|
Post by Peruano on May 4, 2023 9:34:17 GMT -5
I've collected Texas cherts around Bandera, TX and many of those looked similar to what you have illustrated in this thread. Sometimes an interesting fossil will turn up just to keep you collecting and polishing in hopes of more.
|
|
|
Post by Peruano on May 4, 2023 5:30:27 GMT -5
thanks! It had to be that one but curious minds wanted to see if they were missing something.
|
|
|
Post by Peruano on May 3, 2023 16:08:24 GMT -5
I'm unsure which you are calling as an agate. The little black one could be but. They are indeed interesting patterns in the cherts.
|
|
|
Post by Peruano on May 1, 2023 6:17:52 GMT -5
A video camera in the hands of someone who has something to say is an asset to the thread. Your contribution is great and appreciated.
|
|
|
Post by Peruano on Apr 30, 2023 7:42:51 GMT -5
First for blade drift. The side of the blade, not the edge, is relatively smooth and a gentle pressure from your finger can keep the blade from drifting to the side. Literally I have a hand position so I can have the rock in both hands and still extend my index finger to the side of the blade to stabilize it. If you are willing to push the stone with one hand, you can do the blade stabilization with a wooden dowel or In terms of keeping your material as even as possible you can use your rocks glued onto 2x2 stubs. Because they are flat they can be slid on your saw table and will insure a vertical cut face. For the other dimension, thickness, you can try to use a fence by clamping a guide parallel to the saw blade but this is a more tenuous issue because your trimmed slabette can become wedged between the fence and the blade unless all is perfect. Making your fence as low as possible helps to a certain extent. The real precise way to avoid the wedged fence issue is to guide your work with the other end of the wooden stub and run it against the fence on the other side of the table, but the setup for every slice would consume time (but maybe some of us have lots of time for special tasks). If the slot in you saw table is a bit wide, a thin slice will sometimes try to drop into, wedge in, or lock up the saw in the slot. To adjust for that, take an old thin plastic kitchen cutting board and run it part way through your saw to cut a slot that is much narrower and wont interfere with your blade even if you occasionally rub it and enlarge your slot. Any old piece of plastic will work for this. I know we talk about stubs glued to rocks with carpenters glue, but I will try to add a photo of some examples from my work bench. 20230310_102725 by Thomas Fritts, on Flickr The key would be to be sure that the stone did not protrude below the edge of the stub that will slide on the saw table. Some of these (the three on the left probably) might work by being flush with the edge or away from it. They were glued up for my slab saw vice and not the slide operation on the trim saw. The last slice can be soaked of with water (overnight), but soaking is fastest and most effective if the stub is sawed off leaving only a thin layer of wood for the water to penetrate.
|
|
|
Post by Peruano on Apr 30, 2023 7:22:32 GMT -5
You can make a basket out of screen wire; or buy the typical coarse meshed plastic basket that is sold for swamp cooler pumps. (if you live in the SW where we poor folks still use evaporative coolers instead of AC). If you make your own from window screening, it does not have to be a thing of beauty, nor even rigorously tightly seamed. You are just stoping big stuff. The oil you are pumping will always have fine particulates. Here is the HD offering. The white one on the right might do the trick for you. I've seen it used in drop saws. www.homedepot.com/s/hayward%20sp-4000-m%20pump%20basket?NCNI-5
|
|
|
Post by Peruano on Apr 27, 2023 9:33:33 GMT -5
Welcome bazzie, Good points. Companies should not be held responsible for customer intolerance or inexperience.
|
|
|
Post by Peruano on Apr 25, 2023 13:42:51 GMT -5
My friend and mentor who cuts a lot of quality cabs has access to nearly every kind of cab equipment is singing the praises of using arbors with an expando on each end for their versatility and results. I can say there are certain stones thar I can bring to a shine only with the expandos.
|
|
|
Post by Peruano on Apr 25, 2023 7:12:22 GMT -5
Agglomerate silicon carbide belts from Kingsley 80 - 1200 will save you enough money to afford 3M diamond for the higher grits. These new silicon belts last a long time, cut aggressively, and a one of the best bridges between old style belts and diamon alternatives (in the size range).
|
|
|
Post by Peruano on Apr 19, 2023 13:04:58 GMT -5
Let's test the thread jumping idea Wedge a wine cork or something of the correct size in the handles of your feed pliers. You want to prevent them from flexing open when the vice sled hits resistance . I have an older covington with slightly larger pliers but regularly lock the grip on the drive shaft with a cork wedged in the pliers. Weak spring or shallow threads. Query me if this is not clear .Tom
|
|
|
Post by Peruano on Apr 18, 2023 14:32:10 GMT -5
What you are describing is a situation that occurs only when the blade contacts tough stuff. If the blade is shoved against something it does not want to cut, its bound to protest. Or if something is shoved against it at a wrong or moving angle its likely to protest too. You have to decide. The blade depicted in front of the other appears to have a flat contour (maybe a visual distortion?). If you can afford an Agate Eater, buy it. I have its analogue MK225 that has run on my 12" saw for several years cutting agates all day long. I also run 303's on my HP 14". I have an old 20"Covington but used a new covington with the trick slip clutch at our local senior center with much tooth gnashing.
|
|
|
Post by Peruano on Apr 18, 2023 5:59:00 GMT -5
I'd still vote for the blade being you issue. All the Covington problems I've seen hinged on the combination of the finicky adjustable clutch for the feed screw and in conjunction a blade that was sufficiently worn to cause the feed to be faster than the cut, which caused the clutch to act up. If you have that special Covington clutch check it, and then think about trying to resurrect or replace the blade. A bit of vice give should not be lethal unless your feed is too fast or your blade is too dull. It seems to me that a bit of pressure on the work will move the vice to its "desired" position and it should stay there unless the whole shibang meets resistance (slow cut/too fast feed/clutch surging). There are many factors affecting slab saw performance and you have to carefully evaluate them before seeking expensive unproven fixes (new vice or bearings or blades). Try cutting something soft - same issues? Try clutch adjustment?
|
|
|
Post by Peruano on Apr 13, 2023 6:44:00 GMT -5
Rockoonz Thanks for the heads up. The machine still lives in the corner of my garage. It was completely reassembled but the motor available was shot. It awaits a replacment motor or a buyer who wants to install his own. I installed standard 8" Novas and hard diamon wheels. No special arbor diameter needed. PM me if you have specific questions. Tom
|
|
|
Post by Peruano on Apr 8, 2023 13:18:15 GMT -5
Congratulations. It's always nice to achieve a better work situation. I installed a powerful exhaust fan in my shop when I built it, but rarely feel that I need to use it even when running three slab saws or doing misc. trimming. I've even been known to open my slab saw soon after it was shut off, but it's for a quick grab of the slab and the top is closed again. Sawing rocks is just about as much fun any other part of lapidary.
|
|
|
Post by Peruano on Apr 3, 2023 6:47:51 GMT -5
Sometimes that oil coming out of otherwise good condition saws is just from overfilling them. If I recall correctly mineral oil is not a conductor so. . . it shouldn't be a problem in and around electrical connections except for the "mess". I know the switch on my trim saw sees a fair amount of oil and glick but has never acted up with periodic wipedowns.
|
|
|
Post by Peruano on Apr 2, 2023 12:22:34 GMT -5
I bought a 10" Raytech that someone defeated its best feature by cutting a drain hole in the plastic sump and the saw frame. I guess they wanted it to be a awkward as eveyone else's saw. Raytech's small saws are well designed and good buys when found in the used state.
|
|
|
Post by Peruano on Apr 2, 2023 12:16:24 GMT -5
A friend says go to 50,000 diamond belt at slow speed. but it is variable.
|
|
|
Post by Peruano on Apr 2, 2023 10:38:54 GMT -5
Cap too tight? solvable. got to be solvable. Try removing cushioning under the machine.
|
|
|
Post by Peruano on Apr 1, 2023 9:08:40 GMT -5
Super interesting stuff. I particularly like the use of the white stones. I was first drawn to tumbling and lapidary when attracted to the patterns possible with uniform ovals and discs of white shells available in abundance. Ditto, I work with opalized wood that resembles your examples. Welcome and thanks for the photos.
|
|
|
Post by Peruano on Apr 1, 2023 6:29:09 GMT -5
Garnet Schist ?
|
|