you were at Quartzite? Lynn
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