bmw2002
starting to shine!
Member since April 2017
Posts: 34
|
Post by bmw2002 on Nov 10, 2018 15:30:44 GMT -5
Has anyone used carbide tipped chisels to prospect? Are they worth the price when trying to break stone like green lizard rhyolite?
Thanks
|
|
bmw2002
starting to shine!
Member since April 2017
Posts: 34
|
Post by bmw2002 on Nov 10, 2018 15:21:26 GMT -5
I have purchased stone from Jeff twice. His stone is worth the price. His grading system is spot on.
|
|
bmw2002
starting to shine!
Member since April 2017
Posts: 34
|
Post by bmw2002 on Oct 26, 2018 15:26:34 GMT -5
I bought two regular 280 and 600 soft nova's from Darius a year ago. They are still performing, but all these wheels eventually wear out. I bought a set of the Narleys from him this spring. I have some old agate which I toned down with my old carborundum wheels for the break in period, as these new Narley's will cut into a stone until broken in. I am very pleased with Darius and B/A!! Always responds quickly. I go direct to him, and not E Bay. For reasons unmentioned.
As it said in a previous post, using some method of dopping your stone will save nails and bits of finger tip skin. I would give it a while before holding stones up to the wheels without a dop.
|
|
bmw2002
starting to shine!
Member since April 2017
Posts: 34
|
Post by bmw2002 on Aug 17, 2018 14:20:54 GMT -5
I am not sure if this unit needs or is meant to have an arbor shaft or not. I have not dealt with enough slant laps to make that determination. It is one of those older models made out steel and built like a 55 Chevy, with a good motor with excellent bearings as far as I can tell. It has its own water supply that looks almost like a lawn mower gas tank in miniature. I believe it is an old Lortone or Highland Park. No label on it. Blue powder painted.
Excuse my naivety, but the unit never appeared to have an arbor, although there is a 5/8" hole in the center that appears to be how the lap is attached to the unit. Do you use a glued discs, something magnetic, or make an arbor? The outer( rubber?) ring seems to be something used to retain a grinding disc on the lap plate? Not sure as it does not exactly fit the lap plate.
I bought it as a challenge, as it was not expensive relative to new ones, and if I can get it running, I could do some things I have not done before. Another reason my dad did lapidary on a horizontal flat lap back in the early seventies. Got me started in this, of and on over the years, especially the last seven years. Any help would be gratefully appreciated.
|
|
bmw2002
starting to shine!
Member since April 2017
Posts: 34
|
Post by bmw2002 on Jun 8, 2018 18:19:32 GMT -5
I went back and resurrected the old JB thread on RTH about Johnson Brothers. I may have missed more recent posts, but it seems like the last ones were around early 2015 and before. The topic was a mixed bag. Some liked them and others did not. I came across their booth at Quartzite, and I tried to talk to them, but they seemed defensive. OK, who knows? Any one deal with them lately and wish to comment?
I really do not wish to do my own rehab of grinding wheels, especially the soft ones. I do not wish to experiment with epoxy, and diamond grit as it takes way from my stone grinding, sanding, polishing and carving. Any recommendation on their refurbishment of wheels? I had a friend who sent them a wheel, and never heard back. What I cannot understand is, if they are dishonest, unreliable, and just too much trouble, then why do they remain in business as long as they have? Maybe I am naive. I cannot find anyone else that rehabs old wheels. Is there enough of a price difference between new ones and rehabs?
If there are more reliable rehab guys out there, that would be great to know. Thanks!
|
|
bmw2002
starting to shine!
Member since April 2017
Posts: 34
|
Post by bmw2002 on Jun 8, 2018 17:57:44 GMT -5
I ordered, through e bay a 280 soft wheel, to remove scratches generated from my 220 grinding steel wheel . This was several months and cabs ago. Still working fine, but of course it is starting to give up the ghost. I cannot complain. I am going see how long the wheel will perform, but I am pretty sure that I am going to get some of the Rez wheels in various mesh. Takes awhile to break in, with agate, etc, but after that will work longer, I hope. Darius gave me some good advice about the break in period of the Rez wheels, and what to use. You can e mail him directly about any concerns you may have @ darius@baltic-abrasives.com. I do not know if he ships direct outside of e bay, but you can see. Maybe at a direct sale price?? I don't know.
|
|
bmw2002
starting to shine!
Member since April 2017
Posts: 34
|
Post by bmw2002 on May 3, 2018 18:46:02 GMT -5
Fantastic work. The carving is one of the most intricate I have ever seen.
|
|
bmw2002
starting to shine!
Member since April 2017
Posts: 34
|
Post by bmw2002 on May 3, 2018 18:38:59 GMT -5
Thanks to everyone. After messing with the arbor shaft, and pulleys on the saw, I noted that the set screw on the pulley of the arbor shaft was not connecting to the key. For some reason it had sheared off. Got a new one, put some spacers between the reservoir and the motor which helped tightened the loose belt as it had too much play. Cleaned up the motor, put a new blade in, and am happy to say that I am now slip, slabbing away!! Thanks to all of you for your help. I would have never figured it out. Yes, I agree that a 1/3 HP, 1725 RPM is more than sufficient. Only thing is that Star Diamond put in a 3/4 HP unit as original equipment, as I bought this saw used. Maybe some one previously did a change out. Works like a champ now. I am a SD fan!!
|
|
bmw2002
starting to shine!
Member since April 2017
Posts: 34
|
Post by bmw2002 on Apr 27, 2018 15:50:37 GMT -5
I believe my old Star Diomond 10" motor is about to conk. It hesitates a lot these days, so it could be the capacitor, or something else that needs an overhaul. My question is that original GE motor is a 3/4 HP @1725 rpm's. I would like to upgrade to a 1 HP with the same 1725 rpm's if that is possible? Should I stick with the mfg's standard 3/4, or is there any benefit in increasing the HP to 1.00? Thanks with any comments.
|
|
bmw2002
starting to shine!
Member since April 2017
Posts: 34
|
Post by bmw2002 on Feb 16, 2018 16:18:50 GMT -5
Thanks everyone. If push comes, KN sells 6 x 1 shaping and forming diamond wheels. Skinny but I am careful about falling off wheel edges. I will try to see if my 6 x 1.5 can be tolerated. The Barranca unit comes with 1.5 width 6" units.
|
|
bmw2002
starting to shine!
Member since April 2017
Posts: 34
|
Post by bmw2002 on Feb 15, 2018 23:19:48 GMT -5
I really need some advice. I got a great deal on this cabbing, trim saw combination, and it was a Star Diamond 6" x1", so that did it for me. The problem is that it came with stone wheels which have been cupped over time in usage. I have gone over the equipment, and I remain impressed with SD engineering, but times change, and all my 6" wheels are now 1.5" I need to change out the wheels. I have the Barranca owner's manual for the same unit (some minor peripheral changes), To get to the point, I am not comfortable with lifting the shaft out of the unit, and I am really do not know if trimming the spacers by 1" to accommodate the extra 1" for the new wheels is up to my ability. Where would you go to get some help in getting this equipment "fixed?" There is no readily available "Lapidary Equipment repairs in my area. I am not sure if I have to replace the bearings, but I am not up to that level yet. I do keep reading and learning, but just keeping up with carving, sanding and polishing is almost full time. Thanks for any suggestions.
Mike
|
|
bmw2002
starting to shine!
Member since April 2017
Posts: 34
|
Post by bmw2002 on Feb 9, 2018 1:07:00 GMT -5
Thank you everyone for the responses. What are your thoughts concerning translucent stones and step bezels? Especially when you cut the centers out of thunder eggs. Yes, that makes me weird and crazy, but I do not do specimen stones, only jewelry. I have found some really good material out of thunder eggs, and this could make me somewhat a person who does not respect the stone. Lots of matrix, etc. Boulder opals are are a good example. Messy yes, but worth the clean up. Please note that I agonize how to best cut a stone in any direction. I am not prejudiced in any idea. I always want to learn from everyone.
I do a lot of stone carving, so, that may be the problem. That being said, other than step bezel, or some variation of it, what would you suggest as a stone setting to bring about the most amount of light to enter the stone? I am not a die-hard metal smith, but I do love utmost the nuances of a good stone. Quality Blue chalcydony, with its gradiations from light blue to almost pinkish when the light hits it right, is what I am trying to convey. I would like to suspend that stone in something that worthy! So do we all!! Words do not describe how good nature has provided. Rockjunkie is a prime example of how a good stone can be transitioned into something so beautiful!!!!! She is so gifted!
Please accept my apologies for rambling. I am not expecting many responses. This has been mostly a soliloquy!
|
|
bmw2002
starting to shine!
Member since April 2017
Posts: 34
|
Post by bmw2002 on Jan 31, 2018 19:41:32 GMT -5
I have done all my due diligence on this matter, but it would appear to me for those folks setting stones without a backin, that a step bezel may do the trick. I have looked at all the videos outside the forum, but since everyone here spends a great deal of time and care with their stones, I thought that it would be a natural thing to have as much of the stone showing ( I polish the back of my work in most cases.) It would seem that if you want maximum exposure of the stone then this would be something to consider. Probably has, so I am bringing nothing really new to the table. I just wanted to get some of the members experience on using these type bezels, either home-made or commercial say from Rio, etc.
Thanks
Mike
|
|
bmw2002
starting to shine!
Member since April 2017
Posts: 34
|
Post by bmw2002 on Jan 17, 2018 13:51:58 GMT -5
Really nice work, but you consistently produce beautiful stones. I could not come up with the name of the stone on the first pic. Thanks! Mike
|
|
bmw2002
starting to shine!
Member since April 2017
Posts: 34
|
Post by bmw2002 on Dec 20, 2017 20:13:39 GMT -5
I always look at your cabs because of the amount of work and dedication you bring to your work. It shows up in each stone. Thank you so much!!!
Mike
|
|
bmw2002
starting to shine!
Member since April 2017
Posts: 34
|
Post by bmw2002 on Nov 21, 2017 14:08:00 GMT -5
I am in the market for a new 280 g soft wheel. Many of the wheels have the term "REZ" which I don't understand. The disclaimer says they have undergo a "break in" period. What does REZ mean and what type of stone ''breaks them in" Would a piece of Carnelian agate work, and what is the length of time does it take to be fully functional on these type wheels? Thanks.
Mike
|
|
bmw2002
starting to shine!
Member since April 2017
Posts: 34
|
Post by bmw2002 on Nov 8, 2017 14:57:54 GMT -5
These are all beautiful. The bruneau being my favorite as well.
|
|
bmw2002
starting to shine!
Member since April 2017
Posts: 34
|
Post by bmw2002 on Nov 8, 2017 14:52:41 GMT -5
Is the stuff sold on Amazon any where close to the benefits of HxTal? PC Products 70147 PC-Clear Epoxy Adhesive Liquid, 1 oz Double Syringe, Clear
The price between the two gives a big advantage to Amazon!
|
|
bmw2002
starting to shine!
Member since April 2017
Posts: 34
|
Post by bmw2002 on Oct 13, 2017 13:06:37 GMT -5
Thanks to everyone. I tried scanning the equip. thread, but anyway. I appreciate your help
Mike
|
|
bmw2002
starting to shine!
Member since April 2017
Posts: 34
|
Post by bmw2002 on Oct 12, 2017 19:20:40 GMT -5
Are there any generally accepted thoughts about the reasons or frequency of changing out the oil in your rock saw reservoir? I had to get out of Cave Creek, AZ in mid May and stayed in the NW to do some noodling, etc. Got back last week. I left the oil in my reservoir (garage) during this time. I looked at it and it appears to be fine, but I wanted opinions from the forum about what prompts you to change out your oil completely. Is it just build up of gunk, or is there a life span of mineral oil (with Covington additive for upper MOH's)? Thank you as always. I have never heard of mineral oil having a life span, but who knows?
Mike
|
|