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Post by Bluesky78987 on Oct 10, 2017 10:22:20 GMT -5
nycone, look up Kris Rowe and his Rockhound Field Trip Fanatics Group. I believe they're on Facebook and also maybe have a Ning site. He does regular trips out there and is a friendly and willing guide.
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Post by Bluesky78987 on Oct 10, 2017 10:17:42 GMT -5
Hm. I'd call that mixed news! Definitely going to have to be going out there in 2018 though. Wish I could swing it right now but tooooooo busy at work.
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Post by Bluesky78987 on Oct 9, 2017 18:01:39 GMT -5
Good here. Protected by a vast sea of concrete.
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Post by Bluesky78987 on Oct 9, 2017 17:59:27 GMT -5
Don - I can't believe I missed this (ginormous) thread! That's what I get for staying out of "Life the Universe and Everything" forum. I'm so sorry to hear all this. My best to you - you are doing a great job of keeping on keeping on.
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Post by Bluesky78987 on Oct 9, 2017 17:31:06 GMT -5
Edited: Done!
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Post by Bluesky78987 on Oct 9, 2017 11:00:57 GMT -5
I guess I have to try it out. I would have thought the epoxy in the joints would hold as well as the stones. Thanks Susan Sure, no prob. Yeah, it will hold as long as you don't put any stress on it, but I broke a couple joints as I was grinding some of mine, since you do the grinding before backing it. Maybe it would hold up fine to normal use, grinding is probably more stress than hanging around somebody's neck. Especially if you're going to set it in a bezel.
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Post by Bluesky78987 on Oct 9, 2017 10:59:07 GMT -5
(Deleted post - looks like I killed the thread, soooorrry.)
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Post by Bluesky78987 on Oct 9, 2017 9:14:04 GMT -5
Pat - sure, will take some pics in a few. I've used Howlite on a couple of them. Why would they say Howlite is too soft? It works great and is cheap and readily available (especially here in CA). One piece I have Howlite next to black jade from australia next to pinolith. No undercutting problems and it's non-chippy and easy to cut match sticks from. Polishes great too. @shotgunner - You need a backing of some sort because the surface area you're gluing is too small for long term strengh. This is an exaggeration, but it's like gluing two 2x4s toghether end to end. Some of the pices are really thin (front to back of the piece). While it's strong in tension, it's weak if it were to encounter bending forces. Back it, and now your glue seam is going to resist the shearing forces of bending (as well as whatever stiffness the backing stone has).
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Post by Bluesky78987 on Oct 8, 2017 9:53:20 GMT -5
I can't see your pictures.
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Post by Bluesky78987 on Oct 8, 2017 9:52:32 GMT -5
Or, you could omit the back/middle layer, but just make sure the seams on teh back side don't line up with the seams on the front side. Offset like bricks. It would be strong enough then probably.
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Post by Bluesky78987 on Oct 8, 2017 9:51:23 GMT -5
Pat Yes, that would work too, but you wouldn't have very much glue area. It would be better than no side pieces, but I think having a back would be better. are you putting on the backing last? Thinking out loud here - I wonder if it would work to do the front construction, lap the back flat, glue on soft material, grind it really really thin on the lap (like almost see-through thin), then build your back pattern separately, lap it flat, and glue to that. This is what's fun about intarsia - you can get really creative with what you make and how you attach it. In our class, which was just a quick afternoon class, the teacher built the piece first, ground teh front flat and tidied it up, and then covered the back with steel epoxy. Which you then have to grind down flat. Essentially a backer. But messier. Lighter though. I think I'd prefer to use a proper backer.
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Post by Bluesky78987 on Oct 8, 2017 9:35:06 GMT -5
Tommy that second cab is a winner!
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Post by Bluesky78987 on Oct 8, 2017 9:25:57 GMT -5
Super beautiful all of them, but I have to go with the Burro Creek! Beautiful inclusions.
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Post by Bluesky78987 on Oct 7, 2017 10:17:18 GMT -5
Yeah that will be a huge improvement then!
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Post by Bluesky78987 on Oct 7, 2017 9:35:45 GMT -5
That's some really great material! I hope you're planning to make a cab or two!
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Post by Bluesky78987 on Oct 7, 2017 9:33:52 GMT -5
That looks really useful to flip the item down toward the front of the table. Mine doesn't allow that (I got the little green cheapie one on Amazon). If you haven't been using a vice, get ready to be soooo haaaaaapy!
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Post by Bluesky78987 on Oct 7, 2017 9:24:57 GMT -5
Hmm. I might have to try it then. Once upon a time I got a couple wheels and some 50k and 100k paste . . . but I've never even used them. That marcasite is making me want to change that however!
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Post by Bluesky78987 on Oct 6, 2017 9:33:07 GMT -5
rockjunquie, yes, the backing is for stability. Otherwise you only have a teeny tiny surface area holding your piece together. The strength of glued joints is proportional to the surface area joined. You don't always need it though, just depends on the type of construction and how it's put together. You could totally make a two sided one!
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Post by Bluesky78987 on Oct 6, 2017 9:31:00 GMT -5
I would do the back last, too. Honestly, I think you just need more practice. My son and I flat lap backs with no issues. You just need to be careful how you lay it down and pick it up. You could even just turn off the flat lap to pick it up when you are done. Yeah. The reason you do the back last is you never know which ones will "make the grade" to have their backs done! Agreed with Tela that the method of placing down and picking up, so you don't catch the edge, has a lot to do with it. Beveling the corners of the back a tiny tad probably helps too. I dop mine with dop wax. Pops off in the freezer, and any bits left can be cleaned up with denatured alcohol.
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Post by Bluesky78987 on Oct 4, 2017 10:06:52 GMT -5
Those are all stunning! I also can't stop looking at teh Peanut obsidian. The others are simply stunning as well - but then those orbs on the obsidian draw my eye back again! That material is super expensive - like, Pietersite expensive and hard to find.
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