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Post by Peruano on Mar 14, 2020 17:12:53 GMT -5
aDave had just pointed out to me that flickr embeds could be clicked on to expand for better viewing and the trick came in handy for getting a better look at the "Deschutes" that was of interest to the thread. A pretty piece of rough indeed.
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Post by Peruano on Mar 14, 2020 17:05:31 GMT -5
Thanks to you both for the input. I'm still trying to recover from the Photobucket fiasco, and a 6month later computer crash on my desk so trying to implement flickr to enhance participation here. I'll take your guidance seriously. Tom
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Post by Peruano on Mar 14, 2020 12:45:29 GMT -5
Yes, BBCf. Now I need to master the Flickr protocols and post in moderation.
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Post by Peruano on Mar 13, 2020 16:49:21 GMT -5
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Post by Peruano on Mar 13, 2020 16:45:23 GMT -5
www.flickr.com/photos/186066986@N08/49213454073/in/dateposted-public/I'll go back and look for the share button. <a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/186066986@N08/49213454073/in/dateposted-public/" title="DSC_0008"><img src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49213454073_469b83211d_k.jpg" width="2048" height="1375" alt="DSC_0008"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script> DSC_0008 by Thomas Fritts, on Flickr
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Post by Peruano on Mar 11, 2020 15:50:27 GMT -5
It's not too much if you can afford it.Almost any cab main will need new wheels. Once set up you will have a Cadillac machine. Put an expando on one end for versatility. Congrats.
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Post by Peruano on Mar 11, 2020 8:16:59 GMT -5
The virus does not like cold. Hurray for the heat of the SW, help is coming in a few weeks.
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Post by Peruano on Mar 11, 2020 8:08:01 GMT -5
Am I correct that direct drive saws often run at high speeds than belt driven ones? One reason for that it that spinning thin blades at higher speeds allows them to spin truer (i.e. less wobble). In the hands of an experienced cutter with expensive material the High Tech is a good saw. Its light enough to pick up and dump out or easy to bail dry enough for a few days of disuse. I seem to recall that it is a bit under powered (i.e. easy to bog down if you crowd it). Nothing here should dissuade you but its a matter of your style in "driving": your saw. I would not want the High Tech as my only saw. A 6 or 10" Raytech is a good first saw for anyone.
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Post by Peruano on Mar 11, 2020 7:58:08 GMT -5
I agree the Raytech is the preferred machine for the points mentioned but even more so because it has easily adjusted speed. Once you learn how to use it, polishing can be more effective with slow speeds (for some situations).
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Post by Peruano on Mar 10, 2020 9:16:39 GMT -5
New wheels and you are good to go.!!
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Post by Peruano on Mar 9, 2020 8:27:12 GMT -5
I suspect Lee was referring to generic "no smoke" and suggesting that several alternatives (most cheaper) will do the job. We all know about snake oil that will save our geriatric engine, or replace a ring job, but luckily rock saws are not as fickle.
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Post by Peruano on Mar 8, 2020 7:07:37 GMT -5
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Post by Peruano on Mar 7, 2020 8:00:52 GMT -5
It sounds like we have the basis for a Nelson Owners club. Who shall we put in charge of designing the license plate frames and golf shirts?
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Post by Peruano on Mar 6, 2020 10:48:03 GMT -5
I had one early in my lapidary formative years. Yes its heavy. That cast iron is vulnerable to breakage so watch how you tighten or bang on it. If I recall correctly there was no threaded lateral feed on the vice. It was a move and lock in place situation. Mine went to a friend who managed to break a critical piece of the vice and who relegated it to a shelf and death by neglect. Enjoy it; it represents a by-gone era of machinery.
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Post by Peruano on Mar 6, 2020 10:43:28 GMT -5
When you get excess spray its usually because of too much depth in the lubricant. When you get excess mist, it often is due to high temperatures (i.e. dull blade, too fast of a feed rate, stone too hard for blade and saw, or too large.) You can use a lot of things but oils are best suited and perhaps the safest of lubricants for large saws.
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Post by Peruano on Mar 4, 2020 10:45:07 GMT -5
Its been discussed before but Barranca Diamond says don't use automotive antifreeze - its toxic. and they say don't use RV antifreeze its thought to be non toxic if breathed in normal quantities, but I'm not sure the manufacturer's tester envision the misting of a rock saw. But RV antifreeze has no lubricating benefits, has a persistent odor, and clings to your hands more than mineral oil. Here is the link to the Barranca Diamond recommendations for lubricants. www.barrancadiamond.com/pdf/tec/bd_slab_saw_coolants.pdf Glycols run the gamut - and are even in the substances that may be causing problems in vape use. Not for my shop thanks.
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Post by Peruano on Mar 2, 2020 12:33:41 GMT -5
Some of the oldest warmers for dopping wax were nothing more than a metal cover over a light bulb. Bend a U-shaped piece of thin metal and position an normal incandescent bulb underneath it and you have a flat heating surface and the heat more up than down as has been mentioned. Adjust height if U or size of bulb to adjust heat.
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Post by Peruano on Mar 1, 2020 8:03:01 GMT -5
Welcome, we always need expertise and cooperative attitudes here. It may be that stomping the ground will be the way to find it.
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Post by Peruano on Feb 29, 2020 17:51:59 GMT -5
I agree the pan and hood option from Lortone allows you to adapt a good many arbors to lapidary efforts. I use this solution to add another working wheel to an old HP setup. The pan is big enough to adapt to a variety of solutions.
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Post by Peruano on Feb 28, 2020 12:54:16 GMT -5
Lets talk about the options for used grinders/polishing arbors. Grinding options come with multipler wheels or a single wheel mount. That can provide the option of a change out of wheels or an expand wheel that will accept various grits of silicon carbide belts, aluminum oxide belts, or diamond belts (listed in order of cost). Combo units are tempting (1 side for grinding and the other for the saw). But the liability is that on most the saw is running even when you are grinding or vice versa. Many grinders/arbors will come with silicon carbide wheels (nothing wrong with them when they are in good condition and managed correctly but they can get out of round, water soaked, and blow apart if damaged or severely out of balance. So if you buy a grinder with silicon carbide wheels you are probably going to change them out for diamond or expando wheels. A great entry level machine can be a two mount arbor (one side could the rough wheel (80, 100, or 180) and the other side the expando for the grits going on up the scale. In many ways, I prefer and can justify economically using diamond belts instead of novo or other types of diamond wheels. But others will have other views. One point that bears repetition is be aware that you might have to invest in new wheels on any used machine and escpecially an older one that comes with silicon carbide wheels. With a wheel costing $65 to $135 per, replacing 4 or so wheels will make that $300 - 500 grinder get expensive. Buying one expando wheel at $75 and some $3 belts and maybe one or two in the $50 to 70 range is much more along the budget entry option. Mind you I have both systems (expando arbor and nova/hard wheels) and I use them both, but if I was at the start point (I'd be flexible and use expando wheel on a simple arbor with a minimal foot print. I recently studied the cabmate by Graves. Its expensive new but if you found a used one it can offer a lot on a small scale (saw, arbor for grinding, and a flat vertical plate for polishing and other approaches. Rock Rascal model t with saw and arbor is equally flexible if funds are limited. New is a bit rough but used is much more attractive. Just my perspectives hoping to stimulate thinking for those who come to this thread expecting guidance on buy a used setup.
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