robsrockshop
has rocks in the head
Member since August 2012
Posts: 715
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Post by robsrockshop on Oct 3, 2013 11:07:18 GMT -5
I'm not an Obama fan but if 'everything' includes taking over an already collapsing economy and trillions of handed off debt that's not much to work with. I don't think it would've matter who got elected.
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robsrockshop
has rocks in the head
Member since August 2012
Posts: 715
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Post by robsrockshop on Oct 3, 2013 10:57:42 GMT -5
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robsrockshop
has rocks in the head
Member since August 2012
Posts: 715
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Post by robsrockshop on Oct 3, 2013 10:32:21 GMT -5
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robsrockshop
has rocks in the head
Member since August 2012
Posts: 715
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Post by robsrockshop on Oct 3, 2013 10:29:04 GMT -5
The sky is falling for some like my neighbors who both work at the fort. She is sitting at home and they are making him go to work, do his normal job and NOT get paid. He has his older brother living with them and they were going to have to lean on him but he got laid off 2 days ago. Told them I could offer 1 20hr week job at $10hr but that's all I could do money wise. Think any of the following crap is true or just some jerk trying to flip everyone out: www.freedomsphoenix.com/News/142729-2013-10-02-obamacare-fines-to-be-seized-from-bank-accounts.htm?From=News
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robsrockshop
has rocks in the head
Member since August 2012
Posts: 715
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Post by robsrockshop on Oct 3, 2013 9:26:28 GMT -5
Screw driven saws will have a section of the feed screw threads machined away so the carriage will stop at that point. Mine have adjustable auto shut-off as well. Lee Right. But what i'm saying is that this style of vise has the top plate extend out the rear of the vise, possibly as far as the entire length if you were cutting something narrow that needed the entire height of the blade. I have not seen this setup in person and in my mind it seems it would have different stopping points which would make machining out a stop point impossible. Gravity feed wouldn't be a problem, but this would unless you had a good clutch setup which is unlikely. I suppose you could cut a hole in the rear of the saw and let it extend and put a catch pan under it. I really have no idea since I haven't seen one i'm just wondering about it maybe my line of thinking isn't catching on to something here I don't know. I mean I suppose you could reclamp the rock longways etc etc etc.
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robsrockshop
has rocks in the head
Member since August 2012
Posts: 715
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Post by robsrockshop on Oct 3, 2013 8:59:00 GMT -5
I love the sound of an 18 inch blade cutting slowly thru a jaw full of hard agate. With a tiny 1/2 HP motor. I know that things are lined up when i can turn the saw off with a 6" x 10" agate almost all the way thru the cut and turn it back on and starts up effortlessly. I knew of a 24 inch HP that had many years on the blade. The owner always cut slow. Pretty sure the 18HP I just came home with has the original blade on it. The previous owner had it set on its slowest speed. Still pretty fast though at close to 9-10" hour it seems ill have to time it again and see.
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robsrockshop
has rocks in the head
Member since August 2012
Posts: 715
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Post by robsrockshop on Oct 2, 2013 20:47:16 GMT -5
If I had the means I would go there. I'd love to explore that. I'd def have to lose a few pounds first lol. I've seen this cave online before but i'm still amazed with it. Only pic that disturbed me was the gal pulling herself thru the water.......looks like only holding on with one hand and no tie offs? Perhaps they should pay me to go there and teach them safety. She's probably gona get her ass sued off by OSHA now. LOL.
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robsrockshop
has rocks in the head
Member since August 2012
Posts: 715
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Post by robsrockshop on Oct 2, 2013 20:40:59 GMT -5
When Barranca was still repairing their notched rim blades they had many customers with Diamond Pacific hydraulic feed saws and Lortone saws. The hydraulic feed was not the culprit so much as owners trying to feed too fast against dull blades. Same issue with the "fastest cutting saws" from Lortone. Not gona get real far with a dull blade. An exp cutter could probably handle dressing a blade and know when to do it.......feel sorry for the newbie. Hell.....let's just make a saw that cuts 100" per hour lol.
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robsrockshop
has rocks in the head
Member since August 2012
Posts: 715
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Post by robsrockshop on Oct 1, 2013 17:19:32 GMT -5
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robsrockshop
has rocks in the head
Member since August 2012
Posts: 715
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Post by robsrockshop on Oct 1, 2013 17:15:31 GMT -5
I thought about a lot of those designs. I have a 72 x 36 x 24 inch deep cabinet of 1/8 steel. It is laid over and i welded 5 gallon sumps in each end to manage sludge.2 inch drains on each. It is on 8 inch castors. I was going to do it like a Highland Park or Covington except lose the screw drive and rig a steel cable on a pulley up in the air so it would have 3-4 feet of travel(ie long drop). And build a simple stout carriage and simple rails to run it on. It would weigh 1000 pounds easy. So. Use red iron for most of it. Target was a 30 inch blade. I have the container finished. I one day may build a big saw. To me bigger is easier. Little 18 covington is fairly complicated. Lots of moving parts and lite. The big box is strong enough to be structural so welding directly to it would be fine. But my thoughts was to have a horizontal carriage with a steel cable and weight to pull it along. Fixed blade. Just feels safer than drop arrangement. I doubt I would ever actually build that because I also think it's not as safe and would just be a lot of headache. It's just an idea I kicked around in my head being someone that likes to build things. I couldn't really think of any advantage to it.
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robsrockshop
has rocks in the head
Member since August 2012
Posts: 715
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Post by robsrockshop on Oct 1, 2013 17:09:56 GMT -5
in any saw the vice to hold the stone is the (forgive me) "keystone" of the deal. Without a good solid vice. Nothing else works. Jim are you utilizing a pulley/cable/weight to pull the carriage? 3-4 feet of travel is very long and requires the weight have a similar 3-4 foot drop. Thatsa tall saw! I guess you would build a platform around it and a gantry/hoist system above for positioning giant rocks. Hell, you could have the lid on rails so it will simply roll back and out of the way. You just put the weight feed rope under the first pulley and then have a pulley mounted higher and loop it over the top of that to your desired distance. Much easier than building a platform or digging a hole. The hoist system is not a bad idea,neither is a rolling hood however a hood that opens along the long end of the saw is a possibility so it's not sticking up in the air so far. Maybe even a 2 pc type set up, fold down in front etc etc there's endless possibilities.
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robsrockshop
has rocks in the head
Member since August 2012
Posts: 715
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Post by robsrockshop on Oct 1, 2013 13:14:20 GMT -5
Here's a saw I haven't seen yet. What a bargain lol: www.diamondpacific.net/swing_arm_slab_saws.htmlAnd apparently someone is thinking just like me because I thought of this design a long time ago so it was kinda odd seeing it. Not much of a hydraulics guy so didn't do it and I was going to use some kind of brake system. Except mine was going to be a 36" saw and the rock would go in the very bottom so you didn't have to lift it up, etc.
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robsrockshop
has rocks in the head
Member since August 2012
Posts: 715
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Post by robsrockshop on Oct 1, 2013 13:06:18 GMT -5
Having problem with the link but just read placing the weight in water or oil will reduce the cutting force and reduce end of cut breakouts. That makes a lot of sense. I would assume doesn't work as well as the plunger but it might work good and this might be something of interests to others here to try and see. I certainly didn't know about it.
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robsrockshop
has rocks in the head
Member since August 2012
Posts: 715
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Post by robsrockshop on Oct 1, 2013 12:50:33 GMT -5
Gravity sure sounds logical. Steve at Covington did tell me one time that gravity never failed him. LOL. Other advantages......less broken crap to worry about. And.........trying to stay away from hydraulic altogether. Works great, just don't want to deal with it at the present time. As far as the Great Western saws they also have easily moveable vises which is why the gravity works well. I only seen one time and was wondering why a hydraulic saw would need a weight feed now I know it's just a shock absorber. Question is does it offer counter resistance, not just a device for the end of the cut, which would fall in line with Shotguners idea? I'll just play around with it later this week or next.
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robsrockshop
has rocks in the head
Member since August 2012
Posts: 715
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Post by robsrockshop on Oct 1, 2013 9:56:11 GMT -5
So on that design of saw since the vise would be stopping at different points depending on the rock size and how far the top vise plate sticks out of the back of the vise............I assume you aren't able to make a stop in the feedshaft to where it can't drive the vise any further?
So what happens? Is there enough give in the feedmotor belt that it won't drive further as the belt will slip or does it start warping the feedscrew and cause problems? Which I realize isn't a problem if you set the auto-shutoff and don't leave the saw unattended.
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robsrockshop
has rocks in the head
Member since August 2012
Posts: 715
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Post by robsrockshop on Oct 1, 2013 9:50:41 GMT -5
Any advantage to adding a counter weight in the front I wonder or would that just be give and take? Thought it might offer a more controlled type deal not sure. Also seen other things like stretch cords, fish scales etc.
I don't have any exp using gravity on large saws and would like to hear how you do it etc. I can add powerfeeds that's not an issue. I have a vise set up that has very little drag because of the design and I thought it might be a good candidate because there would be very little resistance otherwise in other words a free rolling vise.
Big difference between that setup and the standard 2 rods or 1 rod and metal on metal. It's like pulling a car with all 4 wheels inflated vs. pulling a car with a flat tire.
No pics at the moment just giving you the general idea and would welcome any comments to consider once I start messing around with it here pretty soon.
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robsrockshop
has rocks in the head
Member since August 2012
Posts: 715
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Post by robsrockshop on Oct 1, 2013 9:43:51 GMT -5
The key should be long enough to fit completely under the set screw. Take the set screw completely out. Drive the key in until it's flush with the outside of the pulley, or as far in as it will go. Put a dab of non hardening locktite on the set screw and tighten it down. The problem should be cured. My Covington 16" used to do the same thing. Even had to chase a pulley down the driveway a couple times. Since using the locktite I've never had the problem again. Chase a pulley? Awesome.
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robsrockshop
has rocks in the head
Member since August 2012
Posts: 715
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Post by robsrockshop on Sept 30, 2013 11:07:21 GMT -5
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robsrockshop
has rocks in the head
Member since August 2012
Posts: 715
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Post by robsrockshop on Sept 30, 2013 9:24:16 GMT -5
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robsrockshop
has rocks in the head
Member since August 2012
Posts: 715
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Post by robsrockshop on Sept 30, 2013 8:35:08 GMT -5
That's a nice looking paint job for roller and brush i'll have to look into that type paint you used thanks for sharing that. I hate spraying paint, esp saw tanks all those fumes start rolling and just is a real pain.
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